Spare Tire Modifications (1 Viewer)

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I dropped the spare tire this pm to re-install the rear stabilizer bar. I inspected the “new” marks on the tire.
I found that the spare tire is hitting the sheet metal that makes up the upper part of the factory bumper. There’s a sheet metal reinforcement around the crank handle area that made contact with my tire, although it didn’t cut the tire in the two days it was hanging, I think over a period of time could do some damage to the spare.

After reinstalling the bar I raised the tire back in place and shook it to see how snug it was. There is still a small amount of movement in the tire.
After further inspection I noticed that there is about 1/4 in between the cross member & tire. On the original setup, the tire is allowed to come in contact and help keep the tire stabilized.

I think I’ll cut a new set on the lathe at 11/4 and re-mount, in hopes of getting a rock solid mount.
I’m not sure if this is a problem with all tire sizes. But probably should be looked into IMO.

Greg B, can you check to see if you are snug with the cross member? I’m curious to see if this is has something to do with tire size.
If there’s a space, and if you like, I’ll cut you a new set and send them. LMK
DMX
 
If your winch is the same as on an 80, you can space the winch down with longer bolts and washers and change its angle to bring its position relative to the crank slot back to stock. The practical limit on an 80 is about 1.5" higher crossmember and a compensating 1.5" lower winch.

The first post with hollow pipes as spacers scares me. Think about the shear force on those long bolts when you make a sudden stop with wobbly narrow spacers. I'm still looking for a spacer material that I really like.
 
There is now way that is an issue on the 100, maybe on an 80. The size of the tire will limit any travel, and there is not enough room with even a stock tire to allow the cross member to shear off the bolts. Also FWIW, the tire will shift on the cable it hangs on, therefore eliminating 90% of all force applied to the bolts.
I used schedule 80 pipe 1/2 in dia. The bolt hole is the proper size making it a lot stronger, but again not an issue using the 1/2in pipe either.
DMX


Mike, I reread your post. If you lower the winch down with spacers, that would make it weaker than the set up we’ve done. Because a sudden stop will shift the tire forward, putting all the load on the extended winch bolts. I haven’t seen an 80 to make a qualified statement, but if it’s like the 100, it wouldn’t be an issue, as the swaybar will limit any forward travel. There’s not much room on the rear either (in case you’re wondering).
The only place of significant movement is on the sides. To obtain the force needed to shear off the bolts, losing the spare will be the least of you worries.
DMX
 
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DMX84 said:
There is now way that is an issue on the 100, maybe on an 80. The size of the tire will limit any travel, and there is not enough room with even a stock tire to allow the cross member to shear off the bolts. Also FWIW, the tire will shift on the cable it hangs on, therefore eliminating 90% of all force applied to the bolts.
I used schedule 80 pipe 1/2 in dia. The bolt hole is the proper size making it a lot stronger, but again not an issue using the 1/2in pipe either.
DMX


Mike, I reread your post. If you lower the winch down with spacers, that would make it weaker than the set up we’ve done. Because a sudden stop will shift the tire forward, putting all the load on the extended winch bolts. I haven’t seen an 80 to make a qualified statement, but if it’s like the 100, it wouldn’t be an issue, as the swaybar will limit any forward travel. There’s not much room on the rear either (in case you’re wondering).
The only place of significant movement is on the sides. To obtain the force needed to shear off the bolts, losing the spare will be the least of you worries.
DMX

FWIW The 80's cross member uses 6 bolts to mount with more room above it then the 100. A lot of 80 guy have used pipe with not problems. Even with 4 bolts I dont see a problem with pipe. I was going to use pipe but I found some 1 1/2x1 1/2 alm spacers when I was looking for the pipe.:D I figure it the bolts shear I have bigger problems then the spare.
 
DMX84 said:
Greg B, can you check to see if you are snug with the cross member? I’m curious to see if this is has something to do with tire size.
If there’s a space, and if you like, I’ll cut you a new set and send them. LMK
DMX

DMX,

I would love to check for you, but I'm out of town until Thursday night with a rental car. I'll check on Friday and post back.
 
Cool.

Rental car? Drive it like you stole it.
 
Looking at raising my spare in the rear and even though it's been almost 8 years since the last post, this was the best thread I could find on the subject. I was playing in the snow this weekend and my 285 hanging down acted as a plow, especially while in reverse. There were a few times it had me stuck until I got out and shoveled the snow away.

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Any new thought's on this mod?

Anything anyone's done recently to improve upon this mod?


Thanks in advance for any ideas.

:cheers:

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I did a simplified version of this.

I flipped the front bracket upside down. I removed the rear bar that others were angling.

I bought 4x 1" longer bolts and 4x 1" chrome spacers from Home Depot and removed my trailer hitch.

Now my 295/75/16 spare fits without issue and it's tucked up about the same as the 255/85/16 spare tire on PaulGardner's truck. There is also still enough clearance to work the spare tire pulley as usual. Much higher and you'll have a heck of a time trying to slip the spare tire tool between the frame and tire.
 
I did exactly what Klaus said and it raised the spare nicely

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I thought about doing this mod on my 2004, only to find out the charcoal canister apparatus (CA smog equipment) occupies this space above the spare tire. I think it was moved from under-the-hood to above the spare tire in model year 2003? Has anyone attempted to relocate the charcoal canister?
 
I thought about doing this mod on my 2004, only to find out the charcoal canister apparatus (CA smog equipment) occupies this space above the spare tire. I think it was moved from under-the-hood to above the spare tire in model year 2003? Has anyone attempted to relocate the charcoal canister?

Just see how much clearance there is. There is probably enough room to lift it an inch.

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No I don't leave that shackle on all the time. And I've since moved that valve.
 
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This is a great thread! I wonder if there is any aftermarket mounting options other than under the vehicle for stock bumpers. Or bumpers without swings on them.
 
I looked into doing this mod' and was also thwarted by the charcoal canister. Anyone know which 100s got that setup?
 
Had one of those rare days without too much on my ‘Honey Do’ list. Decided I’d do the Spare Tire Lift Mod on the LX470. Turns out it was worthwhile and very little effort for the return.

I can’t even see my spare now (just walking around vehicle). If I bend down I can see it….but the mod (1-1/2” lift) gets a stock size tire up enough that its actually worth the time to do this.

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Not much material needed. Just decide what you want to use as ‘spacers’. I’m sure there are a dozen or more suitable ways to do this. I chose some steel spacers I found at Lowes and inserted them inside some sprinkler system ‘riser’ material that was a good fit. Washers on both ends to cap it all off, good to go.

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Continued next post:
 
I did find it necessary to enlarge one set of holes in the rear contact rod in order to shim it out and still have the bolts line up.

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And I spaced the winch down about 3/8” to ensure the spare tire let down tool would easily find its way into the slot in the winch.

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Easy ‘Mod’ to do, just follow the instructions laid out in the original post of this thread. I know an 1-1/2” doesn’t sound like much…..but it definitely looks better and is bound to offer more protection for the tire of a daily driver.

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Not sure it is worth it for serious off-road work (probably better to just remove the tire there).
 
Followed @flintknapper's steel spacer/sprinkler riser method to raise my oversized spare (285/75/16). Spaced the winch down for better angle. Flipped front bracket, shimmed rear bracket ~3/8" like others have done. Did not have to enlarge any holes. Tire is snug, and tool goes in and out with ease. The spare used to sit very low, about 1-1.5" down below the hitch. Now it is about in line if not slightly higher than lowest point on the hitch.

I tried removing the rear bracket entirely to get it up even higher, but it seems to be an integral part of the system. With the rear bracket out, the tire would keep cranking up until I couldn't get the tool out. If I left enough room to get the tool out, then the tire was not secure.

Great mod! Thank you for the terrific pictures!
 
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For the 2003+ guys with the charcoal canister underneath...

I have a 2004 LC so your mileage may vary but I did want to get my spare tucked up as high as I could until a rear bumper is in the cards. The main obstacle for me was one rivet bolt that extended far past the nut. It would hit the canister before the crossmember would, so I took my dremmel with a cut off wheel and cut the rivet down to the bolt.

This allowed me to move the crossmember up about an inch or so. This picture makes it look like the crossmember is touching the canister but its about 1/8" or so off.
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I flipped the front bracket and spaced the back bracket just like the original OP did.

50 5/16" spacers ended up being the perfect amount for me. 11 spacers for each of the 4 crossmember bolts and the remaining 6 used on the rear bracket to angle it up. I believe I used 40mm length bolts instead of 60 like the 1.5" guys are using.

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Doesn't look like much but it got my 275/70r18 just above the lowest point of my hitch. A side benefit has also been it got my spare tire off the panhard bar. Like many with this tire size, mine was starting to rub the paint off the panhard. Now its about 3/4" off of it.
 

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