SOA question? (1 Viewer)

[74bogger]

thanks but the highangl website is about rockclimbing and not highangle drivline ???


also if i wanted to point my pinion to te t-case on both the front and back, i would have to get a doublecardan or a cv but not on the front because it will be unlocked until i go 4-wheelin?

 

[woody]

[quote author=74bogger link=board=1;threadid=4139;start=0#msg30829 date=1060266566]
thanks but the highangl website is about rockclimbing and not highangle drivline ???[/quote]
oops - http://www.highangledriveline.com/

also if i wanted to point my pinion to te t-case on both the front and back, i would have to get a doublecardan or a cv but not on the front because it will be unlocked until i go 4-wheelin?

you "should" run it in the rear since the vibrations on the road will accellerate wear. Offroad, and locked in, it's not as critical since the speed is so slow.

However, I ran a non-CV rear shaft for 3 years with no problems...the CV definitely smoothed it tho.

 

[74bogger]

ok thanks

 

[rusmannx]

wow this is getting confusing.
this is what i want to do.

1. spring it over
2. cut and turn knuckles on front axle to some degree (i assume this is to make my pinion parallel to my tcase output shaft)
3. do i have to rotate the rear axle?
4. i'm not doing a shackle reversal.

5. what do i do to the front shaft?
6. what do i do to the rear shaft?

 

[woody]

what I did...

cut/turn front knuckles, about 15 degrees. 12 degrees up for the pinion, pointed straight at the t-case output, 3 degrees back for caster for better tracking with large tires. This is set per where you weld perches on after you've cut-turned everything.

shackle reversal, recessed shackle sleeve into the frame for less height. Shackles are about 1" over stock.

Rear axle points straight at the t-case output....ran NO CV shaft for the first 3 years, then switched to a minitruck CV for the past 2. No problems either way, but definitely smoother at road speeds with the CV. (but, for <200 miles of road time a year, who cares....)

Front shaft has NO CV, and likely never will, but since the pinion points straight at the t-case, it technically should. For trail use, who cares. For road, keep it in 2wd and unlock the hubs and you'll never know.

I've yet to see two identically setup SOA's....there are TOO many variations and ideas out there.

 

[rusmannx]

so if i set the pinion and output shaft at parallel i wouldn't need any special joints?

 

[woody]

[quote author=rusmannx link=board=1;threadid=4139;start=0#msg30917 date=1060289186]
so if i set the pinion and output shaft at parallel i wouldn't need any special joints?
[/quote]

correct...if you've read thru the tech stuff on 4xshaft.com, it has great info on setting as parallel....just use a cheap $10 angle finder from your local hardware store.

CORECTION: it's not "parallel"...if the pinion tips up 3 degrees, the t-case must tip down 3 degrees. the key is keeping the joints at the same operating angle to eliminate vibration.

 

[74bogger]

but if i did that then wouldn my u-joints bind?

 

[hammerhead]

[quote author=hammerhead link=board=1;threadid=4139;start=0#msg30677 date=1060187624]
I SOAd my 74 with the old "saggy" stock springs and love it. In theory your plan will work. Your steering angles will come out correct but you will have the same problem I did. Your U-joints will bind. You will have to "clearance" the yokes to achieve angles past there design limits. It worked on mine but it is absolutely not the most desireable method. I am going to redo mine using the "cut and turn" method where the steering knuckles are cut loose and rewelded at the proper angle after the pinion is rolled up to match driveline angle.
[/quote]
Wardens used to do it right on the truck. They would drop one end of the spring, roll the axle out, reattach spring. With axle out of truck remove all brackets, perches, and mounts. U-bolt the axle loosely into the desired location aligning locator pins. Roll axle to aim at t-case output. You can even install driveshaft to check that pinion is exacly in line with shaft. During this stage you should put the weight of the rig back on the axles when checking to insure proper alignment of pinion and shaft. When you are sure you have it right, tack the perches in place, and measure angle of pinion drive flange. Remove axle, weld perches, cut knuckles loose, rotate ends to measured angle plus 3 or 4 degrees to get steering angles correct. Again, check your work by reinstalling axle in vehicle and check steering angle with weight on springs. If correct, remove axle and weld completely. Reinstall axle, install and weld shock mounts, brakeline brkts, etc. Thats the front. Rear is much easier.

 

[74bogger]

ok lets say that i bolt the axle under the spring with the new perches just like it would be if sprung over. After i set the pinion pointing at the t-case flange, i cut the knuckles loose. then i turn the knuckles back towards the rear. how many degrees past 90 do i go?? ???

 

[hammerhead]

Woody says he likes 3 degrees back from vertical and he runs 38.5" tires. I have mine at 4 degrees back (if I remember correctly) and I'm running 35s.

 

[woody]

actually, 3 degrees more than stock, so 4 degrees total.

 

[74bogger]

so what your saying is that the stock caster is 1 degree back from vertical(i dont know the "termanology") and you rotated your 3 degrees bakwardfrom that? ???

 

[woody]

exactly.

was searching thru some old posts...realize I had posted mine at +3 caster, but a recent measurement showed it at +4...guess some of the front susp tweaks I've made adjusted it...hehehe

 

[74bogger]

that drawing clears it up for me ALOT thanks man

 

[rusmannx]

pictures of this would be great. you guys are talking about angles but from what origin?
if any of you have pictures you could draw over and post, it would help i think.

 

[hendo]

itried to do it ,man never again, the axle is in the shop now . my advise is let a pro do it , unless you have a axle jig and angle finder you,ll still have a hard time let apro do it for about $200 at least you,l know your wheel would fall of at 70mph as its not as simple as it may sound,and cutting the tubes of your axle and not to cut your slieve is pritty dearing if you dont know what your doing

 

[hammerhead]

If you have a toothache you go to the dentist. For surgery, a surgeon. For welding, a professional welder like myself. Dang, I wish I could get more of the fun stuff like that. Instead it's some granny's broken porch swing or a hammered to death backhoe repair. Yuck! Ptooey!