Slee castor plates or bushing (1 Viewer)

[4runnin2]

I'm going to be installing my lift kit this week while the weather is still warm and I have the 4 days off. Lx450 with 850j/863. I have the springs, shocks and steering damper at the house ready to install. I need to order the drops for the sway bars still and whichever you guys think would be best for the castor correction. I do have a short bus front bumper and 9k winch mounted to the front and plan on adding sliders before spring. I probably won't do any armor or bumper for the rear until I think I really need it. Any suggestions on the castor correction? From what I have been reading, this kit should set pretty level which is what I want.

 

[mercedeezel]

i'd go with plates for J springs. To me, it's easier to install the plates vs. the process of replacing bushings. I ran the TJM version of the J springs with Slee plates and experienced no issues.

 

[jfz80]

personally id go plates..... gives you a bit more correction than even his black bushings and i dont ever hear about having too much castor.

I ran the Jsprings with yellow bushings and it was not near enough correction. blues or blacks might have added 1-2* but not worth the install hassle if it wasnt enough. I went OEM bushings and plates and have been happy

 

[bajaphile]

I haven't seen many people opting for bushings lately. Plates are like so hot right now.

 

[Saddletramp]

Same lift as you are about to install, go with the plates.

 

[4runnin2]

Awesome, thanks guys!

 

[skhochay]

I'm going to be installing my lift kit this week while the weather is still warm and I have the 4 days off. Lx450 with 850j/863. I have the springs, shocks and steering damper at the house ready to install. I need to order the drops for the sway bars still and whichever you guys think would be best for the castor correction. I do have a short bus front bumper and 9k winch mounted to the front and plan on adding sliders before spring. I probably won't do any armor or bumper for the rear until I think I really need it. Any suggestions on the castor correction? From what I have been reading, this kit should set pretty level which is what I want.

if you have 2" suspension lift you do not need any castor corrections alignment in the spec if you install it then you will be 2* off to the back in addition if you do install castor correction you need a front cardan shaft double yoke or the rig will vibrate and overtime will kill transfercase front bearing, not bsing you, speaking from the experience.

 

[4runnin2]

Interesting, it seems like most people don't do the front drive shaft. Could it be that if you are not loaded down in the front that the lack of weight let's the spring stand taller causing more of an issue with the caster and causes the vibration in the shaft. Im not opposed to buying a new front driveshaft just curious. I have stock height ome springs installed now with a 30mm spacer in the front and no spacer in the rear. Once I installed my bumper and winch the front dropped a little over an inch. Right now I am setting about 1/2" lower in the front.

 

[surfpig]

Same lift as you are about to install, go with the plates.

YUP

 

[jfz80]

wow thats stock heigh OME with 30mm spacer? 285/33s? that looks great!



and regarding above comment each truck is different.... and the J spring is much more than 2'' of lift.
Ive run it for years with no double cardan and no vibes albeit the castor was under spec. Now with the plates and 4'' front spring bumper winch i still run a stock shaft sans problems

 

[Heckraiser]

I have a 2.5" OME lift and I find the yellow bushings insufficient. Will be upgrading to plates when I get around to it. Really no such thing as too much positive caster until you get up into the 7* plus range, in terms of handling and tire wear anyway. I'd rather have the truck stable on the highway and then address the driveline as needed than set it up for mediocre handling and not have to spend any money on a driveshaft... and I'm a cheap-ass.

Every leaf-sprung truck I have owned, I have always shot for about 4* positive caster for good road manners. The 80 front end design makes that a bit more of a challenge, but that's still where I'd like to be. As @RMP&O would say, cut and turn is the old-school way of doing it, but ultimately the best way to get the perfect caster and pinion angle all at the same time

 

[4runnin2]

Saddletramp,surfpig. Do either of you have front weight and a dc driveshaft?

 

[baldilocks]

850J and slee plates was the first combo I ever installed on my 80. It drove great but I was forced to go to a DC front shaft because of the same reason already mentioned. Hey, it's only money and when the s*** hits the fan around here a well appointed 80 will be a valuable asset.

 

[jwilliams]

I did OME full heavy lift with 30mm MAF front spacers. DC front shaft. I went with plates. I am right on at 3.2 and 3.3 degrees.
Stance is perfect for my taste.

 

[bajaphile]

I am running J coil + 1" spacer up front with winch and metaltech bumper. I am using MAF (Frame side) drop brackets and a DC front drive shaft due to vibes.

 

[SHREDwagon]

Another vote for plates or drop brackets: CC bushings don't last. On my third set now….

Edit: I'm pricing cut and turn locally going forward.

 

[retrofive]

Plates w/ J's. /thread

 

[surfpig]

Saddletramp,surfpig. Do either of you have front weight and a dc driveshaft?

Custom bumper in front, so a little extra weight. Stock drive shaft.

 

[4runnin2]

Guess I'll install and see how it drives as far as the driveshaft. I think the consensus is definitely plates.

 

[OGBeno]

Bushings all the way as a stop gap.

Correctly "correcting" caster is either with arms or cutting and turning.

Plates eventually destroy the control arm brackets on the axle.