shakey sideview mirror FIX

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by Cruiser Jimmy, Mar 9, 2006.

  1. Cruiser Jimmy

    Cruiser Jimmy SILVER Star

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    Title speaks for itself

    First, from inside the car use the up button to point the mirror to the sky.
    (the first pic show the finished product. I used this pic to illustrate the hanging points)

    Take the mirror out of the housing.
    Very simple, there's one philips screw on the bottem side of the mirror housing.
    With you fingers on the bottom parts of the mirror assembly lightly push up on the mirror and work it out.

    Disconnect the three elec. wires.

    Next, spearate the two halves of the mirrors by pressing the hold pin out. See pic three.
    DSCF1032.JPG DSCF1019.JPG DSCF1033.JPG
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2006
  2. TiredIronGRB

    TiredIronGRB

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    I put a little dab of clear silicone on either side of mine.
  3. Cruiser Jimmy

    Cruiser Jimmy SILVER Star

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    Next, use something that will take the dirt and grease away from the mirror. I used Damn and hot water.

    Next, git to the auto parts store and buy some JB Weld. Note, if the mirror is not free from dirt and grease you'll end up doing this again.

    Mix the JB weld 1:1 ratio.

    Next, use something in the house to build a platform to give the broken bracket some form.
    DSCF1027.JPG DSCF1028.JPG DSCF1030.JPG
  4. Cruiser Jimmy

    Cruiser Jimmy SILVER Star

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    Next,

    Clean off the excess material with a file or dremel tool to form the general outline of the new bracket. I personally took a short cut and used a miter saw, very quick work.

    Next line up the best you can and follow the line from the other bracket holder. Use that as a reference point. Then start the first whole with a drill. Try to get the same sharp as the other one. Too much under or over the general line and the mirror will shake again or it'll be too tight and you'll break the new bracket.

    Finally, reattach the two halves of the mirror. The best method I found was a knife to elevate the holding arm up. Once you get it up work the pin back in it's home location.

    Last pic are all the tools I used.
    DSCF1031.JPG DSCF1033.JPG DSCF1034.jpg
  5. Cool writeup. How do I R&R a passenger mirror? I hope to have it on Monday and may not have my manual yet but I'd like to do the swap as soon as I can. Thanks.
  6. Cruiser Jimmy

    Cruiser Jimmy SILVER Star

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    one more thing.

    In the center you'll see the fulcrum of the mirror. On the X and Y axis are two pivot points about 1" from the center.

    These pivot points have tiny locators and they only go in one way. They're designed to turn, so adjust the points to the fulcrum prior to reassembly.

    Good Luck
    DSCF1020.JPG
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2006
  7. Cruiser Jimmy

    Cruiser Jimmy SILVER Star

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    The mirrors are symmetic in design, so same procedure to remove the mirror as the left.
  8. firetruck41

    firetruck41

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    Camas, WA USA
    MMMMMM... Grovestand, not from concentrate is the best! (Except fresh squeezed, of course).

    Hijack over, continue! :D
  9. dclee

    dclee

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Left Coast, USA
    Excellent writeup!

    I don't have pics, but I took a slightly different approach. I bent a piece of coat hanger (nice thick wire) into the shape of the hook. Then drilled two holes into the area on the mirror where the hook/ear used to be, one on top, one on the bottom. Dropped some JB Weld in the holes. Then inserted the new coat hanger "hook" into the holes to form a new hook/ear assembly.

    Been rock solid after two years. However, now it's my center screw underneath that's the problem, it's split open the hole where it screws in...
  10. Cruiser Jimmy

    Cruiser Jimmy SILVER Star

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    Fire-
    I'm a Florida boy, I know no other outside of fresh squeezed.:grinpimp:

    dclee
    Very cool approach.

    I wonder if you could line the screw hole with something to give it some strenght. Then maybe take your coat hanger idea: wrap a coat hanger in a circle, place it around the outside edge and JD weld it.
    Last edited: Mar 10, 2006
  11. Dusty

    Dusty

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    2,569
    nice write up

  12. Ted44

    Ted44

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    Location:
    Charlottesville, VA, USA
    The problem with the bottom hole is that it is usually cracked from overtightening. The cheezy little plastic loops break and someone (like me and my trucks PO) tries to stop the vibration by tightening the bottom screw.

    Mine was split, so I notched its circumference and squirted some Super Glue in the crack, then used some fine stainless wire and twisted it closed. Then I RTVed the loop mount points, stuck the assembly on there and put the bottom screw back in with care not to overtighten. Doing fine since last August.

    Jklubens, your fix for the loops is sweet. When my cobbled fix fails I'll try it.
  13. XXXR

    XXXR

    Messages:
    222
    Location:
    Santa Cruz, California
    Hilarious! I thought I was the only one with the broken tab... guess its a free OEM from the factory.

    I used double sided 3M super molding tape. This procedure looks more permanent, so I'm gonna give it a go. JB Weld... the next best thing to owning a hammer.

    THANKS!
  14. tech_dog

    tech_dog

    Messages:
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    Location:
    San Diego
    I've got the same thing, and drove in this morning annoyed by my shaking mirrors. Your timing is perfect.

    If someone was going to use a new part instead of repairing the tabs, how much of a part has to be ordered? I'm guessing it would require replacement of the entire mechanism, probably $150 or so, but it sure would be nice if you could just order a new plastic backing or something.

    Can CDan or some other parts guy confirm the minimal parts this would require, along with cost ?

    Nice write up. Thanks.
  15. dclee

    dclee

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    Location:
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    Anyway to get a small rivnut or wellnut in there? Then at least you relieve some of the pressure of the mounting screw by actually using a bolt to tighten on the nut, rather than the plastic of the housing itself. IOW, the force is now directed downward instead of rotationally side to side on the housing (which causes the split to begin with).
  16. dclee

    dclee

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Left Coast, USA

    I checked once and you have to buy to whole mirror assembly. Already painted, I think it was something like the $150 you mentioned.
  17. Ted44

    Ted44

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    Location:
    Charlottesville, VA, USA
    Jklubens' write up should be part of the FAQ.
  18. Romer

    Romer fatherofdaughterofromer Moderator

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    Done
  19. Cruiser Jimmy

    Cruiser Jimmy SILVER Star

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    Here's what the other half of the mirror looks like.

    The metal shaft coming out of the mirror is attached to a [like] ball joint. Thus the fulcrum for the axis.

    Thanks for making an FAQ. I hope this help someone out.
    DSCF1024.JPG
  20. tech_dog

    tech_dog

    Messages:
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    Location:
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    I used a plastic mastic that worked great. It was a couple of bucks at home depot and had the consistency of playdough. I shaped it with my fingers and made the mounting holes with a small straw, and it looks amazingly close to the original shape without any grinding or filing.

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