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Saginaw power steering...

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by MARKUS118, Jan 31, 2003.

  1. MARKUS118

    MARKUS118

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    To all that can help....
    (on a 1980 fj40)
    When mounting the steering box
    to the plate-what do you use for measurement? Should
    the holes for the steering box be drilled out before
    the plate is welded? I'm getting ready to take the
    old steering apart so I can get this conversion done
    before summer.
    Can the
    regular fj40 ends be used to save money? On the drag link, is this going to be custom? &nbsp:Did you
    use your old drag link?
    On the pitman arm, I have a
    four inch lift now so I want to make sure I get the
    correct one for the steering box and adjustment in
    lift.
    If I purchase the flaming river steering shaft from
    advanced adaptors, is it already the correct length?
    Will it work with the napa u-joints and slip yokes? What about just ordering a kit from advanced adaptors? I found a professional welder here in Pittsburg that
    will do the welding so I am going to do the rest
    myself! I'm just a little worried about screwing
    something up while attempting this conversion. I just
    want to be able to drive my rig again!! Thanks for
    taking the time to help answer all of my questions!!!
     
  2. Gumby

    Gumby Supamod Staff Member s-Moderator

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  3. PHAT MAX

    PHAT MAX

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    hey gumby, how do you like the astro box, and what is the difference?
     
  4. Gumby

    Gumby Supamod Staff Member s-Moderator

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    I like the Astro box a lot. It's a little stiffer than the car sag box I had. it's a tight fit, but it does not hang out in front of the crossmember. I like not having to have a big hole in my frame and it moves the pitman arm futher back. A Scout would probably be even better, but they are pretty hard to find around here.
     
  5. rocrawler

    rocrawler

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    I did a Scout PS conversion so I can't help you there. When I did mine I went straight to Flaming River's web sight and ordered from them . Why pay the middle man their cut? ;)
     
  6. Cruiser4Randy

    Cruiser4Randy

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    I finished my Saginaw conversion about 3 months ago and am very pleased with the outcome. About one year ago I was in the exact postition that you find yourself in today. I went searching out the parts found that TPI had the most complete kit at the best price. Their kit included a borgeson shaft with needle bearing u-joints, mounting plate with mounting bolts, drag link and SAE rod end. They also offer the drop pitman arm, bearing for steering shaft, and other parts. The box mount is the cast version that does not require running the bolts through the frame horn. You do need to gring out some areas to allow for easier access to the bolt heads. From experience I found that piecing together all of the parts costs almost as much as a complete kit from a company such as TPI. The end result has been awesome. I would agree also with all of those who recommend using a certified welder. Welding this mount requires skill and knowledge as you will be welding dis-similar metals and your life will depend on the welds holding. Check out TPI at : http://www.tpilandcruiser.com/lc1.htm .

    Hope this helps
    Randy
     
  7. MARKUS118

    MARKUS118

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    Randy,
    Is there any different strength issues with the steering gear box mount? Wouldn't it be better to go throught the frame rail? Also, all i need to order is the kit if I already have the box and pump? Do I need anything else? Thanks for the reply!
    Markus
     
  8. theo

    theo

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    Mark. If you email me I'll send you some comments on my Saginaw conversion.

    ps - don't tell Woody about this.  ;) He might ask for a technical writeup or something and it's not really worthy. Mainly just a description of how I copied the guys that reallly know their stuff. :D
     
  9. woody

    woody Internet Fireman Staff Member

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    would I do that? heh heh

    <now, where is that "temporary ban" button? lol>