Ryan's 4-Runner Projects (2 Viewers)

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Joined
Mar 18, 2009
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Location
Augusta, GA
...instead of nerf bars.

So why not build some you ask? OK. I have that old piece of channel that was too heavy to bend for a bumper, so why not?

Many pictures, none of quality.

112" scrap shelving channel.
PIXI2011-11-26-141518.jpg


Marked mid point.
PIXI2011-11-26-141557.jpg


60 grit flapper is great for taking off paint.
PIXI2011-11-26-143349.jpg


If I turn the plasma up high enough to cut this, I pop the breaker...back to the grinder...
PIXI2011-11-26-143502.jpg


This has to go...
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That's better.
PIXI2011-11-26-151030.jpg


Capped the cut ends.
PIXI2011-11-26-203101.jpg


Starting to be something.
PIXI2011-11-27-184537.jpg


Measured out and marked locations for square tubing.
PIXI2011-11-29-170753.jpg


Maybe the plasma cutter can do this...if I work it just right and put a new tip on it.
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This stuff is pretty heavy.
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Tacked on some tube.
PIXI2011-11-29-193308.jpg



So, I still have a little ways to go, but I think it will turn out alright and be pretty strong with gusseting. I am going to size up one side with just two pieces of tube to make sure everything looks right. The front tube on each side will need to be longer to match the shape of the frame. Once I match it all up, I can make measurements and finish it all up. Problem is that it gets dark before I get home from work, so I really don't have good light to do anything outside and I don't have room to bring the truck in and work around it.

Total cost on completion will be around $50, including consumables.
 
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:clap: more cutting and welding less pictures J/K (we all like pictures)
I not making any progress on my projects because it is dark when I get home also. The sliders on my silver truck are 2 3/8" pup joints that i caped off LOL
I actually made them tuck to close to the sheet metal to really do any good of protecting the doors or extra cab section.
How many inches are yours going to stick out?
I like the the way you are going with this. Like you said gusseting will help make it strong. Are you going to completely box it in so the bottom slides over the rocks or are you going to leave it open?
 
These are going to stick out 12" from the frame which is where the nerfs are now. They have done a good job at protection the sheet metal, so I'm going to stick with it. I'm not going to completely box them in, unless they start getting hung up often. Then, I may box them, or I may leave it open with some flat stock on the bottom side.

I plan on moving to bumpers and a tire carrier next, then tube fenders to tie it all together. Any leftovers will go to making shock mounts and maybe boxing this in.
 
Looks good Ryan. I was going to ask the same about boxing them in. Looks like you might get hung up on stuff if you leave them as they are.

Wish I had those kinds of skills.[/QUOTE


lookin good Ryan :bounce::bounce2:

second Mikes opinion box em:)
 
There's no "skill" involved. Otherwise I would be doing this for someone else, lol.
 
Nice work Ryan glad to see someones getting some wrenching time in :cheers: I agree with the others on boxing them in in my experience if theres a chance you can get hung up there it will happen :meh:
 
I agree with boxing them in as well. Since that stuff is so thick, I would orient the channel like you have it in the last picture and box in the top of it with a lighter gauge steel or even expanded metal for the step. Just a thought. Keep it up, I love seeing home brew mods!:cheers:
 
I agree with boxing them in as well. Since that stuff is so thick, I would orient the channel like you have it in the last picture and box in the top of it with a lighter gauge steel or even expanded metal for the step. Just a thought. Keep it up, I love seeing home brew mods!:cheers:

Not a bad idea. I could do that with some diamond plate...
 
Yup, you would have to rivet or screw it in place unless the diamond plate is steel, but that is definitely an option.
 
Yeah, it would be steel. Unless it comes in other flavors? The steel stuff is expensive, even for 1/8"!
 
Yea I guess when I think diamond plate, I think aluminum. Like on truck tool boxes and tub corners. Just put some thin slick iron and sprinkle an aggregate like sand on the top while your painting to give you some grip.
 
I'm looking at the sizes and prices on what I can get from my local supplier. In order to use diamond plate and not have to patch pieces together, I would have to buy a 4'x8' 1/8" piece. Price for that sheet is $169...kinda defeats the purpose of this. However, I could use the extra on another project.
 
Put them on and try it out, if you see were they hang up then box them in.
Get a cheap tool box from sales ad for the aluminum plate.
 
I did some more tonight.

Stacked up some stuff to get it up to the frame and do some more measuring. Here is where it will be. It looks like it is pretty far out there in the pictures, but looks better in person. It is about 1" short of sticking out as far as the tires. I'm going with Lance's suggestion of mounting them with the heavy metal down and making the top a step. I took these as soon as I got home, just to show you how dark it is at 5pm.

PIXI2011-12-01-165829.jpg


PIXI2011-12-01-165837.jpg


With more accurate measurements, I moved on to tacking the rest of the square tubing in position. I will do one more mock up of everything before I really stick it all in place. I will go to the metal shop on Saturday and find some plate for the top. I figure I will just stick with some cheap 1/8" flat stock. I may punch a hole or two in the bottom for jacking/wash-out points.

Under the paint.
PIXI2011-12-01-205023.jpg


Starting to look like something's coming together with these. I wish I had the time to finish them in one setting, but lack of tools/time is holding me back. I keep buying tools here and there and each step is easier than the last. My next projects should go even faster.
PIXI2011-12-01-210347.jpg


New Plasma Cutter - YouTube
 
I did some more tonight.

Stacked up some stuff to get it up to the frame and do some more measuring. Here is where it will be. It looks like it is pretty far out there in the pictures, but looks better in person. It is about 1" short of sticking out as far as the tires. I'm going with Lance's suggestion of mounting them with the heavy metal down and making the top a step. I took these as soon as I got home, just to show you how dark it is at 5pm.

PIXI2011-12-01-165829.jpg


PIXI2011-12-01-165837.jpg


With more accurate measurements, I moved on to tacking the rest of the square tubing in position. I will do one more mock up of everything before I really stick it all in place. I will go to the metal shop on Saturday and find some plate for the top. I figure I will just stick with some cheap 1/8" flat stock. I may punch a hole or two in the bottom for jacking/wash-out points.

Under the paint.
PIXI2011-12-01-205023.jpg


Starting to look like something's coming together with these. I wish I had the time to finish them in one setting, but lack of tools/time is holding me back. I keep buying tools here and there and each step is easier than the last. My next projects should go even faster.
PIXI2011-12-01-210347.jpg


New Plasma Cutter - YouTube

PM Albert he might still have a toolbox we did with Jon. green truck.
 
No Mike S the toolbox we used for Jon's truck was all but consumed. What's left would not be enough to do even one slider.
 
If I do diamond plate or "tread steel" as they call it at the local shop, I would have to use one full piece, or else I would have to cut and weld pieces together which wouldn't turn out very good with the texture of it. However, if I use some 1/8" flat stock, I can cut and weld pieces however I want and it will turn out alright. I will hopefully get the boxing material tonight.
 
I finally had some daylight today, unfortunately it was raining. I did have a short break in the rain, which allowed me to check for fit and make some final adjustments.

I moved them in to 11 1/4" out from the frame and got a little more weld area inside of the channel. After everything was welded in place with some decent welds, I installed my 1/8" cutouts to box it all in. Heavy side is down. I cleaned everything up to MY standard and painted, finishing off the top and sides with bed liner. Bottom side is cheap black primer that will probably be re-coated after every trip out. I also cut some little slots in the to give my jack a place to catch if I want to use the as a lift point. Thought it was a good idea.

I hope the weather cooperates tomorrow, so that I can get these things mounted and me done with it! It probably would have been easier to build tube sliders. This gave me some good practice for when I move on to another project, which will be AWHILE.

Paint drying.
PIXI2011-12-03-224911.jpg
 
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So, since it was raining and I was watching paint dry, I decided to move on to my next project. This will be a rear 4" channel bumper with wrap-arounds and a tire carrier. Since I keep breaking taillights, I thought I could use protection in that area. Then I though, well, I can do even better by eliminating the current tail lights and installing some low profile lights in the bumper I am building.

Now, I know I need a front bumper, and that's on the list. However, I would like to buy a winch first to size things up, and I feel that the front bumper is more important than rear bumper or sliders because I will likely have a load on it more often, especially with a winch. In my mind, a rear bumper is just a slider for your rear that is sometimes a recover point.
 

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