Billyfj7312ht
Should only take ten minutes
I love a can do attitude.......so that's a whole cooler full?
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you might google for a soda blasting service in your area (like sandblasting but uses baking soda). Be a hellofalot faster than a wire brush.
You guys are optimistic as hell. I fix rust on high value classic vehicles as part of my job. I live in Maine. Here are some thoughts on rust.
-Rust is always many times worse than it looks. Always.
-If you don't completely disassemble (like drill out spot welds and take every thing apart to sand blast) there will still be rust or rust damage.
-POR15 doesn't work very well. I have repaired lots of stuff that it was used on.
-Soda blasting will not touch rust. You need a media harder than iron oxide like coal slag, copper slag, silica, etc.
-If you have good sheetmetal and frames now, coat them with oil, grease, wax. something that will not chip or allow water in.
-The land cruiser in question probably has a bit of body rust (holes) and some decent pitting on the frame. The mechanical fasteners and plumbing will not be very nice to work on.
All these reasons are why I bought my 1997 FZJ80 in Florida and paid ~$700 to ship it up here. Esentially $700 to not have any rust to fix. I have billed out over $20k to fix rust on countless cars. It take many hundreds of hours to fix it correctly.
The bottom of mine looks far better than any 2013 truck that has been through two or three Maine winters. The first thing I did was use a heated pressure washer on the entire underside and let it dry for a few days. Then I coated everything I could get to with a 30" spray nozzle with fluid film. I drove it last winter and it looks fantastic still. The fluid film is not durable in areas that get direct splashing. This winter I will use a heavy wax product like AMS oil HD chain lube, which dries to a harder wax coating. This is very similar to cavity wax OEMs use in some rockers. I have sprayed the AMS oil stuff in all my doors, quarters, tailgate, rockers and will do the wheel wells and inner rockers before it gets nasty up here. The fluid film is holding up fine down the middle of the truck and inside the frame. Sorry for the rant but I work on this stuff a lot and am always researching and testing the best ways to repair and prevent rust. I hate it!
Sorry for a bit of a thread resurrection, but i was interested in having my undercarriage media blasted (with soda, pellets, whatever they think is best) and completely coated to address the existing rust and slow the progress of any future rust. My question was how is this done so that there is no damage to anything somewhat fragile, like rubber, plastic electrical etc. I'll have someone do it as I have neither the space or the patience to do it myself.
Just don't fix your oil pan, tranny pan leaks, let the oil soak the bottom and you'll never get rust
Now you're just making fun of southerners, we're really not that bad... ok maybe we are.They see snow they crash into the nearest ditch
I am with superjuice. rust happens. get over it. I had a 1997 jeep that rusted so bad, the fender rotted through, frame cracked in three places, skid plate fell off and with it the transmission. My new jeep got coated when it left florida, did it every year for the past 10 years....you know what...still a tiny bit of rust. AT this point, rust is rust, rot...I run
Folks from rust free states don't understand the concept of degrees of rust just as they don't understand how to drive in the snow or ice. They see rust...they run, they see snow they crash into the nearest ditch