Builds ROTW My Yoda (2 Viewers)

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Here are some photos of the new Alpine deck and XM Radio. XM Radio works great with excellent reception wherever I've gone. I also installed the FM modulator which dramatically improves the signal to the Alpine deck.

EDIT: 1/20/09
Well I went wheeling in the mountains today and found that there were a number of times that I lost the XM radio signal for a short period (no more than 5 minutes). Clearly there are situations that degrade or block reception of the XM radio signal. I'm still glad I installed the XM radio.
XM Radio 05.jpg
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Here are some photos of the XM antenna and the LED dash light I installed in the Dash Box. The LED has about a 120 degree light dispersion and I can see my control switches at night. The light output is consistent with the LEDs I installed in the instrument panel. I decided to align the dash light with the center of the dash box as the light illuminated the instrument panel if I aligned it with the center of the dash switches.
Dash Box 02.jpg
Dash Box 03.jpg
Dash Box 05.jpg
 
This post is the result of a thread started, I believe by Trollhole, on a broken Windshield Knob. It got me thinking about what shape the two in my 40 were in. I removed both of them and found hairline cracks in both. I did not want to pay SOR $33.55 each to replace them, so I did some research on the web and came up with this solution. I purchased two knobs with steel M8 inserts from Monroe Engineering for under $4.00 each. MA-72005. They also had them with Stainless inserts for under $10 each. They do not have a minimum buy. I purchased SS M8 studs that were 80 mm long from McMaster-Carr for $3.31 each. You can find them on page 3141 (P/N 93805A369) M8 80mm Stud. I purchased a .02 oz of Loctite 262 for $1.69 found on page 3354 (P/N 91458A56) Loctite 262. The large OD M8 SS flat washers you see in the photos are not really needed and are used because I'm just an anal ME. If you want to use them they are found on page 3185 (P/N 95211A180) Metric M8 Large OD SS Washers. I ended up with a cost of $8.00 each plus the ride from both companies which was reasonable unlike SOR.
Windshield Knob Assy 02.jpg
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Windshield Knob Assy 01.jpg
 
This is made-up of an ABS external slip to internal threads (5803-2) with an ABS plug. The white part is a PVC adapter that is external slip to internal slip (4INDWVX4SD 30 Adapter). What the PVC does is give you an external OD of approximately 4.75 inches versus the Clean out OD of 4.5 inches.


Used this trick yesterday on my buddies fj40!!! Worked great!!, Thanks for posting the pictures!!

:beer::beer:
 
I know this has been said before but.....DAMN! That's an amazing FJ40! Bsevans, I love everything you've done with it and I'm sure you're very proud (as you should be). I've owned my 40 only a short time but I plan on keeping it forever. I hope it looks as good in twenty years as yours does now. Seriously inspirational! Thanks.
 
Used this trick yesterday on my buddies fj40!!! Worked great!!, Thanks for posting the pictures!!

:beer::beer:

Another satisfied user. I think Toyota should assign an SST to this setup :) since they no longer make the SST to install the rear seal.:cheers:
 
I know this has been said before but.....DAMN! That's an amazing FJ40! Bsevans, I love everything you've done with it and I'm sure you're very proud (as you should be). I've owned my 40 only a short time but I plan on keeping it forever. I hope it looks as good in twenty years as yours does now. Seriously inspirational! Thanks.

Thanks!! :beer:
 
What kind of Nut Inserts do you use and is a speacial tool required?

I buy them from McMaster-Carr. Nut Inserts & Tools I have the Insert Combination Kit for SAE & Metric. I also have the wrench-drive rivet nut installation tools and use an impact wrench to install the larger sizes in the frame. They are designed for SAE grade 8 and metric class 12.9 screws and are very stout. When I use an impact wrench to install one, I chase the threads with a tap.
 
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Wow, awesome rig you've built up there! I like all the mods you've done and attention to detail. They are all quality and make it even more impressive as a package. I understand your need for anti-theft devices. :cool:
 
I have been looking for a solution to the fact that there was no longer a factory rubber bellows replacement available. I have tried so many solutions; wire reinforced, cord reinforced and no reinforcement. A number have fit but I just did not like the finished appearance. I was reading through the thread “Air Cleaner Hose Solutions” and found post 13 by platypusREX very interesting. I decided to try it with a change in the component selection. Instead of the 2.75" - 3" Silicone Reducer Coupler Hose 3-Ply Reinforced Black, I chose a Reducing Hump Hose 3" ID to 2.75" ID made from black rubber with no reinforcement and a wall thickness of approximately .2”. This item was purchased from www.intakehoses.com. I purchased two for $27.16 plus $10.20 for shipping and handling. Instead of the air Intake Adapter, 22 Degree Elbow, Polymer, Chrome, 3.00” OD, 6.125” Length I chose a 3" Polished Aluminum 22 Deg. Elbow. This item was purchased from www.SpectrePerformance.com for $19.99 plus $10.00 for shipping and handling. I wanted the area under each hump to be clear of the tube which required .75” removed from each end of the tube. This was performed with a tubing cutter. The edge of each end were then smoothed using a debur tool and a fine sanding sponge. If you try this setup and do not have a debur tool a half round file will do. The results are shown below. Again, I want to thank platypusREX for the idea.

UPGRADE MODIFICATION:

I noticed when I swept the assembly towards the radiator to put the front bolt through the tab that the horn mounts to (after attaching the assembly to the air cleaner housing) there was compression of the hump reducer on the inside and stretch on the outside. I took my digital protractor and measured the angle of intersection between the air horn and the entrance to the air cleaner housing, which turned out to be 35 degrees. I went back to Spectre Performance and found that they make a 35 degree elbow. 3" Polished Aluminum 35 Deg. Elbow, Part Number 9439. Not only does it have the correct angle which eliminates the torque on the hump reducers, but it is shorter than the 22 degree elbow and does not require any trimming. As close to being the perfect part for this particular application. I have not changed the photos as they would only reflect the elimination of the torque on the hump reducers.

Air Cleaner Hose Solutions

platypusREX post 13
Air Intake Modification-01.jpg
Air Intake Modification-03.jpg
Air Intake Modification-04.jpg
 
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Goes with everything else you did, very nice. Thanks for sharing .
 
The skid plate gets a POR-15 spa treatment

After letting the skid plate from hell accumulate surface rust for a couple of years, I removed the skid plate and cleaned it with a sanding sponge and degreaser followed by surface prep from POR-15. I then took a number of days putting 3 coats of POR-15 grey on the inside with at least 24 hours before I flipped the skid plate over to do the outside. After that was thoroughly cured I put 3 coats of two part epoxy hard coat, also from POR-15 which took another couple of days. I let it cure for 3 days before reinstalling. The hard coat is only on the outside.
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Nice clean 40. And that is also a nice standard poodle.

Abbey is most definitely a keeper. She will be 12 in Jan. and I wish I had her energy. Very friendly and happy dog.
 
Here is the air intake with 3" ID Silicone hose. I found adapters that went from 2.75" to 3.0" which allowed me to convert from rubber hose to Silicone hose.
Air Intake Modification 05.jpg
 

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