Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (4 Viewers)

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I didn't have a trac-bar with the regular 62 leaves and I know I had bad axle wrap. I don't know how it'll be in low range yet, but I'll take a video to see.

I'm kicking myself for not taking a video on the street with the old rear suspension, but I use to have real bad axle wrap on the street as well. Now it's much better.


I'm trying to stay away from a wrap bar due to the whole conflicting arc thing.

Ya I would definitely check out how much wrap it has in 4wd. I think that is when most SO rigs break pinions, u-joints. At least that is how i sheared my u-joints on my DC shaft. Well they were 25+ years old...

And could you elaborate on the "conflicting arc"... Are you referring to a reduction in flex?
 
Ya I would definitely check out how much wrap it has in 4wd. I think that is when most SO rigs break pinions, u-joints. At least that is how i sheared my u-joints on my DC shaft. Well they were 25+ years old...

Oh I'm well aware. Things are a little different with my setup, but conceptually the same. I don't think you grasp how much of a difference these new springs make over the stock 60 springs. It's dramatic.

And could you elaborate on the "conflicting arc"... Are you referring to a reduction in flex?

Here you go, do some reading. This guy's "ladder bar" is what we typically refer to as a traction or anti-wrap bar:
http://deckersonline.com/fj40_traction_bar
 
Oh I'm well aware. Things are a little different with my setup, but conceptually the same. I don't think you grasp how much of a difference these new springs make over the stock 60 springs. It's dramatic.



Here you go, do some reading. This guy's "ladder bar" is what we typically refer to as a traction or anti-wrap bar:
http://deckersonline.com/fj40_traction_bar

Ya you have quite a bit more beef in the axle department on moonshine.. I have made up my mind that once these 62 springs wear out, I will slap some chevy 63s on.

And that was an interesting article. I was under the impression that a single bar setup is not good for preventing axle wrap. I feel like with the way I am setting mine up (shackle above crossmember) that it will pivot back when the truck is unloaded, and pivot foreword when the truck is loaded. If i get the spring wrapping symptoms like the guy in the article stated, then I suppose I can either tighten or loosen the Heim Joint on the shackle side of the top bar. Thanks for the link though.. I drew it out on paper when i was planning this, but did not take into account that the shackle could push the pinion up when both tires are in full droop. Hopefully I didn't waste $300 on this...:meh:
 
Ya you have quite a bit more beef in the axle department on moonshine.. I have made up my mind that once these 62 springs wear out, I will slap some chevy 63s on.

And that was an interesting article. I was under the impression that a single bar setup is not good for preventing axle wrap. I feel like with the way I am setting mine up (shackle above crossmember) that it will pivot back when the truck is unloaded, and pivot foreword when the truck is loaded. If i get the spring wrapping symptoms like the guy in the article stated, then I suppose I can either tighten or loosen the Heim Joint on the shackle side of the top bar. Thanks for the link though.. I drew it out on paper when i was planning this, but did not take into account that the shackle could push the pinion up when both tires are in full droop. Hopefully I didn't waste $300 on this...:meh:

In reality, I think the only two negatives that a "ladder bar" or "anti-wrap bar" causes are:
1. minor decrease in overall articulation
2. increased wear on the leaf springs

I don't think it's a waste. The two above points is much more favorable than shearing a pinion.
 
In reality, I think the only two negatives that a "ladder bar" or "anti-wrap bar" causes are:
1. minor decrease in overall articulation
2. increased wear on the leaf springs

I don't think it's a waste. The two above points is much more favorable than shearing a pinion.

I completely agree with your last statement. It will be a lot easier on the wallet replacing leaves rather than U-joints and pinion bearings. Rebuilding my DC driveshaft cost me a pretty penny... I want to try and avoid that again.

I can live with the reduction of articulation. My shocks are already doing just that haha.

Plus the terrain out here is really loose and rocky, therefor I find myself in a lot of situations where I have to hammer down on the skinny pedal to get through obstacles. Hopefully the Trac Bar will limit the bucking bronco feel.

Keep up the good work on Moonshine man. Hopefully I can check it out in person one day If you come down to the LoneStar round-up!

-MJ
 
In the next few years I intend to make it to the LoneStar round-up :D

Thank you sir!
 
Can't wait. I would trailer her in if you have the option.

And that's the big dependency, buying a tow rig and trailer. It'll happen, just need time :D
 
In other news, I FINALLY figured out the flickering light (varying voltage) problem with my alternator. Using the externally regulated Dodge alternator, you have to replicate the function of the factory computer-controlled voltage regulator with something else. Up until today, I've been using an ugly, and cumbersome, external Dodge regulator, but no more! Thanks to this thread on 4BTSwaps, I've now got an internally regulated alternator that only requires two wires. Much cleaner install and consistent volts! Happy guy right here.

http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showt...rnator-Internal-Regulator-Conversion&p=686465

This is the correct way to wire the regulator up with the Transpo regulator (small silver and black thing):

IMAG0006.jpg


One IGN power to the orange wire terminal, positive out to the battery and you're done!!

IMAG0007.jpg


That tiny regulator replaces this garbage.

IMAG0008.jpg


Thanks again everyone!!!
 
easy fix. I know it would have drove me crazy with the lights flickering.
 
easy fix. I know it would have drove me crazy with the lights flickering.

It did drive me crazy. I tried re-writing the damn external vr 3 times and couldn't get it working. Leave it to the boys at 4btswaps to find an easy fix! Regulator was only $30 too.
 
Super cool fix, love the easy cheap ones.
 
To address the decrease in articulation with a ladder bar you can use an orbit eye or two at the shackle end of the bar. They eyes will serve the same purpose as a bushing but allow the bar to flex or deflect while youre articulating your junk.

D
 
You already know it's on my bucket list, so we can caravan it. We can also make a point to swing by my brother's house in Keller and get him in trouble with the housing development/HOA type thing.

I'll pay for fuel from my house and back if you come by with a two car hauler for that Tundra :D
 
Trailer a wagon? Come on.

I'm with davegonz, wagons are made for driving! That's what you put the fuel efficient 4BT in for right? lol
 
I'm with davegonz, wagons are made for driving! That's what you put the fuel efficient 4BT in for right? lol
It's all fun and games until a $20 fuel line part decides to break and the nearest Cummins dealer is 150 miles away. Ask me how i know :)
 
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