Restoring Green Bean '82 FJ40

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by akingf5371, Apr 1, 2013.

  1. akingf5371

    akingf5371 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    722
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    Shane, I actually ordered 4 from real steel with the rest of my panels. I didn't know if I would need to replace all 4 but I was sure on 2 so I hedged my bet.
  2. akingf5371

    akingf5371 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    722
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    Fixing this rib with my patch panel. I thought they would be almost identical. I think they are dissimilar enough to warrant replacing the whole rib.

    Attached Files:

  3. akingf5371

    akingf5371 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    722
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    Replaced the rib in full. I think it looks pretty good. I had to weld the bottom of this from the inside of the wheel well, but it still popped due to body filler. Got a new set of burrs that have some pretty small balls that I will be able to really grind the small parts flat.
    I think the rib looks pretty good. It might not be 100% perfect but without a ruler I don't think anyone would be able to tell.

    Attached Files:

    alabamatacomaguy likes this.
  4. Ken White

    Ken White

    Messages:
    300
    Location:
    Cooktown, Queensland
    Adam looks like you are progressing well with the rebuild. I will be watching this thread closely as I too have no welding experience and have a BJ42 that needs a bit of work done on her.
  5. akingf5371

    akingf5371 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    722
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    Thanks Ken, I feel it goes slower then it should. Buy a welder and jump in! That's what I did for the most part. I honestly think the prepping of the panel is more difficult than the welding part. To make sure it's flush and even and ready to weld takes patience and practice.
  6. SteveH

    SteveH

    Messages:
    1,565
    Location:
    Southern Colorado
    Man - that looks great. Jumping in is right - at some point, you fire up the welder realizing that you cannot make the situation worse. Once you've honed your skills on the hidden parts (holes under your feet), then you start welding visible panels.
  7. Jacket

    Jacket Moderator

    Messages:
    1,050
    Location:
    Boulder, Colorado
    Good stuff - you just jumped right in. That's the same way I got going with mine - just bought a welder and started playing with it to replace my rear sill and rusted quarters. But somehow 3 years have now gone by and I haven't got back to it. :(

    How are your floorboards? That's next for me and for $150 the Real Steel floor pan looks like a good option.
  8. micdon

    micdon SILVER Star

    Messages:
    214
    Location:
    Almere,The Netherlands
    If you don't have anything else available, even regular zinkspray will do
  9. akingf5371

    akingf5371 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    722
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    More work! Going to have to be a bondo expert to get everything nice and smooth

    Attached Files:

  10. akingf5371

    akingf5371 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    722
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    Replacing the front brace. Took much more time than I thought!

    Attached Files:

  11. akingf5371

    akingf5371 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    722
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    Final pictures from today!

    Attached Files:


  12. akingf5371

    akingf5371 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    722
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    Forgot about the top! I will be doing this different on the next 3. I just filled in the holes with the mig, that wasn't great as it was much thinner than I anticipated. I'm replacing it with fresh steel. I also filled in the holes for the roll bar, first by accident and then I went ahead did the rest of them. I'm still on the fence about replacing the capture nuts or just using normal nuts.

    Attached Files:

  13. akingf5371

    akingf5371 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    722
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    Today's work.

    Attached Files:

  14. coinoperated40

    coinoperated40

    Messages:
    531
    Location:
    Salisbury, N.C.
    I like the work you're doing. Tried some welding today and would not post any pictures of it at all. I need a lot of practice.
    Keep it going.
  15. akingf5371

    akingf5371 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    722
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    Ha! I can't say I make the prettiest welds. I feel like I'm improving. Prep is the key I've noticed. One bite at a time!
  16. coinoperated40

    coinoperated40

    Messages:
    531
    Location:
    Salisbury, N.C.
    The welding just got some better. Ran out of wire and figured the wire that was on the welder was a sample spool that came with the machine. The welder is over 15 years old.
    I have cut and reversed a tail gate latch and need to weld it, so I am about ready to try.
    Weld on..
  17. akingf5371

    akingf5371 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    722
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    Wheel well getting close to done

    Attached Files:

  18. Ken White

    Ken White

    Messages:
    300
    Location:
    Cooktown, Queensland
    Looks like you are getting there mate. I have just started to teach myself how to MIG weld and I like Coinoperated need a lot of practice. I notice that you seem to just run spot welds and no runs when you patch your part. Is there any reason for this. Keep up the posts and good work.
  19. coinoperated40

    coinoperated40

    Messages:
    531
    Location:
    Salisbury, N.C.
    I think running spot welds on the thin metal helps from warp. If not someone will point me in the right direction..
    Getting back to practice as soon as the family leaves. Did this to get the grill off the wheels. It didn't fall when I put the granite top on, so that was a good sign. image.jpg
  20. subzali

    subzali

    Messages:
    2,711
    Location:
    Denver CO
    Adam, capture (ie weld) those roll bar nuts in. Just trust me


    ...via IH8MUD app

Share This Page