Restoration decisions (1 Viewer)

[jamba256]

Hello,

I haven't posted here very frequently, but now I am at a place in my life where I read MUD every day and try to get some ideas...but unfortunately, I'm at a loss when it comes to my '40. Three years ago, my wife and I found an all-stock 1979 FJ40 in Cape Cod, MA, and we drove it back to VA. Now, I have the time, space (limited) and resources to attack the project.

I have some basic mechanical stuff that needs to be addressed: leak from differentials, rusted and sagging stock suspension, leak from oil pan, and wires running everywhere. But most concerning is the body. Living in Cape Cod, there is a lot of rust and some bondo on the back of the quarter panels, the cowls and fenders are rusted, one of the hardtop sides has severe bubbling rust, and the floor pans are in dire straits. Oh, and the frame has significant rust, as well.

My questions for the Cruiser Wizards out there is:
1) Do I take the 40 to a local offroad or frame shop to have them assess the strength and thickness of the frame members? I want to coat it, but not before I know everything is good for whatever I want to throw at it.
2) I don't have the room (or I don't think that I have the room) to do a complete frame-off restoration. I want to do whatever I can without doing this, and I will spend whatever it takes...but I want to do most of it myself. Does anyone have a good suggestion regarding where to begin?
3) I will attach some photos a little later--my wife is bugging me.

I posted a related question in different thread a year or so ago, my biggest question is really relating to the viability of a strong rebuild project in a year with lots of time and money (relative), and without a ton of space (i.e. how good can I do one without a complete frame-off and engine/tranny removal?).

Please, Obi 40 Kenobis, you are most likely my only hope.

 

[78fj40mg]

I Look forward to some pics!

You can purchase body parts from here CCOT

If you need OEM parts I recommend @beno (Onur) here on MUD
or try SOR

 

[Ambrew]

Only you can decide what is feasible...

Here's my experience: I did mine in a 13x24' garage. Spent a lot of money, about 2.5 time what I thought I would and it took me 1200 hours or so, not including the paint or powder coating I subcontracted. Be organised, be systematic and read a lot of build threads. Make lists, work hard but have fun. I thought I would be running in a year and a half, and it took three.

It's easy to start the project, but most people I know hit a motivational wall at some point. That's when it becomes less fun. You could always do a bit at a time.

As for your frame, you can measure it's thickness pretty easily. And if you are doing a frame off, you can repair it once it's been sandblasted. If the prospect of fixing a frame is daunting, then really consider how much you want to do a frame off. There are a lot of challenging things that may seem easy from the outside.

Now post some pics!

one bolt at a time.

 

[fhawk5]

The journey of a lifetime begins with the "first step".

 

[TheHardWay]

I remembered your previous thread, and just reread it. Dude, you're in serious trouble with this rig. The one thing you don't want to do is the one thing you really NEED to do. If that frame isn't solid, all the money you're talking about putting into everything else is moot. Find a way to do a frame off, even if you have to rent a storage unit to store the parts while you get that frame dealt with.

 

[winnie]

money and time are equal resources in my view ... if you have the time (and skill) you can spend less money, but the opposite is true too i.e. spend and get it done faster ... either approach gets the job done ... maybe you can leverage your project by finding another 40, and making one truck out of two ... maybe its cheaper to find a 40 in better shape ... I enjoy working on my truck, but I want to enjoy driving it too and have taken a project by project approach to minimize not being able to enjoy it ... a frame off will be a last resort for me ... good luck with your decision ...

 

[FJ404345]

I remembered your previous thread, and just reread it. Dude, you're in serious trouble with this rig. The one thing you don't want to do is the one thing you really NEED to do. If that frame isn't solid, all the money you're talking about putting into everything else is moot. Find a way to do a frame off, even if you have to rent a storage unit to store the parts while you get that frame dealt with.

^^this^^

 

[Bambi Girl]

Hi
My story is similar to yours.
Two years of hard work and I have gone from this to this.
I must say I have enjoyed the journey .
It's been drivable for 5 days now.

Cheers

...via IH8MUD app

 

[grapestomper]

I am taking the 3 year plan, the first year I did the underside. Ground where needed cleaned thoroughly and por 15 the complete underside as best I could without removing anything . I also changed all fluids and fixed any fluid leaks. Breaks worked ok.
This year working on body issues, bought a welder and went at it myself. Turns out good after a little practice. Also put 33" tires on this year. Had the brakes rebuilt. I also redid the seats this year. Next year my plan is to repaint and replace all the door seals. That should give me decent truck that will last quite awhile. I did it this way because the kids like to drive in it. We take it everywhere together. So there are many ways to go at it, that just what I am doing. Good luck.

 

[Xpnsv72fj]

I remembered your previous thread, and just reread it. Dude, you're in serious trouble with this rig. The one thing you don't want to do is the one thing you really NEED to do. If that frame isn't solid, all the money you're talking about putting into everything else is moot. Find a way to do a frame off, even if you have to rent a storage unit to store the parts while you get that frame dealt with

I just read though your other thread and my god that frame looks scary! As others have said focus on that first as well as other safety items. When I bought my 40 last august all the body work had been done but the frame was a little sketchy as well. The good news is I picked up a new frame from a MUD member that had been blasted and painted for $300 bucks, which is the way I think you should go, most likely cheaper than having your current one fixed.
By the way I’m right up the road from you right outside of Richmond, I don’t know much and I’m still learning myself but I’m always willing to help out!
Josh

 

[TheHardWay]

By the way I’m right up the road from you right outside of Richmond, I don’t know much and I’m still learning myself but I’m always willing to help out!

That's the MUD way!

 

[FJ404345]

Maybe it can be an option to find an other Fj40 with a good frame and build everything over

 

[toomanytoyzz]

I second that. Look for someone parting out a project truck and try and get the frame with title as well as the rears to make it a roller. Then you can start swapping things over.

 

[shelfboy1]

my experiance with 79 fj40 metal has not been good i actually had 2 frames break in half .i would get underneath and start picking with a hammer and see how good the frame actually is .if your going to invest money in a restoration then the frame needs to be solid good luck

 

[jamba256]

Thanks, everyone for your plentiful and insightful input. I'm sorry I haven't responded in a few days, I've been kind of in a dark hole doing work outside of the 40.

The general consensus is that the frame is OBVIOUSLY the first place to start, and the most important...so thanks for putting me back in the right frame of mind (pun?). Anyhow, I think I'm going to take it to the local frame/offroad shop and see what they say about repair.

Yes, it would be completely awesome to do a frame-off and look for a rolling chassis, and that's what I might end up doing. But for right now, the deeper-than-surface rust is not actually that terrible (aside from spring and pin perches), and I want to see what someone else will say since I really have no structural welding experience.

But, concur regarding all comments about getting a new frame. That would make things easier (and slightly more complicated), and I guess I'm unofficially in the market for it now.

Is it worthwhile to have someone else look at it? Thanks again, errybody.

 

[jamba256]

I just read though your other thread and my god that frame looks scary! As others have said focus on that first as well as other safety items. When I bought my 40 last august all the body work had been done but the frame was a little sketchy as well. The good news is I picked up a new frame from a MUD member that had been blasted and painted for $300 bucks, which is the way I think you should go, most likely cheaper than having your current one fixed.
By the way I’m right up the road from you right outside of Richmond, I don’t know much and I’m still learning myself but I’m always willing to help out!
Josh

Josh, thanks a ton, man. I very well may take you up on that offer...

 

[Jdc1]

Thanks, everyone for your plentiful and insightful input. I'm sorry I haven't responded in a few days, I've been kind of in a dark hole doing work outside of the 40.

The general consensus is that the frame is OBVIOUSLY the first place to start, and the most important...so thanks for putting me back in the right frame of mind (pun?). Anyhow, I think I'm going to take it to the local frame/offroad shop and see what they say about repair.

Yes, it would be completely awesome to do a frame-off and look for a rolling chassis, and that's what I might end up doing. But for right now, the deeper-than-surface rust is not actually that terrible (aside from spring and pin perches), and I want to see what someone else will say since I really have no structural welding experience.

But, concur regarding all comments about getting a new frame. That would make things easier (and slightly more complicated), and I guess I'm unofficially in the market for it now.

Is it worthwhile to have someone else look at it? Thanks again, errybody.

Most economical way to do it would be to source a clean replacement frame. Frame repairs get expensive at $65-$100 an hour. And then you have a repaired frame. You could have everything swapped over in a weekend with help and the truck sitting next to the donor frame. Said donor could even be blasted and finished beforehand.

 

[TheHardWay]

Whew. Sometimes being a MUD member feels like belonging to a 12 step addiction program

 

[Solace in Solitude]

I don't know if this applies in your state, but I'm throwing it out there... just in case... better to know up front...

When a vehicle is registered for the first time, in Nevada, you have to first have a VIN Inspection done... the VIN Inspectors are part of DMV.

The VIN Inspectors check two obvious areas: 1) the VIN on the door pillar and 2) the VIN on the outside of the frame, passenger side, behind the front-passenger wheel.

If the VIN matches in both locations, the VIN Inspection is passed.

If the VIN is different between the two locations, you have to have two titles, one for each VIN and you have to register both VINs.

It might behoove you to find out if this applies in your area, before you swap in a different frame, with a different VIN. Just so you can plan for this, if it applies.

I haven't seen your other thread, but I have no doubt that the others are right about your frame.

It seems to me that sourcing a good frame, cleaning it up and painting it, disassembling your 40 and reassembling it on the new frame would be a lot faster and cheaper than a regular frame off.

You are also less likely to end up with small parts that don't seem to have a place to go, because you can't recall where they were pulled from in the first place.

I would also suggest you do a compression test and (if necessary) a leak down test, before you start pulling it apart, so you can have an idea whether your engine might need a valve job or a full rebuild/replacement. If you are going to pull your engine, that would be a good time to rebuild it or pull the head and do a valve job or have a valve job done.

One of the really great things about 40s is that they are so easy to work on and really basic, as long as you work to learn how the electrical and fuel systems work... and are able to search MUD and, if necessary, ask the same dumb questions most of us have asked, at one point or the other.

Regardless of how you proceed, you will find enjoyment in doing much of it yourself. The successes I have had with my FJ40 are far greater highs than anything I ever experienced during 43 years of software development and years and years of wood working, as a hobby.

Enjoy yourself!!

 

[JohnnyC]

What does the bad spots look like? Are they stress cracks or rot spots? IMO that matters when deciding on wether to replace the frame... I had seen many a truck wheel hard with ranchos (very hard springs) developed cracks by the spring perches

A friend of mine had fixed many a solid frame that had cracked

You got pics?