Replacing EGR Pipe Gasket (1 Viewer)

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Jan 28, 2012
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Palo Alto, CA
This is the job I've been dreading, but it's long overdue...I need to replace the EGR pipe gasket (#1 in the picture).

Is it possible to do it without loosing the big nut #27 on the other end? Can you just pull the pipe out without loosening the nut, like someone said in the 60 series thread? Otherwise, I can't access that nut because the exhaust down pipe is in the way. If I have to loosen the nut, it appears that I either need to take out the cooler (which I really don't want to get into), or find some kind of 36 mm Crow's Foot wrench to get at it laterally. I figure it can't be that hard to replace this gasket!

Another problem I ran into is that stud #21 broke when I tried to remove the nut, but most of the stud came out along with the nut. What would you guys do? I can potentially just screw the broken stud back in and call it a day, but obviously I prefer to get the broken part out if there's is a relatively painless way do so.

EGR Pipe.gif
 
You pretty much have to do it right, to avoid exhaust leaks. Unfortunately, it's not always easy. Toyota really should have used a three-bolt flange with a donut for that connection.

By the way, I don't know if the gasket for an 80 is the same as for a 78, or whether they are still available or not, but I have several new OEM gaskets for a 78 in case you need one or a couple. If you do, ping me.

Edit: It looks like the 78 and 80 gaskets are the same and that SOR has them. I'll sell you two for the SOR price of one and my shipping will be much cheaper. :^)
 
I'm assuming there's a stub of the stud left. If so, weld a nut onto it and then turn it out with a wrench. The heat of welding will break it free, exhaust manifold in-place, with fewer issues then using a torch in there would.
 
There are only two bolts holding the EGR cooler to the block, probably be a lot easier to take those out than to loosen that rusted and corroded nut. If you can get a small drill under there, you might could get the broken stud out with a left-hand drill bit. Spray it a lot before hand. This has worked for me on several occasions. Good luck!

Skip
 
There are only two bolts holding the EGR cooler to the block, probably be a lot easier to take those out than to loosen that rusted and corroded nut. If you can get a small drill under there, you might could get the broken stud out with a left-hand drill bit. Spray it a lot before hand. This has worked for me on several occasions. Good luck!

Skip

Thanks Skip! I'll take another look at the cooler in the morning. There is likely no easy option, since the cooler bolt looks pretty rusty as well.
Earlier, I ordered a big 36mm crows foot wrench through Amazon Prime. I'd like to at least find out if it's possible to get at the nut. Man, this whole EGR plumbing is obviously an afterthought. When Toyota put it in, they probably never expected someone to be working on it 35 years later.

Upon examination of the broken stud, it turned out it was likely already broken by the PO a long time back. The nut was the wrong size jammed onto the stud. Another sin of the PO discovered decades later!
 
its a sucky job. But its doable, think I have done 4-5 of of them(on post 81+) The SOR pipe is the way to go(never had to go back using one), but use OEM gasket

I have ADD, so when I do one I get every darn part I may need, ferels, studs, gasket, nuts etc.....I assume they will all be bad(they may not be)

the cooler bolts may look rusty but they do come right out, that will be a breeze compared to getting the big nut off. You are going to want to remove them to loosen the cooler so all the bits go back together easier.

I have used a modified wrench on the bug nut, it works. Last time I removed the big nut, I just cut the J pipe off right at the back of the nut, then put an impact on it. (the big nut is NLA from Toyota, so be nice to it) But of course still needed the wrench to get it back on. Before you put the pipe , feral and nut back on, run the nut in and out of the cooler a few times. Oh, the pipe WILL not just pull out of the cooler(unless someone forgot the feral)

you are going to have to deal with the broken stud, drill and tap or whatever, but if you don't get a good seal on that end.....then you may as well not have replaced it. The OEM studs have a slot in the bottom so you can turn them(in theory)

think the 1st time I did one I spent the better part of a day, last one I did......1 hour(I did have it on a lift which REALLY helps, all the work is from the bottom)
 
Save yourself a hastle and remove the manifold. Remove the #10 bolts for the EGR cooler and then just pull the whole manifold assembly. You need to replace the #21 stud and welding a nut on it is the quick and easy way. When I replaced the gasket on my 76 with the thermonuclear manifold, I used a 1 inch ID donut (I think it was a VW bug muffler gasket) and the gasket and I didn't have any problems with leaks for 12 years.
 
I'm going to tackle this job in such a way that it can be repeated, so here's the plan of attack:
1) Wait for the crows foot wrench to arrive and see it's possible to loosen the nut. This is the same idea as using a modified wrench (cutting a regular wrench into a short wrench).
2) If #1 fails, will have a go at the cooler bolt, and then jiggle the cooler just enough to get the EGR pipe off at the other end to sneak in the gasket
3) Will gather up the small parts. Already got stainless nuts and washers to replace #12 and 14. Does anyone have the part # for the stud (#21) handy? I think it's 92112-60818 but not really sure until I see it.
 
My pipe was toast (rusted out), I replaced it with $or's stainless steel one. I had to place the big nut into a vice, heat it with a torch and use a large pipe wrench to turn the EGR cooler. After soaking with penetration fluid, heating with torch, soaking, heating, soaking, heating...it finally broke loose. I got a used nut from $or also (the one I took off was too buggered up). The 'sleeve' is still available #90410-25041, about 8.50 or so. I used stainless studs in the manifold. It is NOT a fun job...but once you're done, you'll be proud ;)

If you do your mechanical work as well as you manufacture your parts, you will have done a great job!

Skip
 
The trouble with that crows-foot wrench, is it's very very difficult to get the required torque on it to break free the rusted-frozen nut; You will most likely bugger it badly. I posted in the 60-section a pic of a cheap Harbor Freight tool I cut down to allow for whacking with a piece of 2x2 and a BFH. I got the idea from Mark A. of Mark's Off Road who actually cut and machined a tool for exactly that purpose. I'm guessing he's prolly had to mess with multiple hundreds of those bastids over his 25-years in bid-ness.

Once the cooler nut is out and drawn back from the cooler and the nuts removed from the flange of the J-tube the tube will wrestle out. You might be able to remove the broken studs with patience, aerokroil, heat, and vise-grips. Worked for me.
 
Got the new gasket in!

>> Don't mess with the big nut - Check
>> All the work is from the bottom - Check
>> There are only two bolts holding the EGR cooler to the block - Check
>> The cooler bolts may look rusty but they come right out - Check

I love this battle-tested group! After I saw the advice, it took only about 40 minutes to get the gasket in. What it entailed was to loosen the 2 EGR cooler bolts (without fully taking it out), which resulted in enough wiggle room to slip the gasket into the end of the pipe. I still need to deal with the stud, but that will be the battle for another day.
 
After I got this job squared away with a new gasket, not only did I address the exhaust noise upon acceleration, I also noticed an improvement in my power brake's pedal feel.

Light bulb moment...

With the torn gasket, I must have been losing some vacuum from the intake manifold! Vacuum drives all kinds of functions under the hood, including the brake booster. That's one heck of an important gasket!
 
After I got this job squared away with a new gasket, not only did I address the exhaust noise upon acceleration, I also noticed an improvement in my power brake's pedal feel.

Light bulb moment...

With the torn gasket, I must have been losing some vacuum from the intake manifold! Vacuum drives all kinds of functions under the hood, including the brake booster. That's one heck of an important gasket!
I just tried to replace mine yesterday, the nut came off but the by broke off near the gasket. Did you ever get the bolt out? I am going to try to get it with an easy out but not sure if it will work. i will just loosen the cooler and replace with one bolt if I'm unable.
 
The stud broke off as well when I did mine, did you ever get it out? My precious post was kind of confusing.
 
The stud broke off as well when I did mine, did you ever get it out? My precious post was kind of confusing.

My stud broke pretty far down the hole, so I elected to leave it alone. I didn't want to risk drilling into the manifold.

The new stud will not go all the way in, so I simply added a couple of lock washers ahead of the nut to make up for the spacing. It worked out very well.
 
Mine did the same broke about where the manifold starts. So you added lock washers to the good side and just left the other side without a bolt? I have the SOR gasket bought it from them the other day. I have two of the double threaded bolts, not sure what they are called.
 

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