Replacing carb, what to choose (1 Viewer)

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Jan 8, 2003
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1968 FJ40, 1971 F motor with headers, factory vacuum advance distributor, mechanical fuel pump, cable throttle linkage, no emission control, no return fuel lines to tank, original 3 speed trans and transfer case.
It still has the Rochester 2G carb I put on it back in 1977, and I'm ready for a new carb (tired of rebuilding the old Rochester, which I never really liked anyway).
I don't do any serious off-roading with it, I don't do any serious highway driving (I use my FJ60 for that), I just need to get it running again. (I've had it 40 years this summer, and would like it to be running on its anniversary...)
What should I replace it with? Read lots of opinions on Webers, some pro-, some con-.
So, Weber? 32/66 or 38? Do I need a fuel pressure regulator? What jets to run for western Colorado? (I live at 4500 feet, travel up to about 10,000 foot elevations on occasion.)
If not a Weber, what is the alternative? Why?
 
I recently put one of Marshall's @Trollhole carbs on a 60 and was very impressed.
 
@Racer65 has some sweet new offerings including OEM but for 2F so not sure if it will work for you. Plus the OEM requires the return fuel line which you indicate you don't have. Just some other options to consider. The aftermarket Japanese one doesn't appear to require the return fuel line.

Shutterfly
 
Just get a 1F carb from classifieds here or Mark Algazy and go with that. Factory everything, no fuel pressure regulator, adapter plates, or any of that nonsense.

Plenty of power, "good" fuel economy, runs well off road. No emissions to worry about.
 
Don't put a Weber on it , as much as I like them on other engines there is no reason to use one on a Cruiser - the kit is crap and even the 38DGAS is too small in cfm . There really is no way to install a decent Weber that will support the engine and fit properly without making the kit price north of $750 , it would require the use of a 40-42DCNF and a lot of bellcrank linkage work , not to mention adapter plates and a separate air cleaner .

Either get the Trollhole or go with an oem carb - can't go wrong - especially at the elevation you run at .

Sarge
 
TBI conversion, probably the most work to install, but you'd no doubt be happiest with the results (drivability & efficiency).
 
OK, consensus so far seems to be Trollhole carb or OEM, and nobody seems to like the Weber.
SOR and Man-A-Fre have been selling them for years, so I assume they're selling them to someone...Are there any satisfied Weber owners out there? So, can anybody weigh in on why they like the Weber?
(TBI is not an option here. Not cost-effective for my purpose. This is an old truck that will only see about a thousand miles a year.)
 
SOR and MAF are not manufacturers, they sell "what comes in a box and goes in a box" Guess what, Weber kits come in a box and go in a box, gives them a carburetor choice to sell.
 
It sounds like you are looking for reasons to use a Weber carb.
No, not really. I don't disagree with the opinions against them. Just wondering if there were any opinions in favor of them out there.
I only know one person with a Weber (on a 1984 FJ60). He seems to be happy with it, but I don't consider a sample size of one to be an adequate survey on which to base a decision.
 
You can install whatever you like , some even use the old junk Rochester units , Solex and others including the Holley 5200 DGV knockoff . But , when it comes to a Cruiser engine , nothing works as well as the original Toyota design including desmogged copies like Trollhole's unit and others . A true , desmogged , Japanese-manufactured carb is the best choice , in my opinion .

The current market Weber carbs that are available are all Spanish castings - Italian originals are extremely rare and highly sought as they work a lot better and last much longer . The newer Spanish versions are crap and getting worse , the last one I saw last year right out of the box required 2hrs of my time to correct casting issues since the owner didn't want to send it back . The amount of leakage in the throttle shafts is horrible , it never wants to idle consistently and the base was warped .080" across the corners - new . When I built/repaired/modified DGV's years ago they were a lot better , always got excellent power and mileage out of them considering the cost invested . However , one thing that has never changed is the crappy install kit - it just doesn't work out correctly on a Cruiser engine bay .
Rant off , I'm done ...

Sarge
 
Opinions are of little consequence.

There are satisfied users of Weber carbs. The typical customer has an undriveable truck, installs a Weber of some sort, truck becomes driveable. Satisfaction.

The fact is that Weber as a brand makes excellent carbs. I've used them on almost every race car and hotrod streetcar I've owned.
They don't make one to fit a Cruiser engine.
 
I have ran a trollhole carb for.about six years with no issues. Just don't run that e85 crap in them.
 
I have an oem/factory carb i just pulled off my 1f motor from a 64' 40. if interested i'll go grab a pic from the garage. I'm swapping to a v-8
 
Opinions are of little consequence.

There are satisfied users of Weber carbs. The typical customer has an undriveable truck, installs a Weber of some sort, truck becomes driveable. Satisfaction.

The fact is that Weber as a brand makes excellent carbs. I've used them on almost every race car and hotrod streetcar I've owned.
They don't make one to fit a Cruiser engine.

Absolutely agree - true Weber carbs are not the DGV series to start with - that series was designed for the US market to be used as retrofit kits on a budget . The genuine Italian casting Webers are phenomenal and perform far above anything else - if tuned correctly . There are no 40-42mm progressive carbs from Weber that would work on a Land Cruiser , only the DCNF or DCNVH models could work but even that would require some custom manifold cutting to flow properly . Hence , my whole issue with using any Weber on a Cruiser's inline six - nothing really fits it . Biggest issue is having the intake/exhaust ports on the same side of the cylinder head - if it were a crossflow design it would be easier to fit 3 side draft models , then we could talk ...

Sarge
 
@Racer65 has some sweet new offerings including OEM but for 2F so not sure if it will work for you. Plus the OEM requires the return fuel line which you indicate you don't have. Just some other options to consider. The aftermarket Japanese one doesn't appear to require the return fuel line.

Shutterfly

The OEM and after market carbs that Racer65 is selling, only have 1 vacuum port and don't require return lines. I just installed a new OEM Part # 21100-61012 on my 84 and it runs like a dream! Next time around, I may even try the quality aftermarket 21100-61012 he carries.
 
If the stock carb intimidates you, get a Rochester. They are roilet-bowl simple...and toilet bowl efficient.

If you're shying away because of cost, just remember: you can pay now, or you can pay later.

Best

Mark
 
If the stock carb intimidates you, get a Rochester. They are roilet-bowl simple...and toilet bowl efficient.

If you're shying away because of cost, just remember: you can pay now, or you can pay later.

Best

Mark
Mark,
I currently have a Rochester 2G. It's been on the truck since 1977 (or was it 1978?). Rebuilt it several times. Simple it is... but never really liked it. Always had a bit of a stumble at initial throttle tip-in that I could never tune out.

Since I've decided it's time to replace the Rochester, I have to decide what to replace it with. Lots of options, which to choose? So, I'm here to listen to what others have to say about their experiences. Stock carbs don't intimidate me, and cost isn't the major concern.

(Actually, I wasn't that unhappy with the original 1-barrel that my Cruiser came with, but I couldn't find parts for it on the East Coast back in the late 70's. Being young and stupid, the Rochester seemed to be a reasonable alternative. I have learned from that decision. I'm no longer young, and trying to be less stupid.)
 

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