Replacement of the VSV (in Spanish) (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 7, 2006
Threads
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Location
Aragon, Spain.
REPLACING THE VSV

Ok, Here is shown how to replace the VSV, Vacuum Switching Valve. This valve generates a persistent CEL, and can cause an excessive fuel consumption. The ODB II error shown is a P0401 – EGR insufficient flow.

In this disassembled intake you could see the VSV. It's hard to see, It's in the intake chamber (seems a jail, each cilinder intake as its rungs) This first photo is from a previous alia176 post:

vsvhosepinch.JPG


First is to unplug the vacuum hoses. Replacing them could be a good idea. This guy used fuel 6mm inner diameter hoses.

101_1615a.jpg


101_1617.JPG


second thing is to aside the admission support bracket:

101_1618.JPG


This support bracket should be loosen on its base, below the car. It's quite complicated…

101_1619a.jpg


You don't need to unbolt it completely. It's just to aside it. Although everything You should have little girl hands, as he does, to work inside the intake chamber.

101_1620.JPG


Once the support bracket is asided, You should loose the EGR vacuum modulator (the green mushroom):

101_1637.JPG


101_1628b.jpg


Don't forget to unplug the vacuum hose attached to the VSV. (arrowed in purple) This guy broke down that hose. Arrowed in green is one of the two screws that hold the VSV. Both need a 12mm key. The other screw can be seen inside the chamber, it's too arrowed in green on the next photo.

101_1621a.jpg


Arrowed in purple, hard to see, is the VSV. Loose both screws, one from the left side of the intake...

101_1622a.jpg


…And one from below the car. It's not difficult to see. (arrowed in purple). You can see too the VSV from below (arrowed in purple). Both screws are hardly screwed and it's easy to pass their heads off...

101_1624b.jpg


101_1625.JPG


Not much orthodox, but it makes its function. You can see here how. The VSV electrical plug is arrowed in purple.

101_1626a.jpg


Once loosen the VSV, don't forget to unplug the other vacuum hose and the electrical plug.

101_1629.JPG


Detail of this second vacuum hose:

101_1630.JPG


And from the electrical sensor plug:

101_1631.JPG


Once out, unscrew the old VSV and place the new one. Quite simple.

101_1632.JPG


New VSV (Toyota Part code 90910‐12079)

101_1635.JPG


voilá.

101_1636.JPG


Mounting is the reverse. Don't forget any screw, hose or plug.

Excuse this pathetical English. (Again)
 
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CAMBIAR LA VSV

Bueno, aquí explico cómo cambiar una válvula del EGR que genera un montón de problemas. La VSV, Vacuum Switching Valve, Válvula Conmutadora de Vacío. Esta válvula conmuta el vacío que maneja la EGR. Su fallo provoca que salte un CEL (Check Engine Light), aunque el motor funcione correctamente. (bueno, aparentemente, porque el consumo se dispara como consecuencia). Conectando al ODB II el error que muestra es el siguiente.

P0401 – Retroalimentación gases de escape: cantidad demasiado pequeña.

Y ya se puede hacer lo que sea, el error no desaparece ni de casualidad. Una foto de la admisión desmontada: (cortesía del foro de Ih8mud): Como se puede apreciar, la válvula está montada en un sitio un poco puñetero, dentro de la jaula de la admisión:

vsvhosepinch.JPG


Como primera medida, conviene apartar los tubos de vacío. Yo aproveché para cambiarlos, los vi un poco perjudicados. Utilicé manguito de gasolina de 6mm de diámetro interior.

101_1615a.jpg


101_1617.JPG


Lo segundo es apartar el contrafuerte que sujeta la admisión con el bloque motor:

101_1618.JPG


Este contrafuerte hay que soltarlo también desde abajo del coche, está un poco complicado…

101_1619a.jpg


No hace falta soltarlo del todo, se trata simplemente de apartarlo para que no estorbe. Aún con todo necesitaréis de unas manos de niña como las mías, para manejaros dentro de la jaula de la admisión.

101_1620.JPG


Una vez apartado dicho contrafuerte, conviene soltar el modulador de vacío del EGR (la seta verde):

101_1637.JPG


101_1628b.jpg


Es importante soltar una de las acometidas a la VSV que queremos cambiar (la de la flecha) hay que tener cuidado pues el tiempo “pega” los tubitos y es fácil romperlos. (flecha violeta). Yo me lo cargué. Uno de los dos tornillos que sujetan la VSV se ve desde aquí, (flecha verde) aunque yo no lo aflojé desde este lado.

La VSV está atornillada a una chapa que, a su vez, está sujeta por dos tornillos. Ambos son para una llave de 12mm. Uno es el que acabo de señalar con la flecha verde. El otro se ve desde dentro de la jaula. También lo señalo con una flecha verde.

101_1621a.jpg


Con un poco de esfuerzo, se puede ver la VSV (flecha violeta). (Está escondida, la puñetera): Se trata de soltar ambos tornillos Uno desde el lado izquierdo del coche...

101_1622a.jpg


…Y el otro lo solté desde abajo. Se ve sin dificultad (flecha violeta) También se ve la VSV (flecha verde). Con un montaje un poco peregrino, pero eficaz. Ambos tornillos están muy fuertemente apretados y no es difícil pasar la cabeza del tornillo.

101_1624b.jpg


101_1625.JPG


Poco ortodoxo, pero hace su función. En esta otra foto se ve cómo. También se puede apreciar la VSV, esta vez la flecha violeta marca su enchufe.

101_1626a.jpg


Una vez sueltos, hay que soltar el otro manguito y el enchufe eléctrico.

101_1629.JPG


Aquí un detalle del manguito:

101_1630.JPG


Y esta es una imagen del enchufe:

101_1631.JPG


Una vez fuera, desatornillamos la vieja válvula y atornillamos la nueva. Es bastante simple.

101_1632.JPG


Una vista de la nueva VSV (código de recambio Toyota 90910‐12079)

101_1635.JPG


Y voilá.

101_1636.JPG


Ya solo queda volver a montarlo todo en su sitio. (No os olvidéis ningún tornillo, manguito o enchufe).
 
Outstanding job Paso. If someone will help with the translation then I think this would be FAQ material. I have described this simple process in words about 20 times. The pictures make it very clear.

Admission=Intake
Jail=chamber ( ? I am not sure about this one)
support column = brace (or bracket)
unmounted = disassembled

One other suggestion would be to give credit to the 'Mud members that supplied photos that you used. For example, I recognize that first picture as one that Alia176 posted a few years ago.

Again, this is great information for one of the most persistent problems that the 1FZ-FE guys have with US spec 80s.

-B-
 
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Great job dude .. not usual see here procedures in Spanish .. nice ! for future reference in anyone need help with translations, drop me a PM ..

Jail = prision but I thought he try to means the complicated and reduced space under the intake ?

P.S. with my hands I see me unmounting all intake .. :frown:
 
My thanks to the original author and for the effort put into the great translation. I had to put in a new VSV in my '97 FZJ80 today and I was all prepared to pull off the air chamber following Toyota's manual and advice from my local dealer. I stumbled across this article and decided to try it and everything worked out great.

Yes, it would be nice to have "little girls hands", however, even without I was able to get everything done from up-top with the exception of loosening the lower bracket.

One comment that I would like to make is that at the same time I changed the VSV I also changed the EGR valve. With the latter out of the way, it is much easier to get at the VSV as the authors state. Whether or not one would like to pull it off (EGR) just to get at the VSV is debatable because it too has it's difficulties.

Muchas Gracias...
 
er is there supposed to be only one pic? I get the feeling, after reading through both languages, that there are many missing images.
 
I see all the pics. Try reloading the page?
 
No need to belabor this but I too see all the photos. Just takes a short moment to load. They are very accurate and clear and were a big help to me. As a photographer myself, they're very well done. I didn't see any need to add any others.

Eric
 
Did this the other day (and I could never be accused of having little girl hands!) I also managed to replace every piece of vacuum hose under the intake manifold without removing it, so it can be done! It's a good thing I did as the hose that goes from the plastic T fitting to the port on the intake manifold (visible in the top pic) was definitely original from 1996. It was dried out and cracked and obviously not sealing to the T or the nipple on the intake manifold. The other lines weren't as bad, but definitely dry and heading that way.

Both ends looked like this
IMG_3508.JPG


This may have been the cause of my P0401 and not the VSV (I don't fully understand how the system functions) but at this point I'm happy to have new vacuum lines and VSV in there. I also wonder if this leaky hose might somehow be involved in the boiling gas troubles that some people seem to be having at elevation, since it does provide vacuum to both the VSV for EGR and the VCV for EVAP. Might be worth looking into for someone with this trouble.
 
Thank you for this thread!!! I saved over $300 and less than an hour because of this thread with the pics and instructions layed out perfectly. Cleared the code and now no CEL!!!! Sweet, I feel like I am driving a new LC because of the no CEL on. What a pain in the kiester though. The 3ft extension was interesting but worked fine, even when threading it back in. Going back took a total of 10 min vs the near 45 min of taking it all apart. Thanks again
 
That's a great write-up and photo's ... does the Spanish version advise that it is not necessary to remove the "green mushroom" to R&R the VSV for EGR?
 
It doesn't say to not remove it. I unplugged the bottom Vac line and removed the Green or red topped? bracket and set it aside. I did not fully remove-just the Tension bracket that holds it in place.
 
Thanks for the great pics and the nice write-up.
I need to tackle this VERY soon...I just failed smog due to a P0401 :mad:
okay...to be totally truthful, I cleared the P0401 code right before going in for the smog check and ended up failing because the ecu wasn't able to complete all the required engine system checks...so while I passed the tailpipe emissions with flying colors, the MIL check failed.

I get a free retest...but I think it best if I replace the VSV and the hoses first.
 
Thank you Thank you Thank you

This was extremely helpful. I just finished changing my VSV following these steps exactly. No CEL after running for several minutes. I scanned the ODB II and have only one readiness code left to set (cat converter). I understand I can pass the Smog check with only one readiness code. Woo Hoo. Thanks again.
 
No CEL after running for several minutes. I scanned the ODB II and have only one readiness code left to set (cat converter).


Keep in mind it usually takes 3 complete start/drive cycles for the PCM to re-learn.....

That's going from cold (open loop) to operating temp (closed loop) 3 times....

If you don't throw a code by then, you should be good to go :cool:

Just don't make the mistake of clearing it during the learning process or it will start all over again, giving you the impression that it's fixed only to come back later on down the road :doh:
 
Update - Smog check passed this AM

I actually did cycle it three times yesterday although I didn't go to full cold again. The borrowed fault monitor I was using gave me readiness codes on everything except the cat. converter. From looking at some ODB II discussions on the web, I understood that the EPA smog test will tolerate one non readiness due to some vehicles being real persnikity about meeting the readiness criteria.

This morning, my wife took it to the smog station after about 50 minutes of driving and it passed the test.

I'm a happy camper right now. I have been staring at that P0401 for two years since I squeaked by the last smog test. A looming failed smog test finally energized me enough to search again for a solution. The hardest part was getting a good hold on the forward bolt and breaking it loose with different combinations of end wrenches and sockets. Thanks again iH8mud.com.
 
No More CEL!!!

I used this method to replace the VSV last week. I also pulled the sensor and cleaned it (lots of buildup) and replace the vacuum hoses. CEL has not returned.

I was kidding myself to think this would be a quick change. There is little space to do anything, which really made a simple fix take a long time. The author was not kidding about the 'girl hands' thing.

I am really happy to have this done, but it was a :censor: working in that tight little space. Makes me really appreciate how easy it is to work on the 60.
 

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