Repair Stihl Chainsaw Oil Pump (1 Viewer)

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chainsaw oiler

I can't get any oil to come out the oiler hole for the chain. I read other posts and nothing visably wrong. How can I tell if the wire attached to the plastic gear is worn. when I turn it by hand the metal gear going to pump turns almost too easy. Should there be some resistance? I blew air through the little metal vent hole(I guess thats what it is) and air comes out into oil resevoir. I cant get to the oil filter/strainer, the tube is too short, did spray carb. cleaner into it ,didn't help. any advice to fix this would be appreciated, Thanks! ms 250 Stihl 6 yr.old
 
Stihl 030AV Oiling Problem

Hello. This is a great thread on the vintage Stihl saws, better than any I've seen even on the sites devoted to saws, and I've been reading them for almost a year. Thanks!

I have two problems with my 030 I'm hoping someone can help me with. I overhauled it with new rings and crank bearings, and now it's leaking lots of bar oil from the 'state of Michigan' shaped oil pump cover. It doesn't look like it ever had any seals in this area, and the photos posted earlier in this thread suggest this area is supposed to be dry. It leaks lots of oil, even when the saw is not running.

I've spent tons of cash and time trying to get this saw running again, I considered dumping it for a new saw, but the 030 has a 51 cc engine, and replacing that would be something along the lines of a 290 Farm Boss, almost $400, so maybe this one is worth a few more dollars and a little more of my time. When it was running, it cut like a beast and I really loved it.

I can post photos if needed. Thanks in advance for any help.
 
The simpliest thing is to check the gasket between the oil pump and the crankcase. Make sure yours is in good working order.

There were a few different pumps for the 030. Some used a seal on pump housing where the gear fits onto the shaft.
 
When I took it apart, I didn't see a gasket behind the oil pump. It leaked oil then, but leaks much worse now. It appeared only to have 2 rubber nipples, which I made sure to put back. Could they be in backwards or something?

Or are you saying the shaft seal on the big gear might be bad? I never had that apart. I tried to, but wasn't sure how. The gear is plastic so I didn't want to pry on it. Should I remove the other screws in the pump first before trying to remove the shaft with the big gear? I'm assuming it then has an O-ring inside.

Thanks again for your time.
 
Stihl 030AV Oil Pump

I removed the pump, and disassembled it. The main shaft wobbles in the hole, so I suspect whatever seals it may be what's leaking. I didn't pry the shaft out, and don't want to break this $60 pump. How does this shaft remove from the housing?

This second photo shows a hard black plastic part that may or may not have been an O-ring mounted behind the pump.

The two parts I referred to in the last post as 'nipples', are actually just very thick O-rings that make the seal between the pump and the crankcase, and they are still installed in the openings (not shown on the back side of this pump). I didn't see anything that looks like it ever had a regular gasket.


Thanks.
shaft.JPG
oring.JPG
 
Stihl 030AV chain clutch sprocket

I found a NOS oil pump for $20, installed it, and the worm gear shaft feels much tighter. But I've got another problem. This one should be easy.

I put the saw back together, and after it runs for about 40 seconds, the clutch spider tightens itself against the sprocket hub so tight that it will have full time chain operation, in other words, no clutch. At the same time this happens, the nut on top of this assembly spins itself loose.

This has to be a simple mistake I'm making, or I'm missing something, but the Stihl service manual does not have an exploded parts diagram, and apparently the 031, 032 clutch assemblies are a little different from my 030.

Why does this keep coming apart?

Any help is appreciated, thanks.
 
Did you replace the sprocket drum/hub? If so, is the sprocket drum/hub a STIHL or an Oregon or some other brand?

The length of the inside sleeve (that is the outer sprocket bearing race) is different. The aftermarket companies do not get it right. They put a small washer on the crankshaft to act as a Spacer. It will go on after the sprocket drum and before the first large washer, then the clutch assy goes on and then the other large washer and then the nut.


I will try to get an assembly sequence of an 030 and post it up.
 
Did not replace sprocket drum, don't know if mine is original, but it worked previously. Saw has been apart for many months, so I can't entirely rule out having lost a spacer or something.

I have the 031/032 service manual (which says it's a replacement for the 030 manual due to mechanical similarity), but there are pictures of two different kinds of clutch assemblies, and mine is different from both! Surprisingly, it doesn't have a regular exploded view parts diagram. I've seen others online but have not been able to find one for the 030AV.

If I can come up with some kind of sleeve-type spacer, my problem may be solved.
 
The Stihl saga continues.....

I went to my local Stihl dealer who gave me a print out of the exploded parts diagram. It doesn't show a bushing or spacer with either clutch assembly.

From the hardware store, I used a small washer with the correct sized opening, and used the bench grinder to grind it around the outside as close as possible. I then used pliers and a file to tune it to the right shape. I installed it, tightened everything, and it works, and so far hasn't fallen apart, but I've only done about 15-20 minutes worth of cutting so far today.

It's basically the same old saw though, that I can't figure out what's wrong with. It cuts awesome but is difficult to start, and won't idle. I've been through the carburetor twice, checked the impulse tube, intake pipe, adjusted high and low jet screws both when warm and cold, I can't get it to idle well either hot or cold.

May end up with a new saw after all.....bet it won't last 40 years like this one did.....
 
The sprocket drum says Stihl on it, and I'm assuming it's for this saw originally. I don't think I lost a spacer, but I tried 3 or 4 times to put it together the way it was, and after running about 30 seconds the spider would tighten itself firmly against the clutch drum, and the nut would back itself off. It seems ok so far with the homemade spacer, but again haven't cut much yet.

When it's cold, it takes 10 or 12 pulls to get it to run, and it will idle for less than 20 seconds. When it's warm it idles for a moment, then falls off and dies. I've tried adjusting the mixture screws many times, as well as the regular idle speed adjustment screw. When I used it yesterday, it ran well enough if I stayed on the throttle, but would die right away if I let go of the trigger.

Before rebuilding it, last fall I took it to the Stihl dealer near me. They did it no favors for $100. They put in a carb kit which I thought it didn't need, because I had been in the carb a week or so before, and it looked clean, and the soft parts all looked good. I cleaned it anyway, and presumably so did they, but it runs basically the same. I knew it wasn't fixed when the 'mechanic' told me that it was 'cold natured' and needed to be run at wide open throttle for 15 seconds or so upon first start up. I knew it was wrong, but even doing it like that didn't get it to idle well.

I've read and heard that removing the carburetor, disassembling it and boiling it in water or lemon juice, etc, will clean it out in a way that regular carb cleaner or other solvent won't. It looked very clean inside, but do you think this is worth trying?

Thanks again.
 
D'Animal said:
I'm waiting for updates on the oil pump on the 028 and the throttle cable on the 4137 series FS80 (we made a 4112 series in the 1970's and early 1980's).
Click to expand...

Well, it's only about 3 years later, but I finally have an update! ;p

I adjusted the eccentric thingamabober at the carb and it did help a lot, but I'm still not getting WOT. It improved my problem with the cable dropping off for the most part, but it still occasionally drops off.

Is there something I can adjust in the grip? I didn't want to just go tearing it apart and there wasn't anything super obvious to adjust that was visible.
 
Had a pm regarding a question about an 028 AVESuper so I though I would post the answer up here as well.

The gear set up looks the same on all of the 028's. There is a drive gear that goes on the sprocket and a driven gear the slides into the oil pump. The driven gear on the 028 Super had a metal worm drive inserted in the middle of it. It is common for the gear to come off the metal insert when your remove the gear. If your driven gear is flat on both sides, the worn drive is still in the oil pump. You wil be looking at a round piece of metal that is splined stil in the pump. Grab that with a pair of pliers and gently pull and unscrew it to the left. There is a seal you do not want to damage when your remove it.
 
Hey folks. New to forum and need advice on accessing the fuel tank on an older Stihl 028 WB. I have one of these that I bought several years ago and never really used. Got it out a few days ago, started it by pouring fuel in the carb, but noticed what looks like a crack in the fuel line. Now I can't find the fuel tank! :bang:

Any help would be much appreciated.
 
Hope it is okay to place this request here. I have yet to figure how to start a new post.
 
Duh! Figured out how to start a new thread. Looks like I may need to research how to edit now. :rolleyes:
 
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