Repair Stihl Chainsaw Oil Pump (3 Viewers)
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The 028 has a driven gear that goes into the pump. It also has a driven gear that slide onto the sprocket.
There were two styles of drive gears, one has a metal worm on it and the other has a polymer drive worm. Generally the teeth will wear out were they mesh together. If the gear breaks it will not leak oil.
Where is yours leaking from?
There were two styles of drive gears, one has a metal worm on it and the other has a polymer drive worm. Generally the teeth will wear out were they mesh together. If the gear breaks it will not leak oil.
Where is yours leaking from?
STIHl MS310
Anyone know how to remove the engine block from the plastic case? My gray plastic case is cracked, got hit by my son's truck. I have a new case and everything stripped down to what you see, just not to sure how to remove clutch oiler or what else has to come off/flywheel? See pics
Anyone know how to remove the engine block from the plastic case? My gray plastic case is cracked, got hit by my son's truck. I have a new case and everything stripped down to what you see, just not to sure how to remove clutch oiler or what else has to come off/flywheel? See pics
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Clutch has to come off as well as your oiler gear.
It is a lot easer if the flywheel is off as well.
It is a lot easer if the flywheel is off as well.
There is no need for the tool.
Back the nut off so it is flush with the end of the crankshaft. One smart wack with a small ball peen hammer the flyhweel will come loose. It is a taper fit.
Do not use an impact on the clutch becasue you can shear the flyhweel key.
Back the nut off so it is flush with the end of the crankshaft. One smart wack with a small ball peen hammer the flyhweel will come loose. It is a taper fit.
Do not use an impact on the clutch becasue you can shear the flyhweel key.
It comes off to the right.
"Backwards" thread.
"Backwards" thread.
stihl ms310
Got everything apart I was hoping not to have to split the motor apart but it was the only way to get it out of the plastic case.
While putting the piston back into the cylinder I broke a ring. I barley pushed on it. Do you have to use a ring compressor to get back together or is there a trick to it?
Tomorrow I'll go get some new rings and post some pics of the reassembly...
Got everything apart I was hoping not to have to split the motor apart but it was the only way to get it out of the plastic case.
While putting the piston back into the cylinder I broke a ring. I barley pushed on it. Do you have to use a ring compressor to get back together or is there a trick to it?
Tomorrow I'll go get some new rings and post some pics of the reassembly...
The case does not need split to remove the motor.
The bore is tapered at the enterence so now ring compressor is needed. Just be careful.
The bore is tapered at the enterence so now ring compressor is needed. Just be careful.
Stihl 025 Oil pump
I seen the post to access the oil pump on a Stihl 028, I was wondering if anyone had any info on what needed to be removed to access the oil pump, oil hose and oiler gears for the 025 Stihl?
Any pictures?
The chain is not being oiled and the bar oil is leaking out where the sprocket is.
Thanks in advance, any help much appreciated.
I seen the post to access the oil pump on a Stihl 028, I was wondering if anyone had any info on what needed to be removed to access the oil pump, oil hose and oiler gears for the 025 Stihl?
Any pictures?
The chain is not being oiled and the bar oil is leaking out where the sprocket is.
Thanks in advance, any help much appreciated.
I know you posted pictures with instruction on this, but I cannot find them now. Can you provide a link to this info or just email the info to jrmelson@hotmail.com. Thanks for your help.
splitshot
Head cook, Bottle washer, and Peace keeper.
Dan's probably on the road again..
If your in a hurry, talk to your dealer, I have found them extremely helpful.
Instructions on what?
This thread sure popped up at a convenient time!
I recently purchased an 026 and it seems to be over-oiling (it's not the PRO model with the adjustable oiler). I started it up, ran it for a couple minutes at idle and revved it up a few times (I have nothing to cut here at home). I turned it off and noticed that the bar has a lot of oil on it, and that there is a lot of oil inside the chain sprocket cover. Does this sound normal, or is there something I should be looking at?
The saw also died a few times when I turned it on it's side while idling. Is this normal?
I realize the questions are somewhat vague, but I'd appreciate any input!
I recently purchased an 026 and it seems to be over-oiling (it's not the PRO model with the adjustable oiler). I started it up, ran it for a couple minutes at idle and revved it up a few times (I have nothing to cut here at home). I turned it off and noticed that the bar has a lot of oil on it, and that there is a lot of oil inside the chain sprocket cover. Does this sound normal, or is there something I should be looking at?
The saw also died a few times when I turned it on it's side while idling. Is this normal?
I realize the questions are somewhat vague, but I'd appreciate any input!
When cutting wood, the oil is absorbed by the wood and is never seen.
The seat of the pants way to check you oiler is to actually cut wood for a tank of fuel. You should have approx 20% of the oil left when you are out of fuel. The oil will "fling" off. Motor oil will fling off a lot more than bar and chain lube. Bar and Chain lube has a Tackifier in it that makes it sticky and clings to the chain.
As far as dying, it could be as simple as the fuel filter could be in the wrong position in the tank. The fuel lines get stiff and they will not allow the filter to follow the fuel when turned on its side. Fill the tank all the way up and do the same test.
The seat of the pants way to check you oiler is to actually cut wood for a tank of fuel. You should have approx 20% of the oil left when you are out of fuel. The oil will "fling" off. Motor oil will fling off a lot more than bar and chain lube. Bar and Chain lube has a Tackifier in it that makes it sticky and clings to the chain.
As far as dying, it could be as simple as the fuel filter could be in the wrong position in the tank. The fuel lines get stiff and they will not allow the filter to follow the fuel when turned on its side. Fill the tank all the way up and do the same test.
Thanks for the reply Dan.
I topped the tank up with Stihl summer weight bar oil, but it was half full before (red oil) so it may have been winter weight in there. I'll get a chance to do some cutting this weekend so I'll have a better idea of how much it's using, and I'll keep the 20% figure in mind.
The fuel tank was topped up, so I don't know if it was related to fuel level. I did notice a little bit of fuel inside the air filter cover, in the bottom rear corner closest to where your front right knuckle sits when holding the rear handle. I couldn't see any visible cracks or leaks though. Any ideas there?
I topped the tank up with Stihl summer weight bar oil, but it was half full before (red oil) so it may have been winter weight in there. I'll get a chance to do some cutting this weekend so I'll have a better idea of how much it's using, and I'll keep the 20% figure in mind.
The fuel tank was topped up, so I don't know if it was related to fuel level. I did notice a little bit of fuel inside the air filter cover, in the bottom rear corner closest to where your front right knuckle sits when holding the rear handle. I couldn't see any visible cracks or leaks though. Any ideas there?
You should be able to see a visible leak if the fuel tank is cracked.
The fuel line could have a crack in it.
The air filter can get wet from "Spitback" from the engine.
The fuel line could have a crack in it.
The air filter can get wet from "Spitback" from the engine.
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