Removing the Load Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV) on a 62 (1 Viewer)

[CarcaineProblems]

There are plenty of posts on this, but my mechanic removed the Load Sensing Proportioning Valve (LSPV) and replaced it with a manual valve in a slightly different way. I wanted to get MUDs opinion on it:

1. Here's the mess of brake lines under the vehicle (2 photos). Basically a union for 2 of the lines and a third line is unused and left hanging (??)

2. Here's the manual proportioning valve right off the reservoir under the hood.

The brakes work great and the pedal feels much firmer. Just all around a great change (my LSPV was leaking badly).

Here's a link to the manual proportioning valve: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-260-12627/overview/


This looks differently than everyone else's setup - any comments??

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Manuchao runs without one. When I did my SOA lift I raised it to max capacity and welded the LSPV rod to the shock cross member. When my truck is fully loaded (which is almost always) I don't feel like the rear wheels will skid out of control. Never happened to me...

 

[tclndcrz]

I just removed mine last weekend. It only takes about 10 minutes to pull the extra line. It looks like he was in a rush. I cut the lines back so the splice was in line with the frame. Also I mounted the manual proportioning valve to the firewall to avoid excess stress/wear

 

[GLTHFJ60]

That's a much better solution than the factory LSPV if you are lifted (you are).

As for the extra line, if it were a problem, don't you think your brakes wouldn't work? As @tclndcrz said, just pull the line.

 

[CarcaineProblems]

@tclndcrz, good point about mounting the proportioning valve. @GLTHFJ60, I think you're right in confirming that loose brake line doesn't do anything. I think I'll trace it back to a good point to remove it. I don't need it hanging up anywhere.

Much appreciated!

 

[ntsqd]

Make a bracket and mount that p-valve. Vibration will kill those brake tubes and the odds are good that it'll happen on a Sunday morning 45.6 miles from pavement and 154 miles from any parts house (which isn't open on Sundays).

 

[CarcaineProblems]

Make a bracket and mount that p-valve. Vibration will kill those brake tubes and the odds are good that it'll happen on a Sunday morning 45.6 miles from pavement and 154 miles from any parts house (which isn't open on Sundays).

Thx. Got a few big trips planned this summer so I obviously cant have that. I will tackle it.


...via IH8MUD app

 

[Godwin]

I'd want a better solution for anchoring the brake line than the zip tie.

 

[TobyB]

Hey, don't knock those zip ties! My entire race car is held together with them...

t

 

[Godwin]

Hey, don't knock those zip ties! My entire race car is held together with them...

t

Guess it helps to cut down on weight.

 

[CarcaineProblems]

Im guessing the mechanic was out of duct tape?


...via IH8MUD app

 

[Randy88FJ62]

I'm swapping out rear brakes soon and want to tackle the LSPV clutter at the same time. Anyone know what pitch and diameter the brake lines are? I'd like to get a female to female union to eliminate the LSPV all together. Something like the second picture in the first post...

 

[GLTHFJ60]

3/16" is the common diameter of the toyota hard lines. M10x1.0 is the size/pitch of the inverted flare fitting.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Thanks. I'll look for a female to female union in M10 X 1.0

What angle is the flare?

Anyone have a link to something like this?

Or maybe I would just be lazy and order the manual LSPV off summit...

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Dude, you've been around long enough to know how to search! This stuff is well known. Drive down to your local AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts and I guarantee that they'll have M10x1.0 unions in stock. The flare is standard.

http://bit.ly/TUTRXw

 

[Randy88FJ62]

Sorry GLTHFJ60! I'm hopping on and off the forum in between working so I am doing my best not to waste all day on here!