Builds Removing SBC conversion, going back to Toyota. 1972 Frame Off (1 Viewer)

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JDC, did you get the caliper lines recently? I thought those were discontinued years ago.

BTW, I have a carb for you. Send me some dinero, or a pallet of root beer:beer:, to get it headed your way.

Thanks Jim. My dad got the lines with a bunch of misc. stuff that someone was giving away for shipping cost ($9.00) I think they are for a 60 but fit the 60 caliper to 40 dustshield.
 
This evening i tore down the center arm and drag link/pitman arm in anticipation of the rebuild kits that are in the mail. The grease is solid and will need a soak to get the rest of the parts out of the drag link.

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Blasted and painted center arm housing and arm.

Reassembled center arm by:

Install greased seal.

Grease inside of housing and insert greased brass bushing. Bend bushing tab into housing cavity.

Insert greased idler arm and pack the top with grease.

Insert spring and lock tab with tab pointing down.

Tighten main cap, back off a quarter turn and install lock bolt.

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After installing the power steering box and getting the frame drop brakeline in place, I am going to switch out the header for a 1F exhaust manifold for additional clearance.

The manifolds that I am coming across have the flapper rusted in place or missing. I am seeing both schools of thought but no concise info about it being necessary or not.

@FJ40Jim recommended a heat riser plate with the header.
 
Thanks Kurt, will that work as a replacement for the flapper in the exhaust manifold? How will cold start up be affected?

It will basically eliminate the function of the flapper in a stock intake/exhaust setup. But if you're running a header, it's a moot point anyway, you don't need a heat riser plate unless you have a cracked manifold. Start up will be colder, some use a heat riser kit to move coolant to that cavity but that won't really help anything until the coolant is warm.
 
It will basically eliminate the function of the flapper in a stock intake/exhaust setup. But if you're running a header, it's a moot point anyway, you don't need a heat riser plate unless you have a cracked manifold. Start up will be colder, some use a heat riser kit to move coolant to that cavity but that won't really help anything until the coolant is warm.

I'm planning on using the manifold...
 

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