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Recommendations on buying a 40

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by Keep, May 27, 2003.

  1. Keep

    Keep

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    I'm a very happy 80 owner, but I've been seriously considering getting a 40 as well. I know very little about them, other than what I've only recently read online. Based on some of the reading I've done it sounds like a mid 70s or later would be an ideal first time 40. Sound about right?

    There is one selling locally, because of the very wide range of pricing I see online I really don't know if this one is a priced right or not. Comments would be appreciated... I'm a complete 40 newbie here.

    1975
    120k
    all stock
    hard & soft top
    repainted last year, no known rust
    well maintained
    "very solid mechanically"

    Known problems are:
    Speedometer doesn't work
    Driver side door handle need to be replaced
    seats need to be recovered

    Asking $7900, negotiable.

    I have not seen the vehicle yet.
     
  2. ScottFJ40

    ScottFJ40

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    Sounds a bit high IMHO. And I am worried about the statement "no known rust" .I looked around for quite awhile before I got mine.
    Good luck. I am wanting to get an 80 myself.
     
  3. Keep

    Keep

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    When I asked about rust he said they had painted it last year, taking care of all they knew of. Thus my statement, "no known rust".

    Again, I haven't seen it yet, so I can't speak to the overall condition, but assuming its as descirbed.. what range should the price be in? I really haven't a clue.
     
  4. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

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    75+ is best for several reasons
    Better less rattly doors
    more powerful 2F
    4 spd
    disc brakes
    4.11 axle ratio
    79+ are best avoided because of poor steel so they rust easy
    unless its in good shape of course, and they have a 3.73 diff ratio=better highway, crappy offroad
    Later F's like 73-74 are not bad because they have a floor shift 3 spd, mechanical transfer linkage and an updated F that is nearly the same as a 2f sans bigger displacement
    Stay away from 68 and earlier, unless you want to do a LOT of upgrading.
    good luck
    Take a good 40 on one of those AOA trips and really show up the Rover guys. :slap:
     
  5. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

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    About that particular one-
    I spent $6250 for a '74 with almost all stock parts, either 90k or 190k on the odo :dunno: and a decent amount of rust, but with a well done undercoating, and a decent new paint job.
    If that is a good resto with solid engine and drivetrain its not way out of line.
    Friend of mine spent $12k on a '78 that is ALL stock with PERFECT frame up resto and very well running Weber'ed 2F. It drives better than many new cars I have driven. Looks better too. Go look at it, tell us what you find, get someone who has a 40 to look at it as well.
     
  6. IDave

    IDave

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    I don't recall where you live, and I really think it depends a lot on the market you are in as well as the condition of the car, but I would say that there are lots of '75s around, far more than '74s like Bailey's.  Also, I think the steel quality fell between '74 and '75, although not as much as it did on later years. I bet you can find a similar one in the 4000-5000 dollar range.  Maybe 2500 if you are in the right area.  6000 other areas.  I think that the $7900 asking price is way too much for what you describe.  But, then again, one man's trash is another man's treasure. :G
     
  7. cavsfj40

    cavsfj40

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    i guess you can just look at the brakes but it wont have discs unless it was a 9/75 or later. Mine is 4/75 and i had to do the mini swap. the quality of the steel shouldn't be an issue unless it is late 70s. The 75 i have was 8000 but there are none around and it is decently not rusty and was all original. I wouldn't pay 8k again but now I know where to look for the 40 series (south and west). I am in sw PA by the way.
     
  8. toddslater

    toddslater SILVER Star

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    The above statements ...no known rust and...taking care all that they knew of...certainly warrant some further investigation. Rust is evil :mad: and there are and have been many ways of taking care of it attempted. :stupid: Most without much success. :slap: If it were my nickel, I'd really like to see lots of pre-respray pics of the areas that have been "taken care of". If that doesn't scare you...then I'd sit down and have a few cold ones :beer: :beer: with the person who actually did the "taking care of". Light surface rust can be effectively taken care of by sandblasting. Bad cancer must be cut out completely and replaced with new steel patch or replacement panels (not a fan of dia plate and other backyard replacements here). If you become satisfied that the rig is solid and straight...and the mechanicals check out....buy it and have fun.
     
  9. Keep

    Keep

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    Are there any key spots I should check for rust, which may be an indicator of further deterioration?
     
  10. Junk

    Junk

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    Keep
    Spend some time in a 40 to make sure you really want one first. They are great trucks - just keep in mind leaf springs, some close to 30 yrs old and most need constant tinkering to keep running. This isn't necessarily bad, but just want to make sure you know the full deal.

    For rust, check out front floor pans, rear sill, bottom or rear doors or tailgate, rear fenders, more importantly the frame.

    Look for leaks.

    Check for leaking from the cowl.

    If allowed, put a front tire on a jack stand and look for play.

    Take a 40 nutcase with you that knows 40 's in and out, or at minimum take a digital camera or video cam with you and have someone very knowledgeable look it over first.

    If you see bootiefab - run.

    If it looks too good to be true - it is - run even faster.

    If it comes w/ hard top - check out how it seals to the truck.

    Just a few things that came to mind quickly.

    I bought mine in TX from a multimillionaire. No rust, a 77 in total stock form minus smog and with 31's on it. Paid 5,200 + 650 to ship it. There was no rust on it and ended up being a steal.

    Just make sure you know you want one, make sure you don't let emotion get in the way.

    Remember that this is an old vehichle and no matter what you buy it may need some major work even if everything first checks out ok.

    :beer:
     
  11. CruisinGA

    CruisinGA

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    yep I know about this :mad:
    This is because many 40's haven't been driven every day for many many years, mine ceased to be a daily driver sometime in the early 80's, so things start to freeze up, gunk up(brakes, clutch) and rust. Then when someone like you and I get them out and start driving them every day, the problems that were gradually appearing during the hibernation period begin to surface more rapidly. however, the more you drive it the better it drives, without any engine work so far, my cruiser has MUCH more power and drives about 15 mph faster on the highway than it did when I drove it home. I drove it as much last sunday as it was driven for the 5 or so years total before I bought it. If I were you I would look for one that is more original, despite worn, than one that has had a lot of repair done. For two reasons
    1. They are fun and easy to work on, and you know you did it right
    2. You don't know how the pre-purchase work was done, the worst are paint jobs without proper rust prep and body repair, like mine :mad:.