rear right drum self-braking? (1 Viewer)

[nica walker]

I tried to search something like this on the forum to avoid clutter couldn't find anything.

The right rear drum brake on my LJ78 keeps slowly braking on its own, say over a period of 2-3hours of driving, until its gets almost locked.
At first I backed it off a bit, but it keeps repeating the problem.

1. I have the diagram form the drum brakes, but am unable to identify what part allows for pressure release?

2.Could this be related to the e-brake cable?

Keep in mind I'm a noob in a 3rd world country

 

[jfrench]

I had a similar issue but it didn't take that long to develop. Traced it to a leaking wheel cylinder but took the opportunity to rebuild the rear axle with new bearings and seals as well as refresh the rear brakes with new drums, wheel cylinders, etc. I'd pull the wheel and drum have a look see.

 

[JuanJ]

I had a similar issue but it didn't take that long to develop. Traced it to a leaking wheel cylinder but took the opportunity to rebuild the rear axle with new bearings and seals as well as refresh the rear brakes with new drums, wheel cylinders, etc. I'd pull the wheel and drum have a look see.

Hello,

x2.

The Land Cruiser brake system is redundant, masking this symptom well after the leaking cylinder has given up the ghost. Have yours inspected and replaced; it is a good chance to change drums, bearings or any other component in need of repair/replacement.





Juan

 

[cruiserpilot]

47480/47480
When did you last do the brakes? This adjustor is R and L. Should you install it backwards the adjustor might be clicking
slowly the wrong way. This is the adjustment for tensioning the drum shoe against the brake drum. Pull the drum off, check that
this is all okay. If you have a broken or worn tensioning spring, 47430D then the shoes will push against the drum as well with no
mechanical means of releasing the tension after the brakes are applied.
Shoes and spring kits are cheap. Pull it apart have at it.
I just yesterday redid the rear springs on my Bj74, the shoes were burnt and swollen ( garbage ) and the drums got a touch up turn at the local shop for $15 each. It's a dirty
but fairly easy system to work on, brake clean and knee pads.

Or 47663/47664 is the clip responsible for holding the adjustor wheel. I'd look there to see if it is in place as well.

 

[nica walker]

good suggestions guys, thanks I appreciate it.
I'm taking it upon myself now to learn these things, being that I'm now in the mountains-in a third world country-where not many know what they are doing either so that being said, here's some more super noob questions

I had a similar issue but it didn't take that long to develop. Traced it to a leaking wheel cylinder but took the opportunity to rebuild the rear axle with new bearings and seals as well as refresh the rear brakes with new drums, wheel cylinders, etc. I'd pull the wheel and drum have a look see.

...what is the "wheel cylinder"?

...what I HAVE found:
-is that the shoes look good (other than a few shavings), they look full anyway still- had them replaced about 5 months ago.
-there doesn't SEEM to be anything leaking in there, unless a little bit of blackish oil buildup isn't the norm but I assume its part of the basic lubrication going on in there?

47480/47480
When did you last do the brakes? This adjustor is R and L. Should you install it backwards the adjustor might be clicking
slowly the wrong way. This is the adjustment for tensioning the drum shoe against the brake drum. Pull the drum off, check that
this is all okay. If you have a broken or worn tensioning spring, 47430D then the shoes will push against the drum as well with no
mechanical means of releasing the tension after the brakes are applied.
Shoes and spring kits are cheap. Pull it apart have at it.
I just yesterday redid the rear springs on my Bj74, the shoes were burnt and swollen ( garbage ) and the drums got a touch up turn at the local shop for $15 each. It's a dirty
but fairly easy system to work on, brake clean and knee pads.

Or 47663/47664 is the clip responsible for holding the adjustor wheel. I'd look there to see if it is in place as well.

-the adjustment bolt is configured going right to left, so I assume that's correct.
...one things I noticed though, in moving everything around, is that in pulling the e-brake cable, it forces the brake to keep adjusting to the next "click" or say tightening it, should it get to a point where it stops doing that, and keeps the shoe just slightly off the drum??

BTW Cruiserpilot, is your profile pic of a '85 BJ60?

Thanks!

 

[cruiserpilot]

Seems to be the way it works. It's '87 with 12H-T now. Nothing is original, I'd say except the radio
but it doesn't even have one of those.

 

[jblueridge]

Yes, the brakes are sort of self adjusting as long as the adjuster/star wheel assemblis are on the correct sides.
Maybe you have two Lefts instead of a Right and a Left?
Wheel cylinder is the hydraulic gizmo the brake lines and pipes lead into. Stubby metal cylinder with rubber seals or boots at each end. They eventually go bad, leak fluid and cause a mess.
There should only be a little grease in the rear brake area to help the shoes return to the "off" position.

Buy some brake cleaner spray and clean the shoes and drum, the rubbing surfaces.

Last winter water froze inside my hand brake cable. Brakes were locked on.
Maybe check to see if your cable moves freely?

 

[nica walker]

ok freezing not a prob here haha, but I think it moves pretty freely- I'll pay some attention to that...brake cleaner spray not accesible here...

ahh yes now I know that of course thanks! I'll look at that more closely as well

I'm assuming by star wheel assembly you are referring to the part with the teeth on it that locks to the tab thingy
...thanks for your guys' help,

 

[jblueridge]

Look at the lever arm that the parking brake cable attaches to on the back side of the brake drum. The lever should be sitting against the drum back plate. If it is pulled out by the cable the brake will be on.

I bet lacquer thinner would clean as well as the spray.

Yeah, the star wheel is the gear/sprocket deal.

 

[nica walker]

Ok, so it turns out to be simple maintenance I guess was the prob.
After complete disassembly/cleaning/reassembly and adjusting the emergency brake(cable stretched? it adjusted to it's limit)
everything works fine, I guess most simplest/overlooked thing for me.
I've only had it a few months...such a loooong list of stuff to do with this tractor, now to tackle cooling issues....sigh

 

[jblueridge]

I used a cable slack tightener for a while on my MGB.