Rear heater switch pin out (1 Viewer)

[tech_dog]

Can anyone provide the pin out for the rear heater switch in a 94?

I'm using an extra to control my offroad lighting. I've got it working, and can give it the normal dash ilumination, but I've been unable to get the green "low" or orange "high" indicators to come on.

What needs to be hooked up for the low/high indicators to work?

I've looked all over the FSM a half dozen times and I can't find the the control circuit, only the dash ilumination circuit.

Thanks,

T.

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

I just pulled one out of my 91 to use in my 97 (don't ask for what lol)


I'll play around with my meter tonight and see what I find if someone doesn't post up the color codes....




Rick

 

[Hayes]

Have you got rheostat control of the switch backlight?
Is that what you're asking?

I know that the green wire and the green/white wire are the two wires that will get you a backlit switch that will dim with the rest of the dash.

 

[tech_dog]

Have you got rheostat control of the switch backlight?
Is that what you're asking?

I know that the green wire and the green/white wire are the two wires that will get you a backlit switch that will dim with the rest of the dash.

Thanks Hayes and Snake,

I think I figured out my problem. It wasn't an issue with the backlight illumination. It was a problem with the lights that come on green or orange that indicate if the rear heater is in the low or high setting. I'm using the switch for a different purpose, but wanted the orange and green lights so that I'd know what mode I have my extra lights in.

The red and green lights only seem to come on when the load is actually there, and I was trying to figure it out on a bench before installing in the vehicle. Once i hooked up the wires I'd figured out, then testing the remaining wires against ground and positive got the thing working.

Now I just need to find a more secure way to wire up the switches. I'm having problems finding a molex connector that fits well. Any suggestions?

Ryan - I spent 2-3 hours replacing my dash last night as part of the install my new lighting switches the new "D" light. I got a laugh when I later came in here and saw that you were doing the same type of surgery. Our LC projects have been running in incredible parallells.

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

OK, I didn't get a chance to play with the switch until a little while ago, but here's what I found....

Going strictly from the meter (I have yet to run any juice through it)


Black/White Stripe = Common Source Input (Connect to Fused "+")

Blue/Yellow Stripe = Switched Low Output (Connect to Foglight 1)

Blue/Silver Dots = Switched High Output (Connect to Foglight 2)


Green/Silver Dots and White/Green Stripe each have continuity to the main bulb socket, so I figure they're for dimmer switch lighting (splice each into any other illuminated switch that works off the dimmer with matching color codes)


That leaves the Yellow/Silver Dots wire showing no continuity to anything, so I'm guessing it's a ground for the Low/High switched illumination (Ground "-")




Now, don't hold me to this as I have yet to actually test it with power or load, just letting you know what I found....






Rick

 

[gbell210]

The Heater switch, in stock form switches the ground side. and the Hi and Lo lights are LED's. So in stock form the Black/White wire is GND, Yellow is + and Blue/Yellow and Blue/Black are the Positive leads coming from the fan side. The picture below shows the STOCK switch wiring diagram.

To use it like a normal switch (where you switch the power side)... you'll have to open it up and de-soldier the LEDs and turn them both around.
After reversing both LED's, I wired mine as follows:
Yellow - Ground
Black/White - Power from park light circuit (or what ever you want for power in)
Blue/Black - Powered trigger for driving light Relay
Blue/Yellow - Powered trigger for Fog light Relay


The two green wires I didn't mess with and shouldn't matter which direction they go:
Green - Dimmer +
White/Green - Dimmer -

 

[tech_dog]

gbel - Thanks! The schematic is very helpful. Is that out of the electrical harness repair manual?

Snake - Where did you get that pig-tail you're using to expose the connections? I could really use one of those.

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

Snake - Where did you get that pig-tail you're using to expose the connections? I could really use one of those.

My 91's rear heat never worked, so I just did a little Nip/Tuck



gebell, thanx for the info on the LED's

I'm still a little confused though

How did tech_dog still get them to light up under load without flipping the LED's?






Rick

 

[gbell210]

That diagram is from the TEWD (Toyota Electrical Wiring Diagram) Its a seperate manual from the FSM.

The 2 ways I could see tech_dog getting the LEDs to work are:

1. NOT using a relay and providing power directly to the lights and then connecting the ground side of the lights to the Blue/Black and Blue/Yellow wires (basically the Blower motor in the picture is replaced with the lights)
OR
2. switching the Ground side of the Relays, so the relays would always have
12V going to them and this switch would connect/disconnect the ground side.

If there is some other way, I'd like to hear


Also, that pigtail in Snake's picture is the harness side (in your dash). I got my extra switch just like that and specifially asked for the harness connector, from a fellow Mud member parting out their rig.

-Gary

 

[tech_dog]

I'm still a little confused though

How did tech_dog still get them to light up under load without flipping the LED's?


Rick

I got them to light up by running the load in the normal direction. Since my goal is to let them switch one of two power sources and direct it to a load, i.e. run the switch backwards, I then flipped the diodes like Gary suggested.

It was surprisingly easy. Pop off the bottom cover, take out the light on the side, and the rest pops out fast enough that you'll say "damn... where do the springs and ball bearings go?"

The springs go under the copper, the ball bearing goes in the middle, and there are no delicate electronics near the diode solder point.

This was a quick fun one.

Thanks for the Mud support!!!!

 

[gbell210]

Another thing to note... I have a diode setting on my Multimeter that supplies voltage through a diode or LED. It lights up the yellow/orange LED in the circuit, but doesn't light the green one at all. I just had to trust my soldiering skills for the green LED when I reinstalled it., instead of being able to test it too

The green LED, must need a higher voltage or current than the yellow/orange one. But plugged into the LC, all works fine....

Now I just need to make an Icon for aux lights instead of the fan symbol. I turned the symbol upside down so I can tell the difference during the daytime... to bad it doesn't help at night when just the Fan symbol is illuminated

 

[RavenTai]

you can modify the rear heat switch to be used on the + side of a circuit by addign a separate ground.

see the text in the middle of this post

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=384419&postcount=4

 

[450 DUDE]

Man good stuff guys, this thread prolly saved me an hour or two ( and alot of @!*&*)


Thanks , Gentlemen You Rule!

ken

 

[98 SNAKE EATER]

I got them to light up by running the load in the normal direction. Since my goal is to let them switch one of two power sources and direct it to a load, i.e. run the switch backwards, I then flipped the diodes like Gary suggested.

Ahh, ok


I was under the impression you somehow got them to work without flipping the LED's



I actually plan on running mine with constant power (key-off) to suit my needs, so I won't need the LED's, just probably the backlighting





Rick

 

[tech_dog]

Ahh, ok


I was under the impression you somehow got them to work without flipping the LED's



I actually plan on running mine with constant power (key-off) to suit my needs, so I won't need the LED's, just probably the backlighting





Rick

I'm running +12v into one side, and I'm running a feed from my high beams into the other. In the "green" position, the aux lights will turn on with the brights. In the "amber" position the lights will stay on until the battery is drained.

I'm also using an extra antenna up/down switch to control a 12v digital dimmer on the aux lights. All that's stopping me is the pigtails I need for a permanant good connection to the switches.

 

[tech_dog]

I'm still looking. By any chance does someone have a wrecked 80 where they'd be willing to cut out the connector for the rear heater switch? The part I need looks like this, optimally with about six inches of wire hanging out the back:

I'd be willing to pay 1.5 x fair...

 

[450 DUDE]

I ordered a switch and pig tail from cruiser parts.net.
It took them a second try but I recieved the goods 15.00$ worth a shot


Good luck!

ken

 

[Cruiser804]

"Now I just need to find a more secure way to wire up the switches. I'm having problems finding a molex connector that fits well. Any suggestions?"

Pull the plug from the actual rear heated switch. Look for the 5 digit molded plastic number on the housing. This is the second half of the housing part number, 90980- XXXXX is the first half. If you PM this number to me I will look up the factory pin/wire splice part numbers for you. It maybe hard to see but it is there.

This will allow you to create a factory connection to second rear heater switch. The pins and splices are joined at the factory and are about 6 inches long. You can add a molex connection on the harness end that matches the harness you made.

 

[tech_dog]

"Now I just need to find a more secure way to wire up the switches. I'm having problems finding a molex connector that fits well. Any suggestions?"

Pull the plug from the actual rear heated switch. Look for the 5 digit molded plastic number on the housing. This is the second half of the housing part number, 90980- XXXXX is the first half. If you PM this number to me I will look up the factory pin/wire splice part numbers for you. It maybe hard to see but it is there.

This will allow you to create a factory connection to second rear heater switch. The pins and splices are joined at the factory and are about 6 inches long. You can add a molex connection on the harness end that matches the harness you made.

Per Dan, they are no longer serviced. He was able to get me connectors for other switches, but there's no joy on this one.

Dan made one up himself with the proper metal terminals, heat shrink, and silicon glue.

cruiserparts.net is going to hack one out of their vehicles for me, so I'm good to go.

Thanks everyone.

T.

 

[sandcruiser]

another thought:

for using the rear heater sw to do aux lighting, you could run the ground wire from a relay to the heater switch. Then run +12v (ign) to the yellow, black/white goes to ground.

seems to me that when on HI, the relay that is "grounded" to the black/blue wire will close and activate one set of lights

when LO, the other relay will ground/close and activate the other lights

middle=nothing

LEDS should work just fine.

I think.