I went straight to tearing down my 1994 and I've never been in another 80 series in winter, so I don't know how good or bad the main heater is. I'm inclined to delete the rear but don't want to lose the ability to heat the vehicle sufficiently. We can get colder here, but 20-30 is probably "normal" for winter. I'll need new hard lines to keep the rear. What does everyone think-- worth the effort or not?
Rear heater - delete or keep? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Brentok
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Keep. It cranks out some heat and comes in real handy when your windows fail in the middle of winter 
Like when you roll window down at the ATM and then ... fail That rear heater saves the bacon.
Like when you roll window down at the ATM and then ... fail
That rear heater saves the bacon.
2fpower
SILVER Star
If you ever have anyone in the back seat in the winter... keep.
If you want to be defrosting BEFORE you get to your desination.... keep.
If you delete, think about adding seat heaters.
If you want to be defrosting BEFORE you get to your desination.... keep.
If you delete, think about adding seat heaters.
Instead of replacing hard lines with new hard lines which is a pain use a good quality 1/2" hose like gates green stripe to replace all the hard lines and old rubber lines with single hose for each side so you won't have all the clamps and possible failure points as with the old factory set up.
I just bypassed mine last weekend. All the lines are still there and in decent shape. I wanted to get rid of a possible future failure point. If I feel like I need it this winter I can hook it back up fairly easily. I just don't think i'll need it in NC. I guess time will tell.
I just bypassed mine last weekend. All the lines are still there and in decent shape. I wanted to get rid of a possible future failure point. If I feel like I need it this winter I can hook it back up fairly easily. I just don't think i'll need it in NC. I guess time will tell.
Just bypass it.
If you feel you need it you can run the green gates like allready stated. One more thing, on summer if that heater valve leaks it gives the pass a hot seat. Through in a ball valve to stop it.
Hope this helps.
If you feel you need it you can run the green gates like allready stated. One more thing, on summer if that heater valve leaks it gives the pass a hot seat. Through in a ball valve to stop it.
Hope this helps.
I'm currently replacing my soft lines, so I'm in the keep camp. I like the cooling system having additional capacity to dissipate heat, I like having a rear heater for the reasons others mention above, and most of all I don't think we have enough data on the use of entirely soft hoses to replace the hard lines to say it is an adequate fix. I know a few Mudders have done it, but that's not enough data for me. I trust Toyota engineering a lot, and I don't trust the hose not to weigh down and break the zip ties, or the zip ties to cut the hoses over time. I am not convinced that the hose all the way back solution is equal in durability to the OEM mostly hard lines with short sections of hose. There's a lot of heat and vibration down there. Just my two cents.
Just to be real specific here, if you suspect a cooling system overload or HG failure, one of the emergency means of dealing with it is cranking up the heaters to dissipate the excess heat. You increase the capacity quite a bit by having the rear heater operational.
Not sure how far north it is in OK, but since you do live in Yukon
, I presume it gets cold, with some snow. The rear heat is very useful once snow is tracked in the vehicle or you have a full load of breathing humans, because it helps defrost the side windows from the excess condensation.
2fpower
SILVER Star
That is a great point. This summer when we were doing trails in Colorado, I had to turn all the heaters on several times. It would drop the temps from 208 to 198 really quick.
Just keep them. I'm redoing mine soon. they have lasted a long time and replaced correctly, they will last just as long again, maybe forever. I have kiddos in the back so heat is mandatory back there.
That seems like a reasonable idea, but if you do, paint the lines before install to avoid corrosion
I am doing a ls swap now and my lines are rusty as well. I think I will keep my rear heater and like your idea on the aluminum lines. So since we are so close, bend up two sets.. one for you, and one for me..
I like mine. I think I'll keep it
I bought mine with it already bypassed. We had the second coldest winter on record in CT last year and I didn't think I was lacking for heat. But if I had my choice, I would have kept it, just because. It doesn't seem like a priority to me though.
Your not gonna replace the hard lines without Pulling the engine..! 
Even If you pull the head you will have to bend the sh@t out of the lines to the point of mangling them. Trust me , do the Bypass..! Rear hard lines will go in fine, front, behind the engine around the trans and over the hill to Grandma's house aint happening. LOL
I have been doing research on the head gasket Issue. One of the overheating problems that lead to H/G failure is rear heater pipes. The front edge of the horizontal line under our rigs gets hit with stones. Stones chip off the paint and rust grows then new stone chips put pinholes that only leak under preasure when the rig is running. She will overheat because most people don't monitor fluids as we do. I would use rubber lines, and I have both sets of pipes. Good Luck Guys,,!
Even If you pull the head you will have to bend the sh@t out of the lines to the point of mangling them. Trust me , do the Bypass..! Rear hard lines will go in fine, front, behind the engine around the trans and over the hill to Grandma's house aint happening. LOLI have been doing research on the head gasket Issue. One of the overheating problems that lead to H/G failure is rear heater pipes. The front edge of the horizontal line under our rigs gets hit with stones. Stones chip off the paint and rust grows then new stone chips put pinholes that only leak under preasure when the rig is running. She will overheat because most people don't monitor fluids as we do. I would use rubber lines, and I have both sets of pipes. Good Luck Guys,,!
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I ditched mine and put a plate over where the lines entered the cab under the passenger seat. My lines were so rusty once I got them out I was glad I did this. I haven't missed the rear heat yet. But then again, I never carry any rear seat passengers, unless you count furry ones.
arcteryx
Supporting Vendor
This. The hard lines are impossible to change without removing the tranny. Keep the heater.
IIRC Beno demonstrated that if you split the forward set of paired heater lines into two separate lines by cutting the bracket that holds them together that you could then snake them into place one at a time. Not sure how/if he reattached the two lines side by side after they were in. The rear set of paired heater lines does not have to be split to install. I vote for keeping the rear heater however you decide to plumb it.
