I am starting a build on my 86 fj60 I'm wanting to have 35s and Yukon lockers and was wondering what axle shafts anyone is running in the rear there are chromoly kits for the front but haven't found anything for the rear. Is that because people haven't broken very many. I'm wanting to make it as bulit/idiot proof as possible.
rear fj 60 axle shafts questions (1 Viewer)
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Poly Performance makes chromo shafts for the rear.
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Aren't those just for full floater rear ends. I don't think the u.s. spec fj60 has a full float. Am I just going to have to cave an do a full float conversion or track down a 80 rear axle and swap it . I'm kind of ignorant when it comes to specifics of my 60 it was my high school ride and I just ran it stock with 31s till it sat for to long now I want to add some capability
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There are chromo rear shafts but issues were coming up with them wearing EXTREMELY fast.
See these threads:
http://nfcruiserheads.org/forum/index.php?topic=2112.0
http://nfcruiserheads.org/forum/index.php?topic=2982.0
These were run in a U.S. spec semi floating housing behind an Izuzu 4BD2T.
See these threads:
http://nfcruiserheads.org/forum/index.php?topic=2112.0
http://nfcruiserheads.org/forum/index.php?topic=2982.0
These were run in a U.S. spec semi floating housing behind an Izuzu 4BD2T.
I heard that PP had fixed the twisting spline issue. They only sell SF chromo axles for FJ60's, so you are in luck.l
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Be very careful, from what I hear Poly Performance is very reluctant to honor their warranties. Based on Steve's write-ups about the bearing surface wear I wouldn't run one in a semi-floating application, in my 80 series rear full floater however it's a non-issue. I'd run the stock shafts and carry spares, it's much cheaper in the long run. If you are keeping the stock motor even with lockers if you drive with a little bit of intelligence you'll be fine.
It depends on the type of wheeling you do. Some of the places we wheel in VA and PA are essentially rock gardens with large boulders and holes where there is a tendency to get wheel bound up and shock load the axle when it releases.
I would feel more confident with chromos in the rear if I were running a deep geared t-case and 35's or bigger. I upgraded my fronts to Longfields when I went to 37's, but was fine with stock birfs running 35's. I broke a stock rear short side with 37's and I don't hammer my rig or bounce much either.
I would feel more confident with chromos in the rear if I were running a deep geared t-case and 35's or bigger. I upgraded my fronts to Longfields when I went to 37's, but was fine with stock birfs running 35's. I broke a stock rear short side with 37's and I don't hammer my rig or bounce much either.
It took quite a bit to break my stock rears. (Towing a Early bronco up Cadillac hill, being wedged, V8, and in double low). So honestly, I would not worry about it.
If you are that concerned you should think about upgrading to a different axle..
If you are that concerned you should think about upgrading to a different axle..
Stock shafts are very strong, however after a while they get fatigued from twisting thousands of times(So does the pinion), plus most 60 shafts have seen quite a bit of street mileage. Fresh stock axle shafts should be strong enough for most people offroad if you have a traction bar up to probably 37s. They should be replaced every 5 years or so if you 4wheel often. Bigger than 37s should probably go to chromos. Also how much crap is hauled in the truck offroad affects it too. Ive seen guys with smaller tires but about 800lbs of tools in the back break a stock shaft, but they were probably old.
Only problem with using stock ones until you break is that the splines often get jammed in the diff and it requires pulling the other axle and 3rd to remove it. Done it, and didn't like it at all.
if you are already servicing the axle, and you have the $$ for chromoly, you might as well go for it all at once.
I was under the impression that whoever manufactures the axles for PP had addressed the bearing surface issue. But Idon't have confirmation of that. The bottom line here is PP are the only company supplying chromoly SF axles for FJ60s.
if you are already servicing the axle, and you have the $$ for chromoly, you might as well go for it all at once.
I was under the impression that whoever manufactures the axles for PP had addressed the bearing surface issue. But Idon't have confirmation of that. The bottom line here is PP are the only company supplying chromoly SF axles for FJ60s.
So far, the chromoly shafts have not proven to be a significant upgrade over stock shafts.
Honestly, if you need more strength than a stock axle, then upgrade the entire thing.
Honestly, if you need more strength than a stock axle, then upgrade the entire thing.
Really? I was under the impression, based on in person discussions I've had and threads I've read here, that the chromoly axles were more resilient than stock.
Does your experience apply to chromoly full floater axles as well. I ask because my intent is to build a FF from my stock FJ40 axle using @lcwizard FF brackets.
PP rear shafts have been problematic for a long time. I'm not sure of any actual breakage tests. however the 40 and 60 series Vehicles I have been aware of running them seem to snap as often as the stock shafts do.
The FF shafts are make by Nitro and should be a good upgrade.
The FF shafts are make by Nitro and should be a good upgrade.
Thanks. I was also told RCV can make custom length 30 spline axles for LC applications, but have not contacted them to confirm this and have not heard of anyone running them in the rear of a FF axle. Though, I suspect that if they can manufacture front axle shafts, they would be able to do custom lengths with the same spline specs for rear axle applications.
