Rear diff plugs (1 Viewer)

[RangerDave]

I'm in the middle of tuning up my '89 FJ62. Got just about everything done except, I can NOT, for the life of me, get the plug out of the diffs. The car is not on a lift or jacks, which I know is a disadvantage. I'm about to go get a breaker bar, but thought I would post here and ask for suggestions before I resort to brute force. Thanks in advance.

 

[cruiserman]

Just be sure you get the fill plug off first!

 

[nuclearlemon]

weld a nut to the diff plug. then crank it off.

 

[3_puppies]

Make sure you use a 6-point socket, I use that and a breaker bar, usually works

 

[woody]

also make sure you haven't ground down the boss around the plug....I grind mine on the rocks so much I gave up on the drain plugs and just remove the bottom-most diff cover bolt.

 

[RangerDave]

Thanks for the suggestions. 24mm 12 pt socket, 1/2" drive is what I'm working with. I'm basically a shade tree mechanic here, so the welding thing is out for me. I couldn't get the fill plug out either. I'm going to try the breaker bar when the weather clears: it's snowing here in the Colorado mountains. Some jackstands might be in order too.

 

[RangerDave]

Hmmm, cheater bar no help. Just started to strip the plug.
Woody, do you have any leakage problems? :dunno: I assume from your post that you're removing the bolts from the diff cover and breaking the seal, let it drain, then bolt it back. Is this right? On previous trucks, I always put a new gasket w/sealer when I did this.

 

[woody]

no seal is broken....only the bottom stud is removed...not JUST the nut, the entire stud. I actually replaced that stud with a bolt since I rely on that to drain...hole is smaller, but it works, and no, the seal is not broken on the gasket. You actually don't touch the cover itself...

 

[Halo3]

While trying to get my '78 road-worthy again (had sat for more than 3 years), I ran into the same problem. In the end, I was able to actually tighten the plugs a smidge, and then hit them with an impact gun. After a couple tighten then impact-loosen cycles, I was able to get all the plugs out.

Your milage may vary, but it worked for me.

 

[Pete112]

Didn't you say you can't get the fill plug out either? If that's the case, you better not use Woody's tip of draining from the bottom bolt. Otherwise, how will you fill it back up? :dunno:

I bet a breaker bar will work but you have to use a six point socket otherwise you'll either break the socket (not a big deal) or you'll strip the bolt (big deal). But make sure you tackle the fill plug first. I had to use a long pipe sliped over my socket wrench to get my seat belt bolt off the other day. Maybe that will help too.

 

[burnt03]

Had the same problem on my 40

Soak the thing with penetrating oil for a couple days prior
If the breaker bar still doesn't work, buy a new plug (couple bucks at the toy dealership)
Then take a sharp chisel and a hammer, cut a notch in one side of the old plug. Proceed to bang at a 45deg angle in a counterclockwise direction

 

[RangerDave]

Thanks to everyone for replying. I did get the fill plug out, but still stuck on the drain plug. Tried the penetrating oil too. At this point, I may just take it to the local wrench turner. I'll let you know. THanks.

 

[RangerDave]

All I can say is: Impact wrenches. I wish I hadn't futzed around so much. Mechanic had it loosened on the 3rd trigger squeeze. Thanks again for everyone's suggestions.

 

[Halo3]

LMAO

Don't you hate it when that happens?!?

I spent 2 hours trying to get the cat-back exhaust off of my Dakota last summer, but the factory had tightened up one of exhaust clamps so tight that it had dimpled the top of the pipe. I managed to split the top of the pipe about 1" with a cold chisel & brute force....and then broke the chisel. Took it in to Meineke, and within 30 seconds of lighting the torch, they had it cut off. *sigh* I need a shop!!