rear body mounts (2 Viewers)

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2 vultures sitting on a tree limb, one says to the other, screw patience I'm killing something! :) I'm right with you on the FF axle. Any thought to aftermarket axle shafts?
 
Just reread what Scrappdaddy questioned! Oh it could go sooooooo deeeeeeeeppp. "While I'm in there...."!!!!!

Just got my steering box back. Turns out there were no stops to take out!!!! :( I had so much hope that that would be the steering answer. I am going to talk to a metal guy that I know to see if he can make a longer pitman arm, and even if that would be a good answer. My last chance to increase the turning radius back to what it used to be.

A little help-
Got the box back in and went to fill it. Filled it to the cold line and then started the rig. Obviously had to fill the box as well. So I added more in small stages, while I turned the steering wheel. Needed more so I have to go to the store- turned of the rig and POOEY! The pump just overflowed all over the place! Just oozed out like that 8th grade volcano project!

After doing a Valdez clean up I figure that there is just so much air still in there it couldnt hold it all. My thought is to let all the foamy stuff go away while I go to the store. Then when I return, I prep for a possible recurrence, then try to continue the filling process.

Takes about 30 mins round trip. If anyone knows better chime in otherwise you might hear another tale of Pompeii!
 
Just reread what Scrappdaddy questioned! Oh it could go sooooooo deeeeeeeeppp. "While I'm in there...."!!!!!

Just got my steering box back. Turns out there were no stops to take out!!!! :( I had so much hope that that would be the steering answer. I am going to talk to a metal guy that I know to see if he can make a longer pitman arm, and even if that would be a good answer. My last chance to increase the turning radius back to what it used to be.

A little help-
Got the box back in and went to fill it. Filled it to the cold line and then started the rig. Obviously had to fill the box as well. So I added more in small stages, while I turned the steering wheel. Needed more so I have to go to the store- turned of the rig and POOEY! The pump just overflowed all over the place! Just oozed out like that 8th grade volcano project!

After doing a Valdez clean up I figure that there is just so much air still in there it couldnt hold it all. My thought is to let all the foamy stuff go away while I go to the store. Then when I return, I prep for a possible recurrence, then try to continue the filling process.

Takes about 30 mins round trip. If anyone knows better chime in otherwise you might hear another tale of Pompeii!

Normally Jack the front up fill and turn lock to lock. Filling alternately with cycles of turning.

You didn't run the errand with your other rig?
 
SOOOOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooooo

I think I said that my last chance to recover my lost steering radius was in the building of a longer pitman arm.

Well, decided to get back under there and just do a little more sleuthing. Wanted to make sure that without the steering stabilizer on and no steering link connected that knuckles would bottom out on the tire stops. Well, they did. So it must be the steering box. So accepting the inevitable I centered the steering box and the tires and went to reconnect the pitman to the steering box splines. As I was trying to get the pitman lined up it looked as tho it was short. Without turning the steering wheel the splines would not line up.

My drag link was toooooo short. I extended my drag link about 1/2in to get it to line up and, vuala, my lost steering radius is back! My wheel stops used to be completely extended and now they are completely compressed.

I just can't believe the shoddy work that someone had done to have gotten this type of measurement wrong! Oh, wait! It was me!

Now at least I have a steering box with heavy duty bearings that has been ported for hydro steering for the future (the ports that were put in now ensures that I have to get a new engine as now they line up with the 2F engine mount).

Everyday I feel like I am getting less retarded- just costs so much time and money!
 
i have been trying to visualized what had happened. Does it make sense that the shorter drag link could inhibit my turn radius? I can see it shortening the turn to the right but it seems like it wouldn't shorten a turn to the left side. Maybe in combination with the stabilizer shock being adjusted based off the turn to the right that would do it?
 
Wish I had more room!
A while back I switched in a 62 rear axle into my rig, figuring upgraded drum brakes and an ebrake that worked way better. Don't have alot of space so just got rid of the 55 axle housing. :(

So with my current situation (broken pinion shaft) I go upgrade since I am in there. The first is to add a locker to the dif. To do that I need the rear end to be a full float. Hence, Front Range Fabrication and their full float/ disk brake conversion.

Problem- the 62 axle, correct me if I am wrong PLEASE, is 2 inches wider than the 55. Not a problem. It sticks out a little farther on each side. Really no big deal. The problem lies in the fact that the ff conversion adds another 5 inches in width. So now the wheels will stick out another 2.5 inches beyond where they are now, and that would be just too hillbilly for me. Wouldn't it be great if I had kept my 55 housing!

Anyone out there have a 55 housing just laying around that they would be willing to part with?
 
So I finally got the axle in. Ended up getting a 60 full float as opposed to getting the Front Range Conversion Kit/55 housing. The guys at FR were great in helping me sus out my deal. Turns out that with the kit and a Droder ebrake it creates almost 8 inches of extra width. So it was lucky for me that I was never able to get the 55 housing from GinericLC.

SOR ended up having a full float 60. I got a pro to put in the Harrop and while he was at it I had him set the pinion angle and burn in the new Ruff Stuff perches. I was lucky my buddy saw that JoeKatana was selling the rear locker at a great price!
Nice! The last axle I did the perches and when I took that one out and laid it on some stands I had not gotten the perches level. The end of one was about a 1/4 inch off the other. In my defense my driveway is not level and I had nowhere else to do the work. Reallly I don't have any defense, but... Wonder what driving characteristics that created.

Been stoked to have Arcteryx to help me out a bit. He is the Harrop dealer in the area. Still gotta ask him some more questions.
85-90 weight dif fluid? Seems that I read that there were no additives needed either.
Does the vehicle need to be stopped to engage?
So now I have a 62 diff in a 60 ff with Harrop power. Had some trouble matching up my drive shaft with the 62 flange, but with Cruiseroutfit around I scored a nice shiney silver flange that had the proper holes to make the connection.

I decided to try my luck at making new brake lines as well. We will see how that works out. The double flares that I did really didn't look exactly like the ones that were Toyota done.

So now I just need to bleed the brakes set the preload, and run the electric.

PRELOAD :(

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Thought I had asked the question, but some how it was deleated. I have watched a few Mud videos and asked quite a few people. Tighten rotate the hub backwards and fowards-loosen - rotate and repeat. Then grab your handy fish scale and tighten till the pull lbs is about 5lbs. Well, I am getting 10-12 when I have the nut tightened and the same when I have it completely loosened. WHAT GIVES?!
 
haha
From the reading that I have done already, I can understand why noone has responded to this nebulous topic.
 
Well to be honest I never checked the pull of the wheel bearings with a scale. I've always just tighten them up tight and backed off, then just lightly snug. That was for the front, never set up a FF rear.
 
I am beginnning to think that everyone does it that way.

Yep, snug it. Make sure things turn ok, adjust a little and be done. I've never been too scientific about it.
 

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