Rear axle hub bolt removal problem (1 Viewer)

[Beau Diddly]

I'm trying to remove a stubborn broken hub bolt. I'm using a lag bolt as a punch to knock it out, with no luck. I've gone to a sledge hammer for a bit more persuasion and still it won't budge. Since I don't have the infamous SST Tool, I'd rather not try to remove the axle bearing lock nut. I know this might be easier to put it on a flat surface. Otherwise, any suggestions?

 

[2fpower]

I have taken several apart without the SST. It was loose enough for me to do with a couple punches and a pry bar.

 

[Rwhat]

The wheel stud?

 

[Tredwards]

Honestly you can use the 3 screwdriver method to remove the lock nut (one in each hole and one to rotate). then can get the hub on a flat surface and pound away or use a press. Should be doable without using the fancy sst. btw i got my fancy sst from Onur. This is probably the easiest option.

 

[Overland Tailor]

In your pic you are trying to punch out the wheel stud. You need a press to make easy work of it or the hub need to be totally removed so you can support it and bash it out with a 5lb sledge and very good quality punch.

Then, without the hub removed how are you going to press / Install the new stud? It wont just slip in... You can pull it with washers and nuts, but a good press again makes easy work...

Good luck

 

[Beau Diddly]

Then, without the hub removed how are you going to press / Install the new stud? It wont just slip in... You can pull it with washers and nuts, but a good press again makes easy work...

Good luck

I thought about that too. My concern, will the threads hold up without stripping if use the washers and nut method?

 

[surfpig]

I thought about that too. My concern, will the threads hold up without stripping if use the washers and nut method?

I did this a few weeks ago, bashed it out with a hammer, drew the new one on with a lug nut and washers. Be sure you re-torque at some point if you go that route...

 

[BILT4ME]

First of all, don't use a soft-faced hammer to pound it out.

Should be able to get it out with a 2 or 3Lb hammer and one or two CONFIDENT strokes. Rotate the hub so the stud is in a clean location for you to swing the hammer. Stand up. Put your BACK to the truck, touch the stud with your hammer, swing back and stroke it! One clean hit should break it loose.

It's all about the positioning of you and your hammer. On your knees, facing it with a soft-faced hammer will be more like you are going to pet your dog. You cannot get the leverage on your hammer that you need.

When installing the stud, if you have an old lug nut with the outer tip broken off that you can turn around so the back of it is flat, (or go buy a plain lug nut with one flat side) so you can stack some washers on the front side and do as @surfpig did and draw the new stud in with a stack of washers and tightening the lug nut down (be sure to use the flat side against the flat washers for the most optimum pull)

 

[heckler]

yeah use a real hammer and put your back into it.

 

[Golgo13]

Everyone keeps saying "Wheel Stud."
Toyota's Official name in the system is "Hub Bolt."
Don't try to correct a guy who is right, just help him get the dang thing out..

@BILT4ME is right, this should come out with a couple solid hits from a 2-3# brass hammer.
If that doesn't work, you might be able to borrow a tool from Vato-zone or the like.
If you're clever, you can do it with a large c-clamp and a steel pipe end-cap.

Something like this cap would work as long as the ID is smaller than the head of the bolt

 

[Beau Diddly]

Thanks fellows. With a little silicone spray and a good hammer, it came out. I put a little grease on the new one and pulled it through with a stack of washers, and the threads held up fine. Great input, it was helpful.

 

[BILT4ME]

Thanks fellows. With a little silicone spray and a good hammer, it came out. I put a little grease on the new one and pulled it through with a stack of washers, and the threads held up fine. Great input, it was helpful.

Great! Glad you got it done!

Time for step 6!

 

[heckler]

Strong work

 

[inkpot]

Just did a set last week. Used a regular air hammed right on the end of the stud, popped all of them right out. Used an oversized nut and single washer under a regular lug nut to pull new studs in easily. Braced it with a pry bar and torqued it to 100 to fully seat it in the flange. John

 

[izzyandsue]

You are brave (to my experience), I need to do the same but wanted to wait until after Big Creek. With my luck I would try to remove the bolt and end up destroying the axle. So far I "bandaided" it, used a die to rethread the bolt (M12 x 1.5) and was able to use a nut again. It will hold until next week. Glad to see it can be done with out removing other components.

 

[Beau Diddly]

You are brave (to my experience), I need to do the same but wanted to wait until after Big Creek. With my luck I would try to remove the bolt and end up destroying the axle. So far I "bandaided" it, used a die to rethread the bolt (M12 x 1.5) and was able to use a nut again. It will hold until next week. Glad to see it can be done with out removing other components.

Bring your tools Saturday, sounds like we'll have a HAMOM afterwards. It's always easier the second time around.

 

[izzyandsue]

I am thinking when I do mine I should address the piss poor hand brakes, and clean/replace as many giblets in there so it becomes useful. I can see on your picture how accessible it would be. I hate using the transmission in park on hills.

For now I got enough engagement on the shortened bolt to get full strength.

 

[Rwhat]

Technically it is a wheel stud..... (universal term known around the world)

A bolt would have a head on it. So it's a stud that supports a wheel with a lug nut.

 

[Beau Diddly]

Technically it is a wheel stud..... (universal term known around the world)

A bolt would have a head on it. So it's a stud that supports a wheel with a lug nut.

You might want to reach out to Mr T and let him know.

 

[wearsabrowncoat]

You are brave (to my experience), I need to do the same but wanted to wait until after Big Creek. With my luck I would try to remove the bolt and end up destroying the axle. So far I "bandaided" it, used a die to rethread the bolt (M12 x 1.5) and was able to use a nut again. It will hold until next week. Glad to see it can be done with out removing other components.

Be sure to disengage the e-brake. Once I figured that out it really wasn't that hard.