real time broken (1 Viewer)

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Which "he" grabbed the wrong ones? It sounds as though you are referring to me but I do not recall supplying them.
sorry, I got the correct list from Dan, I got the wrong part from my local toyta dealer...I needed the parts the same day on a saturday, or I would have called Dan. my bad. t
 
No problem. I didn't remember doing it and I wanted to make sure.....;)
 
I didn't remember doing it

It's a bitch getting old isn't it old man:hillbilly:

Thats OK, I'm right behind you.

I didn't remember doing it either, but my wife said I had fun :D
 
all fixed. 4 new knuckle studs, re-did the front axles, including the trunion bearings this time. drives great. thanks to all, especially Jeff for the bearings!!

T
 
Classic RH-steering-arm-stud-back-off.

I do not recall ever seeing this on the LH side.

Anyone?

Two studs backed completely out on my driver's side steering arm, and the other two were loose. Now I know why my new Toyos have been pulling so badly. The trxus MT's weren't pulling at all with this condition, pretty strange, I'm probably lucky the tires warned me before the entire assembly dropped.

No grease at all out of the knuckle, that stuff is completely clean nearly 40K miles after the front end rebuild the PO had done at Slee :cheers:

Call to Dan already placed...
 
i'm almost half way done with my axle rebuild (lots of work!) and have run into an odd variation of this theme:

two of the studs on the R side were almost finger tight. It was actually hard to get the nut off without the stud coming with it- so I just pulled the studs. After cleanout I'll try to get new Toyota studs to replace them, else I'll just locktite them back in

But!
stud #3 is a real bearcat. Can't get the cone washer out. I've whacked it with a variety of whacking things. I've sprayed it w/ wd40. I've whacked the arm, hoping to jiggle it out. I've even put a bar down through the top trunion bearing to whack the bottom center-part.

Nada.

I tried double-nutting the stud to back it out. Nope. 3 different times, same result.

So then I got a pipe wrench, figuring I'd just destroy the stud and plan to replace it.

I've stripped a bunch of threads off of the stud, but the cone washer and the stud are still right where they started.

Help!

I don't have a welder, so please don't suggest I weld the nut.
 
When working on a 1-ton Jeep I used a sacrificial flathead screwdriver in the little slot of the coned bushing. Use a hammer to drive it into the expanding slot and out it pops.

Possibly try vice grips on the stud and whacking the steering arm from underneath and hope the vibrations loosen the stud/cone...
 
yep...use a really small pick and then a small flathead screwdriver to get into the gap on the cone washer.

although my experience has been if you hit the metal right next to the cone washer, it will come off. If it doesn't, you aren't hitting it hard enough and you swing like a girl.... :grinpimp:


bk
 
beating the everloving snot out of it seems to have done the trick
also, switching from a 14oz ballpeen hammer to a 2.5lb sledge seems to have helped

also, switching the stereo from Jack Johnson to Bush might have been a key component
 
got everything out except for the inner oil seal on the pasenger side-- it was getting dark and I figured I'd just use this as an excuse to buy myself a seal puller tomorrow. The screwdriver approach isn't working well for me
 

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