Problem with Champion Aluminum Rad (1 Viewer)

[swampgas]

Fellas, I'm replacing the original radiator with a Champion C1213. I understand the pros and cons of that, but am trying to get the 60 back on the road while I see if the brass rad can be repaired. Trouble is, I can't get the mounting brackets to mount flush on the C1213…the bolt hole for the fan shroud is too close to the bracket bolts (view in pic is looking up from the bottom of the radiator). Anybody run into this or can suggest a work around?
Thanks!

 

[Output Shaft]

Problem With New Aluminum Radiator

@JonPalmer

 

[swampgas]

Thanks Output. I've read through that thread a few times; the OP was using the same radiator but had a different issue.

 

[MANUCHAO]

Judging by that pic (I could be wrong).
It looks like that nutsert did not fully compress.
If you can wait and return it, do so.
Or you could see about replacing the nutsert.... Or grind off the very end...

 

[BigBenFJ]

I ordered a champion 2 weeks ago. Had to send it back for another reason but while I was talking to their customer service guy he told me their would be some need for modification. When you buy something that's supposed to drop in you'd think you wouldn't have to do anything. Seems like you get what you pay for from Champion. I ordered a CSF for about $30 more off amazon should be here next week.

 

[MACFJ60]

I used a CSF from Amazon as well. Make sure you inspect it upon delivery. The first two were damaged in shipping. The third they double boxed and has performed perfectly.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

i had to chamfer my nutserts to get it to work. Did you get the brackets on the correct side? That bracket is asymmetric.

Thinking of my own solution, how about shimming the bracket that bolts to the radiator support by a 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch with washers.

 

[Elbert]

I've not bothered to look this item up in their catalog or web site, but it seems like others have said this was a bolt in solution. I can understand some modifications being required...but if so that should be disclosed in the product literature...before you buy. Does the mfg represent this as a bolt in solution?

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Unclear. I do know that the way this is mounted that you need to make an adjustment. Here's a pic of mine as I'm only fabricating it up. This current way of mounting would eventually break the radiator mount. The entire radiator needs to be insulated from the body with rubber.
I plan to shim the lower bracket that it is attached to the radiator support by about 3/8 of an inch.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Here is my fix.

 

[60 toy ota]

probably not the smartest thing but I just bent the angled part with the nutsert on it

 

[Output Shaft]

Wow, when a company sells a product that doesn't really fit... but is supposed to, and obviously doesn't care it it does or not.... It kinda makes you wonder about a lot of things....

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

yeah, I agree.

 

[sggoat]

Don't want to deter you from the Al rad, but I put one of these(champion) on my 77 2-1/2 yrs ago, because I got it cheap($150) from a friend, and my OEM was plugged because of sitting for 2 yrs while I did the body work. I had the thing tested and checked for flow--all ok. 6 months later, this thing threw Al oxide and who knows what else into the cooling system and plugged it up worse than the first time. The est cost to clean this thing ranged from $250 to $400(they have to cut the top/bottom of to clean it then TIG the stuff back together). I elected to rod out/clean the original rad that I had kept--cost me $80--including flushing and cleaning out all the gunk in the head and block. -- 2 yrs and it's still running clean.---you couldn't pay me to put an Al rad in again.--my .02

 

[Tapage]

To the OP I don't see a big deal on grinding it and make it fit .. while is not what you pay ( theoretically ) in a bolt on solution it can be easily fix IMHO .. if you are really sold on alum rad benefit I will do that and move on ..

 

[swampgas]

Thanks everyone for your thoughts. Especially your ideas and pics, cruiser jimmy. Finally was able to take the original to a radiator shop, who says that the it can be repaired pretty reasonably, so at this point I think I'm just going to return the Champion. I got it new from a seller on eBay for a pretty solid price, but I spoke with him today and he seems ready to refund.

 

[Elbert]

I've tried some different radiators over time both in the 60 and in other projects. I find that the old school 4 core/row radiator that may be OEM or may be an OEM -aftermarket replacement are superior in most cases. I'ts not good practice to buy a radiator on low price....over time this just does not prove to work. Like most people I like A/C to work and not overheat both on and off road....and now that I've had a v8 for some time....what cools it ....?... yes its a OEM type 4 row replacement brass tank type radiator. Just putting it out there.... if it cools the v8 and cools the stock I-6...there you go.

Do yourself a favor....get an OEM type bolt in replacement brass tank radiator and you'll be set for the next 10-15 years or so...no mods required on stock setup...custom fan shroud needed on V8 swap along with the matching fan clutch from the V8...and you are ready to roll and be driving rather than trying to figure out the next cooling solution.

I've run electric fans, different electric fans, different fan clutchs and fans....For GM engine...use the matching fan clutch that aligns with your engine year and version and use the OEM GM clutch fan if possible, get a good modified or custom fan shroud and the above mentioned radiator and you are ready to roll.

 

[Landpimp]

$200 vrs $400(for new) may seem like a lot of money but its way cheaper than cooking the motor and blowing a head gasket

 

[Elbert]

http://www.autozone.com/cooling-hea...ers-f-4-2l-2bl/352698_233208_0/?checkfit=true

So you don't like autozone...me either at times...but guess what they have or they can get.... yes its a little $$, but this radiator has been in my truck over 5 years now...it bolts right in and works. Yes you might want to do some mods to adjust for the right radiator hose diameter if you are doing a v8 swap and or you may choose to move the lower radiator hose neck for the same reason...

Anyway here is a proven radiator solution....FYI

Amazon.com: Spectra Premium CU12 Complete Radiator for Toyota Landcruiser: Automotive

 

[dbleon]

To the OP, I say first world problems... A second's worth of ingenuity should have you back on the road.

But, YMMV with the Champion, just by my observations they are questionable... and I run one.

Pay attention to coolant maintenance

Good coolant read IMO>>>>> The Basics of Diesel-Engine Coolant | Construction Equipment

I like and have been using G05 in my cruiser for a while now. Its a vortec/alum rad setup with non pressurized recovery bottle etc.