Poll - Lift kit options (2 Viewers)

Which lift should I get?

  • 1" body lift + 30mm spring spacers

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • 2.5" lift kit

    Votes: 23 65.7%
  • Get real! 4' lift kit is what you need

    Votes: 12 34.3%

  • Total voters
    35

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I've been thinking about this issue for some time and can't get an answer by myself as what I need to do with my car.
As it currently is, my 80 sits on a OME stock height heavy springs. I guess there is a little lift actually over stock setup, probably less than 1". 285/75-16 tires and I don't plan on going larger that that.

Always thinking about finances too, having the 1" body lift plus the spring spacers (as far as parts prices go) that would be a better alternative. But, I think there will be more labor involved as well, therefore more costs. I think I need to get new (longer) shocks too, right? So it may add up to the cheaper option.

I've looked at some new shocks
for a 2.5" lift and they run around $450-500 range. Body lift plus spacers maybe $200. SO it comes really close to the price of a 2.5" kit (I've seen them around $750-800)

In either case I think I need caster correction no matter which option I choose. So this cost will be constant for either option, not counting it.

I understand wheel travel will not be improved by the body lift and spacers kit, I will just get height off the ground without the benefits of better off road capability. Longer spring and shocks will achieve that to a degree, sway bar disconnect too. I am not a heavy duty off roader, but trying to keep the bottom from scraping rocks and dirt.
 
Body lift is a pain so I wouldn't do it. With 285 you don't need bump stop at all! If you want a little height then go with tjm 50mm spring unless you have a heavy rig then OME medium springs. You don't want longer shocks unless you extend your brake line. You will need caster either way spacer or not. Then do yourself and go 35s because as soon you go 2 inch lift you will want them.


Not going bigger than 33s......famous last words.
 
2.5" of lift doesn't require anything with the brakes, but caster corrections bushings are highly recommended. 2.5" OME mediums work well with 285's and some weight. Body lift is a waste of $$ unless you want 315's...no added frame clearance, just body.

Your axles are what hit now, and that won't change :)

IMO, invest in skid plates and sliders (if you don't already)...my IPOR skid is WELL tested, and protects excellent.
 
Keep you eye out for a used 2.5 OME on the classifieds. They pop up from time to time and are easy on the budget.
 
Body lift is a pain so I wouldn't do it. With 285 you don't need bump stop at all! If you want a little height then go with tjm 50mm spring unless you have a heavy rig then OME medium springs. You don't want longer shocks unless you extend your brake line. You will need caster either way spacer or not. Then do yourself and go 35s because as soon you go 2 inch lift you will want them.


Not going bigger than 33s......famous last words.

I'm thinking about some armor later on, so the weight will add on eventually. I got two heavy bumpers already.
 
2.5" of lift doesn't require anything with the brakes, but caster corrections bushings are highly recommended. 2.5" OME mediums work well with 285's and some weight. Body lift is a waste of $$ unless you want 315's...no added frame clearance, just body.

Your axles are what hit now, and that won't change :)

IMO, invest in skid plates and sliders (if you don't already)...my IPOR skid is WELL tested, and protects excellent.


I know there is no way around the caster correction, so in either case I know I need it. I will need skid plates for sure. I am not at easy with the OEM setup. I seriously doubt I will ever go rock crawling, so the sliders will have to wait for a while.
 
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I have been at this for 25 years and what I have learned is to do armor first or simultaneously because as soon as you get new springs and some 315's your going to want to test it out and your new found ground clearance will only beg you to "go down that trail" and the next thing you know you wish you had that armor.
 
I'm thinking about some armor later on, so the weight will add on eventually. I got two heavy bumpers already.


If you already have bumpers and such go straight to OME. They ride really nice with added weight. Also depends on your budget a set of fox shocks does wonders.
 
I no there is no way around the caster correction, so in either case I know I need it. I will need skid plates for sure. I am not at easy with the OEM setup. I seriously doubt I will ever go rock crawling, so the sliders will have to wait for a while.

Sliders are the #1 modificaton I recommend.
 
+1 on the sliders. We went to big bear and friend bore a hole on his rockers (pax side). He had armor up front and rear but no side protection... Having new lift and more clearance, you will want to test it out and next thing you know, you've got a dimple....
 
Based on your post (sticking with 285 tires), I would get skidplates and sliders instead of lifting. 285 tires are happy with stock height, and any increase in lift will have a corresponding increase in CoG and tippyness. In fact, the sliders and skids route would actually lower your CoG :)

That is the opinion of a guy who has gone rubber side up. :eek:
 
Not to high-jack your thread @Dragos80 but I am curious as to how many degrees of correction is needed when running 285s with 2.5 inches of lift?
Each truck may vary, so hard too say. General speaking 2-3* bushings work for the 2.5" lift. But there are other factors. For example the OME med 2.5" VS the OME 2.5" heavy lift, the heavy lift will give you more lift IF you are not weighed down like it wants to be by design.

Another note, when speaking of caster we are talking about the axle rotation. When you lift your truck with springs, ect the axles are lifted from the frame changing that angle. Larger tires have nothing to do with it other than exaggerating the feel of the lift truck with out caster correction. Sure the tires give you lift, BUT they by the diameter of them off the center of the axles, not changing the geometry.
 
You may want to also add an upgraded steering stabilizer for the lift. If not a heavy offroad use, asumming you mean more like overlanding type trips, that is closer to what I do. I opted for the Ironman 2.5 lift and have 33" tires, have been able to do some pretty incredible trails I never thought I could (or should). Sliders would be my other recommendation, have tested those quite a bit recently.
 
I understand the consensus of armor, but if an 80 is used more for touring (to get to offroad destinations) and some overlanding with only occasional wheelin', where is the trade-off threshold when in comes to lifts? In other words, if you want to maintain handling and ride comfort for the family (touring & overlanding), will you give it up with a 1" or 2.5" lift?
 
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Sliders are there for mistakes. Body damage is expensive to repair. Gentle rubs aren't the problem, it's that "missed" drop and the subsequent landing that does the damage.

Hence the reason for GOOD sliders as well...a cheap set of tubes will simply cause the same issues.
 
I think that can be more geographic specific, like down our way Beau if you want to explore places in Pisgah or western mountains, having the lift could help get over logs, rocky areas, washouts in clay. Also a 2 to 2.5 lift can be 1.5 when load with camping gear, kids, dogs, food, water, wife shoes...
By the way, you joining us at Big Creek on Saturday? Check out the ONSC club section for info, we got room.
 
Here is what lack of sliders get you when you are playing on the dirt. Of course this is pre-lift and pre-running board and pre-damage multiplier removal.
damage1.jpg
damage4.jpg
 

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