Plastic "Switch Bezel" repair (1 Viewer)

[a4jock]

I am the original owner of an 84 FJ60. After 30+ years in the AZ sun, and other atrocites, my instrument panel plastics finally gave up the ghost. Luckily I had the G2 to locate some parts in a junkyard in South America during one of my trips. One of those parts was an instrument cluster that was reeeeal close to a US FJ60.
I ended up cutting out the good from the old and new bezel, and fabricated a new FrankenBezel for my trusty old ride. I used MEK and drill shavings from the old plastic to produce a "putty" that I used to fill in cracks, hole and such. The MEK was also used to "weld" the plastic pieces together. This was a much stronger bond then various glues I tried. The next hurdle was to match paint/colors o to the rest of the interior. I was lucky to find a spary paint from Ace hardware that was called "Khaki". Pretty damn near a perfect match.
So after 3 days of cutting. fabricating," welding" fitting,sanding, then painting, I ended up with something that looks OEM.
No on to that dang "stumbling/carb" issue and wiper motor--sigh!

 

[rrv333]

Can't tell unless you point it out. Great job!

 

[Cruiser Ed]

Looks great!!

Just curious, is there an online guide on the process that you used? Is this called what people do when they "plastic weld"?

Also, did you have to take off the ends of the top sliding levers of the heating cluster to get the trim in? I couldn't figure how to take the ends off the other day. I figure there's a tab at the back of the end to press but I couldn't really see what I was doing.

 

[Big Cruiser Guy]

Great work. What's behind the wooden door? Secret stuff?

 

[a4jock]

Looks great!!

Just curious, is there an online guide on the process that you used? Is this called what people do when they "plastic weld"?

Also, did you have to take off the ends of the top sliding levers of the heating cluster to get the trim in? I couldn't figure how to take the ends off the other day. I figure there's a tab at the back of the end to press but I couldn't really see what I was doing.

I didn't have a guide to go by, just knew that MEK would melt plastic so I experimented with the bad plastic parts from the old bezel. If you use this method, take a small modelers paintbrush to dip in the MEK and apply to plastic ends and appiy some pressure until MEK evaporates. Should be firmly welded.
No need to remove lever ends, just gently pull bezel down and out to remove.

 

[a4jock]

Great work. What's behind the wooden door? Secret stuff?

Great work. What's behind the wooden door? Secret stuff?

A rats nest of radio wires. Used to be an OEM tray years ago.

 

[stayalert]

Nice job!

 

[cruiserpilot]

I've never heard of MEK. Kind of neat stuff. What is it really used for? I have an old bezel I would like to repair,
and you seemed to have perfected it. Did all the alignment holes still work or did you have to repair them too?

 

[Beachcomber Bernie]

Creatively overcoming failed plastics in a single bond!
You can brag on that sucess all day long.
Where does the line form for repair services?

 

[Kaasdief]

Great job!

 

[micruz60]

I've never heard of MEK. Kind of neat stuff. What is it really used for? I have an old bezel I would like to repair,
and you seemed to have perfected it. Did all the alignment holes still work or did you have to repair them too?

Methyl Ethyl Ketone. Serious solvent.
Innovative repair process, just don't breathe too much of the fumes...

 

[a4jock]

Thanks gents for the comments. Wasn't too hard, just think first before doing.
Here's one that somebody, no doubt, has an answer to--- during acceleration to ~1800RPM, I'm getting a 3-500RPM cutback, then an accel then cutback. This appears to be a "flat spot" during the acceleration process. All vac hoses are new and correctly routed ( I hope). I'm wondering if one of the numerous VCV valves is toast, or one of the circuits in the carb is bad..

 

[Output Shaft]

Does the hesitation happen if you're flooring it?

 

[TLC Norway]

Good job, sir!!

 

[gregnash]

Methyl Ethyl Ketone. Serious solvent.
Innovative repair process, just don't breathe too much of the fumes...

Correct... VOCs of that stuff are GNARLY! Definitely something you want to use in an open and well ventilated area along with a mask if possible. When I used to work for a truck accessories shop years ago we would use it to "rough up" spots of bedliner for either removal or whatnot..

For those looking at using this stuff, be VERY careful with it as it is a considerably caustic solvent and is very nasty if inhaled. Definitely wear all your protection when using ESPECIALLY eye and hand protection.

 

[Jesper]

Very nice job with the plastic. Great info as we all do or will need similar repairs.

As for the carb, also double check your decel fuel cut vacuum switch. Should be on the drivers fender, search will yield a photo if you're not sure what it looks like. That switch and the ECM control the decel fuel cut solenoid in the carb, which cuts fuel at about that rpm and will produce symptoms similar to what you're describing. If that's the case there is a work around to ground one of the wires from the solenoid to the carb body with a simple ring connector.

Check out; Fuel Cut Off Help w/ pictures

 

[87CRUSR]

I've never heard of MEK. Kind of neat stuff. What is it really used for? I have an old bezel I would like to repair,
and you seemed to have perfected it. Did all the alignment holes still work or did you have to repair them too?

I used MEK as a thinner for the industrial glue used on the floor jute, headliner and seat cushion restorations.

 

[ScottT]

How to fix plastics using acetone. You tube search.