Phoenix gets a new set of underwear (driveline upgrades to my FJ40) (1 Viewer)

[4xphoenix]

While waiting for the diff parts, I began documenting and removing the wiring harness, which was shorted out in multiple locations. I am following the Spectre kit nomenclature and photographing, as well as noting, the original connectors. I am not showing that here but here is the central nervous system from Phoenix...



I will be modifying it mostly to install the electric fuel pump and do away with the Engine Modification circuits, which didn't work anyway...the "brain" was a corroded box of s***!

 

[4xphoenix]

The binding issue was dealt with by following the FSM procedure for installing the adjuster nuts. With 0.007 inch of backlash, the adjuster nuts align with the locking clips to produce a total preload of 22-28 inch-lbs, for a side bearing preload of 4-8 inch-lbs. The FSM calls for 3.5-5.5 inch-lbs; considering the likely imprecision of the beam torque wrench I am using, this should be nominal. My only uncertainty is that Paul K suggested that it would take a big wrench to get the adjuster nuts tight enough for the proper preload...

The FSM says to check side bearing preload by removing side movement of the diff and go 1-2 more notches. I certainly rotated the adjuster nuts 1 notch after I couldn't move the diff so I don't know if it is even possible to go another notch; it would certainly take a BIG spanner to do it but it would also increase the side bearing preload somewhat as well.

 

[4xphoenix]

The replacement of the R&P is complete now, and I will finish the ARB air locker pull-out installation tomorrow.

Meanwhile, I found a supplier for all of the necessary parts to rebuild the original F engine, including oversize pistons, rings, and bearings. The company is Clegg Engine in Utah...I spoke to Tyson, who verified their inventory and reported no problems in the future. With this good news, all efforts are on getting the front axle back together so I can roll Phoenix out of the garage and remove the engine. Egbert Engine Service here in Slidell says it takes a couple of months to rebuild an engine.

Of course, I had to follow Mike L.s advice and get Longfield axles, so now I have to remove the new knuckles and grind the axle housing down to fit the new axles...I should have known better than to try and do anything ahead of time...LOL!

At least I am back on track...for now!

 

[4xphoenix]

Today, I installed the air-locker housing and tubing. It was really easy to bend the copper tubing to fit around the ring gear. I got to within 1/8" over the ring gear but it will be tight fitting into the axle housing...

I cannot even find files on my computer with the uploader on Mud, so it will be a while before I return...unlike the ad that takes over my brower every 30 seconds..

LATER.......

 

[4xphoenix]

I will try again...here are some photos of the ARB air line profile...



The pressure was ~100 psi at the start of the test, and fell to 90 psi within 1 hour; it held 90 psi for 24 hours so it is definitely okay. The ARB install guide doesn't mention checking the operation but I tried rotating the pinion while turning on air pressure. The most I can say is I think I heard a mild click (really muffled)...I think it is a well-built machine and doesn't clank like the mechanical lockers.

After cleaning up the axle housing, I will install it in the next couple of days...

 

[4xphoenix]

I installed the diff pull-out with a paper gasket, after reading some pros and cons, and ground down the axle housing to install the Longfield axles, per the manufacturer's instructions. It was pretty simple using a small drum grinder with a drum...the knuckle was installed because it was used to center the axle for final clearance tolerances.



I then installed the spindle with no issues...almost ready (NOT)...



Oops! I got two copies and don't want to deal with it now. A problem occurred, again, when I attempted to install the Warn locking hubs that came with the newer (1976) disk-brake knuckles. The axle is ~1/2 inch too short to install the C-clip. I made some measurements on the driver's side and called Cruiser Outfitters to figure it out. With Bryce's help (he opened a new Aisan locking hub and made some measurements), I discovered that the Warn hubs I inherited are ~1/2 inch deeper from the inner hub mount...I ordered a set of Aisan hubs ($350...wow) and more measurements show why...


The OEM Birfield is ~190 mm from the spindle boss to the end, whereas the Longfield is ~180 mm...the Aisans will work but I don't know why the Aisan locking hub is so different from the Warn...Go Figure, but the hubs will be installed in a couple of weeks...

...then I roll Phoenix out of the garage and remove the engine for delivery to Egbert Engine in Slidell...we are almost there!

 

[HungryMedic]

This thing should run like a top when you are done!

 

[4xphoenix]

This thing should run like a top when you are done!

The Aisin hubs worked exactly as expected and the 40 is now sitting on its own four feet...



I have rearranged the operating room to prep the engine for removal, which could happen this week...

 

[4xphoenix]

The engine is ready for removal, but there is a change in plans...I have ordered a rebuilt 2F from Cruiser Parts and the F is junk as far as I am concerned. I am moving soon and no place for it...I have begun laying out the old and new harnesses to start the rewiring while installing the new engine, rebuilt transmission, and new t-case...



I still need to determine the instrument/switch configuration but the Spectre harness is more flexible than the OEM so it shouldn't be too difficult.

 

[4xphoenix]

I have removed the old F engine and gotten the flywheel/bellhousing off...just awaiting the new 2F. Meanwhile, I found the probable cause for the dash lights blowing the main fuse. All of those cut, and retaped, wires go either to the fuse box or light switch...plus another unknown wire. This would explain...I am glad I got the new harness. I would never have found this without removing the old harness...

 

[Bang Bang]

Ha ha. You want to see a wiring nightmare? Take a look under the hood and under the dash of Hachi.

 

[DSRTRDR]

there are any 40s left that come without a wring nightmare

 

[4xphoenix]

I am currently sorting out the harness groups so I need to know where gauges/switches are going to be; this led me to the inop horn and the dreaded steering column group; this led me to deciding to replace the old ignition/turn signal/dimmer/horn setups with individual controls on the dash and floor (dimmer); this led me to remove the steering wheel and turn signal/horn/dimmer assemblies, which were so old they cracked and fell apart during disassembly; having done this, I discovered that the steering shaft upper/outer bearing is built into the ignition/etc. housing (the lubricant is as thick as peanut butter); so now I need to see how to modify the steering wheel cover to conceal this ugly ignition/bearing assembly, but I am following thru; and of course I will probably get a new steering wheel without an integrated horn; which leads me to some questions...is there such a thing, and is the steering wheel spline/shaft a standard configuration? I cannot find any answers to this on the web...

Any input is welcome...

 

[4xphoenix]

The rebuilt transmission and new Orion t-case have been assembled now but it took some work to deal with ~300 lbs of ungainly steel. I used the transmission jack, a floor jack, and two bottle jacks but the t-case went on with a few well-placed blows with a rubber mallet (the alignment is impossible to get perfect).



One issue came up, however; the Orion case is MUCH heftier than the Toyota and the reverse switch cannot be installed after the t-case is mated to the transmission. This leads to a dichotomy; the switch can be installed prior to assembly but replacing the switch necessitates removing the t-case (not my idea of a simple replacement). I opted to grind the nut faces off of the brass switch and install it afterward (still really tight fit); I checked it with the ohmmeter and it still works but at least it won't be a nightmare in the future. I was going to install a plug and use a dash switch for reverse lights but couldn't find a 17.1 mm short bolt anywhere...

I also installed the twin-stick controls for the t-case from Advance, which was straightforward. I also reinstalled the original drum parking brake.



This assembly is ready for installation...awaiting an engine...

 

[4xphoenix]

I have been looking at the old and new wiring harnesses lying on the garage floor and thinking about the install, and I finally concluded that there are too many unknowns to do much without installing the fuse block, so I placed it where a pollution control module was on the firewall near the clutch pedal.



There was a bracket for the old module that I modified to allow the use of existing bolts; I may add two more at the bottom of the block to stiffen it up but it is well mounted. The fuse block is modular with four rows that are snapped together, which could be an issue in the future but probably not unless I go racing (not likely with the 2F engine...LOL). Now I can sort out the wiring better and avoid excess wire throughout the cab...



While twisting my back under the dash, I also installed the cable throttle for the Weber 38 mm carb; the instructions from TPI for the new accelerator pedal were "Install accelerator pedal"...no kidding. It took a couple of tries but it is aligned with the cable while much lower than the Toyota assembly...



Here is a photo of the planned switch configuration (the ARB switches replace the ash tray)...the panel I am holding is the ignition panel, which consists of an ignition switch, a starter button, and an accessory switch. The electric fuel pump is the first rocker switch to the right.

 

[HungryMedic]

Looking good! Any deadline for completion or just as she goes?

 

[4xphoenix]

Looking good! Any deadline for completion or just as she goes?

ASAP...when Phoenix runs with all parts installed the house goes on the market and I will soon thereafter be moving to Baton Rouge...with the nice weather lately, I am working all day on the wiring...just gotta worry about the motor...LOL

 

[HungryMedic]

When does the new/rebuilt 2f arrive?

 

[4xphoenix]

I don't know when my rebuilt 2F will arrive. Neither the web page, or the "supervisor" at Cruiser Parts, mentioned that...I naively thought there were available immediately, but he made comments that suggested otherwise...they have been paid in full...I will call them next week and try to get a definitive estimate because the electrical work is coming along well...

 

[HungryMedic]

I am looking forward to seeing it together!