Agreed, it's more important to change it then to not change it while your obsessing over which clamps and hose to use. Get it replaced in the driveway not the ditch.
PHH (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Wayne
- Start date
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Just to add to the confusion here.... when I did my PHH last year I used 5/8 marine fuel hose. Bloody expensive, but I found a 10 inch scrap at my local marine supply. It's hard to get over the nipples but is really durable, reinforced, thick walled hose.
John
John
Thanks Riley
I ordered the McMasters set of clamps per a previous post in this thread, I also have a peice of hose coming so I think I am ready to go, I figured with Junk posting links on page two it had to be relavent.
Steven
Hey Riley I had read both of those, Thanks.
I ordered the McMasters set of clamps per a previous post in this thread, I also have a peice of hose coming so I think I am ready to go, I figured with Junk posting links on page two it had to be relavent.
Steven
Hey Riley I had read both of those, Thanks.
Riley said:
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Well thanks to everyone here.
All the posts and links really helped alot, I bet most casual owners would never think to look for a hose there, even if they were the check the belts and hose's type owner.
A pretty okay job, I worried more about it being harder than it actualy was.
The only tip I could add that I haven't read yet is:
For the cottor pin clamp, I used a small pair of needle nose vise grips. Clamped on the cottor pin through the hole and started twisting the vise grips, just like you do with the keys that used to come on the bottom of sardine cans. It came right off.
The other clamp was the spring steel clamp kind, on my truck the wider side was twards the firewall up high. I could only see the skinny side and no pliers I had could get on the clamp. I even tried griping the hose to turn it, no clearance.
I ended up grabbing a stubby screwdriver, putting it through the empty spot on the wide side and twisted the hose and clamp all at once. With the clamp facing down any pair of pliers I have would have worked. and it broke the stickyness between the hose and nipple.
Thanks again, now I should be okay for another 100k.
Steven
All the posts and links really helped alot, I bet most casual owners would never think to look for a hose there, even if they were the check the belts and hose's type owner.
A pretty okay job, I worried more about it being harder than it actualy was.
The only tip I could add that I haven't read yet is:
For the cottor pin clamp, I used a small pair of needle nose vise grips. Clamped on the cottor pin through the hole and started twisting the vise grips, just like you do with the keys that used to come on the bottom of sardine cans. It came right off.
The other clamp was the spring steel clamp kind, on my truck the wider side was twards the firewall up high. I could only see the skinny side and no pliers I had could get on the clamp. I even tried griping the hose to turn it, no clearance.
I ended up grabbing a stubby screwdriver, putting it through the empty spot on the wide side and twisted the hose and clamp all at once. With the clamp facing down any pair of pliers I have would have worked. and it broke the stickyness between the hose and nipple.
Thanks again, now I should be okay for another 100k.
Steven
turbocruiser said:
I've always thought that it was a preassembled part from the original source to help cut down the loose parts and assembly time at the line. So the pipe came with the hose on it. No real evidence or knowledge of thet just my thougts.
Can someone confirm that the bolts used on the PHH are 12 mm? If so, I am in luck, as I had a shop do some of the baselining work when I first purchased, and the unfocused lad who worked on it happened to leave a 12mm ratcheting box wrench sitting on the battery, as well as the idler pulley he replaced. It sounds like this is a handy tool when performing PHH replacement.
I figure the wrench was compensation for the worry I was left with after finding these symbols of absentmindedness by those I entrusted my new member of the family to.
I figure the wrench was compensation for the worry I was left with after finding these symbols of absentmindedness by those I entrusted my new member of the family to.
Speaking of absentmindedness.....I put this reply on the wrong thread, I meant it to go on the one I generated yesterday 
Oh well, this probably is useful on this thread as well, assuming it hasn't already been answered here and I missed it
Oh well, this probably is useful on this thread as well, assuming it hasn't already been answered here and I missed it 
Success!
Data Point: Upon visual external inspection the hose had no signs of leakage. But seeing as how I'm going on a 16 hour trip in the next couple of days I began to get that "nagging" feeling that I'd better change it now in the relative comfort of my garage. After all, why risk it? Reading posts on this forum that included horrid descriptions such as, "Bursting" and "Exploding" PHH's, certainly had an impact on my decision. The entire process took me about 4 hours from start to finish. This includes draining the rad, block, jacking up the vehicle, removeing the wheel, etc. I'm 5'9" and my forearms are average sized I guess, smaller and longer forearms would certainly be a plus for this task.
One more thing, I WAS in fact able to get a Dremel pencil extension in there with a cutoff wheel and cut through the first and part of the second clamps. This cut down on a lot of aggravation. One issue is that the wheels themselves are seemingly delicate and I broke more than a few just trying to get it into position.
I used standard Heavy Duty heater hose and used standard stainless steel hose clamps. I have no doubt that this will hold up for another 8 years without issue. No need for all that fancy smancy aero-space gear. In the event I have to replace it again - the worm gear hose clamps will be relatively easy to remove.
Bottom line - take your time and, you can do it. This IS NOT a hard task - just very Time Consuming. Whoever is reading this and thinking about undertaking this repair, just give yourself enough time and you'll be fine. Good Luck.
Data Point: Upon visual external inspection the hose had no signs of leakage. But seeing as how I'm going on a 16 hour trip in the next couple of days I began to get that "nagging" feeling that I'd better change it now in the relative comfort of my garage. After all, why risk it? Reading posts on this forum that included horrid descriptions such as, "Bursting" and "Exploding" PHH's, certainly had an impact on my decision. The entire process took me about 4 hours from start to finish. This includes draining the rad, block, jacking up the vehicle, removeing the wheel, etc. I'm 5'9" and my forearms are average sized I guess, smaller and longer forearms would certainly be a plus for this task.
One more thing, I WAS in fact able to get a Dremel pencil extension in there with a cutoff wheel and cut through the first and part of the second clamps. This cut down on a lot of aggravation. One issue is that the wheels themselves are seemingly delicate and I broke more than a few just trying to get it into position.
I used standard Heavy Duty heater hose and used standard stainless steel hose clamps. I have no doubt that this will hold up for another 8 years without issue. No need for all that fancy smancy aero-space gear. In the event I have to replace it again - the worm gear hose clamps will be relatively easy to remove.
Bottom line - take your time and, you can do it. This IS NOT a hard task - just very Time Consuming. Whoever is reading this and thinking about undertaking this repair, just give yourself enough time and you'll be fine. Good Luck.
Did yours need replacing?
Visually - it didn't look like it needed replacing. It did feel a little brittle once I got it off. But either way it was a good idea to replace it before my 16 hour drive up in the mountains. There was no leakage - I'm sure it would have lasted quite a while longer - but you just don't know - that's the problem. I'd rather replace it and KNOW I'm okay than to have that "nagging" voice - granted my nagging voice may a little louder than others.
What a silicone PHH kit looks like:
Where you can get one:
www.1fzfephh.com
Together we can rid the world of failing PHH hoses.
Where you can get one:
www.1fzfephh.com
Together we can rid the world of failing PHH hoses.
Houston- good business idea! That silicone heater hose is tough to find.
Now you need to develop a tool that can pull the old PHH off with ease. The other day, I was wondering if it would make sense to simply slice the old one in two right across the gap between the metal hose and block nipple. Then plug each metal end and simply fire a propane torch in there until the remains dripped off and the hose clamps would literally fall off. A little post fire cleanup would be heaven compared to the agonizing hour or more I have taken to get the 3 off I've changed.
DougM
DougM
I completely unbolted the metal downtube. Then it was not unreasonably hard to loosen the hose by pushing on the end with the flat side of a screwdriver. Takes a bit of care but avoids damage to either metal pipe from head or the metal downpipe.
I do appreciate how much harder it would be to remove if the tube remained bolted to the back of the engine.
I do appreciate how much harder it would be to remove if the tube remained bolted to the back of the engine.
I just sliced the hose length wise and pulled it off. How hard is that? You need a special tool to be developed for that?
Most tool makers make a hook tool for removing hoses. I use a knife to cut the hose lengthways after using a pair of side cutters to remove the outer clamp and a pair of pliers to remove the inner one.
Ok.. how did you loosen the lower bolt? let alone have the confidence to torque it back in? I must have stuck a half dozen thing in there to see if it would work!
