Opinions on what's Happening Here (1 Viewer)

[CarDude]

As some of you guys know I am replacing the transmission and transfer case.but I also had what I think k is a rear main seal leak. I was surprised by the amount of oil covering everything. And the second question is do you think this clutch is is good enough shape to reuse are should I just by a new one to be safe. It did chatter a little bit on take off not all the time but some times

 

[CarDude]

 

[Jdc1]

If you are in doubt and have the time and $$ I vote to change everything while you have it apart. For the pilot bearing I used a bolt and some hamburger buns and it came right out. Posers how to on the rear main seal was also beneficial to me.

 

[landcruiserrich]

Looks like you caught that in time. The pressure plate and disc dont look too glazed yet and your disc looks like new. How does the flywheel look? Depends on your budget on what you can do. A)You can throw it all back together after a liberal dousing in brake cleaner and hope you got all the oil out of the clutch disc....or 2)you can spend another 300$ish on a clutch kit , flywheel resurfacing, pilot bearing and throwout bearing for piece of mind. This is on top of the rear main seal and oil pan gasket you have to change either way. If youre going with option A )dont bother resurfacing the flywheel. If there is still oil in the clutch disc it's going to glaze and possibly heat check the flywheel causing you to have it resurfaced again later. Throw a new pilot bearing in either way. They are cheap and and you're in there anyway.

 

[landcruiserrich]

If your budget and timeline is tight you can change the rear main and not bother with the oil pan gasket, then keep a close eye on it to make sure your oil pan gasket isnt leaking in that area too. Oh and check for a groove on the sealing surface of the crankshaft before you put a new seal in. You might have to get a speedy sleeve for it.

 

[landcruiserrich]

Just remembered there is no speedi sleeve for this application.....so hopefully your crank isnt grooved

 

[73FJ40]

Can you tell if the sealing plug at the end of the camshaft is leaking the oil? That's been a problem for a number of people. It's located at midpoint of a line drawn directly between the center of the pilot bearing and the center of the timing window, half covered by the bell housing. I just replaced mine and used an OEM one (less that $3) because the lip is VERY shallow. There have been some comments that generic ones are too deep and when set in place, push up against the end of the camshaft resulting in woe and misery.

 

[73FJ40]

Just remembered there is no speedi sleeve for this application.....so hopefully your crank isnt grooved

I thought so too but Rock Auto claims to have a couple in stock, $18 - $42 depending on the OEM.

 

[CarDude]

I was afraid the oil pin gasket might need to be changed. I keep getting deeper into this .I can't believe you can't get remove the Bell housing with out removeinvg the flywheel and clutch assembly.I am panicking on how I am going to reassemble the clutch and pressure plate.there is so little space to work with. How hard is it to remove the oil pan and reinstall while the engine is still in the vehicle? I do not want to have to do all this over so I am fairly certain I will replace the clutch assembly.

 

[CarDude]

Can you tell if the sealing plug at the end of the camshaft is leaking the oil? That's been a problem for a number of people. It's located at directly between the center of the pilot bearing and the center of the timing window, half covered by the bell housing. I just replaced mine and used an OEM one (less that $3) because the lip is VERY shallow. There have been some comments that generic ones are too deep and when set in place, push up against the end of the camshaft resulting in woe and misery.

Do you need to remove the Bell housing to replace that ? I will go looks later to see if I can find it

 

[bikersmurf]

It's a messy job, but replacing the oil pan gasket isn't to hard, just time consuming. Don't over tighten it, and dimple the bolt holes a hair with a ball-peen hammer first. I'd do it all once... rather than having to pull it all out again later.

 

[CarDude]

If your budget and timeline is tight you can change the rear main and not bother with the oil pan gasket, then keep a close eye on it to make sure your oil pan gasket isnt leaking in that area too. Oh and check for a groove on the sealing surface of the crankshaft before you put a new seal in. You might have to get a speedy sleeve for it.

Do I do that after I remove the old rear main seal??

 

[Mace]

If the clutch got oily at all it's a result of tranny fluid, not engine oil.

 

[CarDude]

The whole clutch assembly has less then four thousand miles on it but it was replaced in 2007. The majority on the miles were put on by me when I bought it three and a half years ago. The pilot bearing moves smooth and tight.

 

[bikersmurf]

@ 4k miles, I'd run the clutch.

 

[73FJ40]

Do you need to remove the Bell housing to replace that ? I will go looks later to see if I can find it

Yes, the bell housing has to be removed to replace the camshaft 'plug'. Don't do it unless you can see signs of oil leaking from the plug. Your plug has some numbers stamped in it, those numbers weren't on the OEM one I bought.

If you think it's leaking, the Toyota part no. is 90331-48010 and it's called Plug, Expansion(For Camshaft)

Also, before you start anything, read Coolerman's website on how he's accomplished all these tasks.

 

[CarDude]

Yes, the bell housing has to be removed to replace the camshaft 'plug'. Don't do it unless you can see signs of oil leaking from the plug. Your plug has some numbers stamped in it, those numbers weren't on the OEM one I bought.

If you think it's leaking, the Toyota part no. is 90331-48010 and it's called Plug, Expansion(For Camshaft)

Also, before you start anything, read Coolerman's website on how he's accomplished all these tasks.

Thanks

 

[sggoat]

If you are in doubt and have the time and $$ I vote to change everything while you have it apart. For the pilot bearing I used a bolt and some hamburger buns and it came right out. Posers how to on the rear main seal was also beneficial to me.

If the thing wants to chatter when in reverse--you have a candidate for replacement--

 

[CarDude]

Can you tell if the sealing plug at the end of the camshaft is leaking the oil? That's been a problem for a number of people. It's located at midpoint of a line drawn directly between the center of the pilot bearing and the center of the timing window, half covered by the bell housing. I just replaced mine and used an OEM one (less that $3) because the lip is VERY shallow. There have been some comments that generic ones are too deep and when set in place, push up against the end of the camshaft resulting in woe and misery.

Do you have any pictures ? Is the plug a threaded one are is it pressed in like a freeze out plug?
Thanks

 

[CarDude]

I have been doing some research and it seems like the oil plug is a big culprit in leaking.I am trying to do things the right way and once.so it looks like I need to remove the Bell housing and figure out what's going on.how do I supply the engine with the Bell housing off ? And does any one have any insight on what I should expect?

And while I am asking when I replace the oil pan gasket all I need to remove is the pan? I read the someone did this and be removed the fear main cap. Thanks