On the road w/temp gauge (1 Viewer)

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Ed,

226 is when the A/C compressor cuts out. Certainly hot. IIRC you do not have forced induction? If you do not, something is NOT right IMHO. You should not get hot, even towing, with a stock motor. The 146 degree air temp is believeable as the air is drawn in thru the fender and the air cleaner assy before it hits the mass airflow sensor. I think you should flush the block and toss out the radiator and replace it with the 93-94 3 row brass radiator. You should also take a hard look at the fan clutch. As a bandaid, you can pull the hills with the A/C off and the heater on "high". Roll the windows down and hold yer nose. It does help.

Dan
 
Beo, I've been drooling over the photo of Bill's Greedy...

CDAN, 226 is hot. I'm thinking of maxing at 224. We turn the A/C off on any incline. We are really maxing out this vehicle's towing capacity - at least pulling 5000 lbs.

I had the flush done at the Toyota dealer. It was supposed to be complete; block included. $149.

Had belts replaced and fan clutch inspected last Friday.

Is the 93-94 rad a significant improvement? Capacity and effectiveness? Is it a simple swap? If so, I would consider having it done on the way home at a dealer in Tuscon.

I'm only experiencing the above normal reading on inclines.

A friend had similar experiences with his 96 towing a similar load and a couple of forum members have mentioned the temp gauge jumping up going uphill towing a boat, but I'm willing to try to improve the cooling situation.

Checked the fluid levels this morning. Haven't lost any coolant. Oil is clean - still at full level.

Thanks much for the suggestions and advise. It's always welcome. I hope my next post isn't from some internet cafe in Mexico asking you how much a new complete motor costs and how much freight to get it to San Carlos...

Ed

BTW.. stock - no s/c or turbo
 
Big revelation! Traveling early todeay, I was able to run 50 mph up a gradual incline and the temp reading was between 212 and 217. The big difference seemed to be the intake air temp. It was 104 degrees.

Yesterday, in the heat of the afternoon, the intake air temp was 146 degrees and I would have had to run about 20 mph to keep coolant temp around 226 on a similar incline.

Intake air temp difference of 42 degrees has about a 10 - 15 degree effect on coolant temp. Of course its the outside air temp that affects the intake air temp, but intake air temp is the measurement I have available, accurately.

Maybe I'll travel at night on the way home...

Cheers,

Ed
 
OBDII------enough reason to buy a '96 year or newer....who cares about the transmission anyway.

Has anyone permanently mounted an OBD II in their vehicle? Would there be a problem leaving one plugged in at all times.

I pull a boat and would love to be able to monitor temps, etc. it might save a head gasket.

What an excellent way to monitor your systems. I might stop going to Autozone get scanned and buy one of my own.

Tenncrusher
 
Landandsea,

That's pretty cool feedback you are getting but I'd be pretty scared the way your truck is behaving. A few suggestions:

I wonder if a cleaned or new air filter might help a little. Are you running a K&N or OEM?

Get your trailer weighed at the next scale you pass. Also, what's the weight distribution on your boat/trailer like? Any chance you are tongue heavy?

Did Toyota switch coolants on you during the flush (e.g., did they put red coolant in there when it used to be green). What colour is it now? Personally, I would get it flushed again and ask them to specifically look for blockages in the rad. While they are there have them check the water pump and the fan.
 
The 16400-66040 3 row radiator drops right in with NO changes. Everything around it is the same. The list price is $501.01
&nbsp:Don't buy it on the road if you can help it. You don't need to pay that much 8) .

By the way, the 2 row 16400-66081 is $611.75

A snorkel would bring outside air in instead of from inside the fender. That air should be cooler. (A great excuse to get one ::) )
 
>> A snorkel would bring outside air in instead of from <<
>> inside the fender. That air should be cooler. <<

Good point! Common sense says this is true but getting hard data would have to be done in conjunction with a snorkle install; same day, same outside temp, same distance, etc.

I'll try to remember to do this when/if I ever install the snorkle.

-B-
 
Ed, Tenncrusher, and others interested in OBD-II scanners,

I selected the unit from Harrison R&D. Very little research was done and price was a big issue with me. My goal was to get a PC based system that would tell me what the MIL code was and to reset it.  In doing the (limited) research I came across this one. The fact that they had an inexpensive "addon" that allowed a Palm device to be the scanner was a big plus for me. (I love Palm devices!)  Total delivered cost was around $180 which includes a Windows GUI version, the hardware OBD-II interface, universal version (all makes and models) and the Palm software.

They also have a published API for the more adventuresome with a background in programming (http://www.ghg.net/dharrison/OBDScanAPI.PDF)

Tenncrusher was asking about a real-time digital display. Check this out.

m515_dual_meter75%25.jpg
m515_new_graph.jpg


You can select any of the OBD-II data feeds to monitor. RPM, Intake temp, coolant temp, fuel pressure, etc.

-B-
 
That was the MAIN reason I purchased a snorkel. With the turbo on the same side and after driving about 20 miles, you could not hold your hand on the fender for more then 30 seconds. Heat is bad.
Oops, work time done, gotta run. More later...

Yomama
 
Made it to San Carlos, Mexico with no problems today. Tomorrow the boat goes in the water and the 80 gets a weeklong rest.

Since we practically dehydrated with the windows down in the Arizona desert yesterday - I think the 146 degree intake air temp was also the outside air temp - AT LEAST IT FELT THAT WAY - today we used the ABDII scanner to make sure we didn´t shut the AC down. Never exceeded 221. Copilot agreed that the $259 was money well spent. For $259 I got a handheld unit that does a lot more than I´ve used it for so far. It reads and describes codes and resets them. It will also diagnose a long list of problems including cylinder misfires. The software and cable to connect it to a PC is an $89 option available from the manufacturer. Actually this devise workedout better for us - we hung it from the rearview mirror. Try that with a laptop!

Semlin...fresh OEM air filter. I´m too scared to weigh the trailer. The 80 looks very small compared to what it´s pulling.

Red and green. Very interesting point. When I had the system flushed after I bought the 80, red went in. But you just jogged my memory that I found a receipt in the glove box that showed the PO had the heater hose replaced about 2 months before I bought it. The work was done at a Shell station in San Diego and since he lived in Los Angeles, it´s safe to assume it wasn´t preventative maintenance going on there. And I doubt the Shell station had the red stuff. Egads I´m not goimg to sleep tonight. I will definitely stop at a Toyota dealer in Tuscon before I head back to Long Beach CA.
Your red-green comment really hit home.

Yes, snorkels are cool - pardon the pun. Now convince me that an ARB bumper with a 12000 Warn will bring my coolant temp down and I´ll have a good excuse for the next mods.

Thanks for all the info

Éd

BTW.. This Mexican keyboard takes some getting used to. Notice no parentheses in my post. You don´t always get what´s marked on the keys.
 
Ed...I'm glad you made it down safely with your fam. Just reading through the thread, your problem combined with '96cruiser's post jogged my memory. I had a Suburban (I know, a Chevy) and was having the same problems. I had everything inspected or changed in the cooling system. Now where I got into trouble was the inspection of my fan clutch. It appeared to be fine when I brought it in for service. It would spin up at the shop but I finally noticed that at low speeds, on an incline, at high engine speeds, there was no rushing air sound. Long story short, changed out the fan clutch and the problem went away and I had that wonderful rushing air sound. Just a thought for when you get back. Oh BTW, the snorkel comment is true. Just put one on...and a little bit more power too. Enjoy Mexico.
 
16210-66020, list $124.67

I wouldn't pay more than about $93.50 for it 8)
 
BMT, I´ll try to get the fan clutch replaced on the way home. I´ll start looking for a dealer as soon as I cross the border. Thanks for the part no., Dan.
On the red-green issue....The coolant color doesn´t seem to be off'color, like it would be if there was some green mixed in there. I recall from another thread that the color appeared brownish when the two were mixed.

Maybe I should have asked this question at the beginning of this thread.... The handle-lever looking thing between the drivers seat and the console...you are supposed to pull up on that when you start going up hills - right? (Sorry, too many cervesas as thirst quenchers).

Cheers,
Ed
 
OK Ed, who's driving? ? ?
-B-
 

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