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ol' jenny build thread

Discussion in 'NM- High Desert Cruisers' started by Source3, Sep 30, 2009.

  1. Source3

    Source3 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    650
    Location:
    Durango, CO
    I bought the FJ40 in April 09. It was all original. Here is a brief rundown:

    • Production Date: 9/72
    • F engine
    • 3 spd tranny (on floor)
    • original transfer case
    • drum brakes all around
    • original carb
    • rust in typical areas, rear quarter panels (golf ball size) and near bottom of door.

    Before the first wash and wax.

    [​IMG]

    Below is an image of ol ' jenny before any modifications with the exception of a wash and wax
    [​IMG]

    I plan to use ol' jenny for a daily driver, light trail use, and for work that requires 300 miles of highway travel (one way).

    This is what I am planning on doing to ol' jenny:

    1. new weatherstripping and window felt; complete Fall 2009
    2. swap in a 2F with factory power steering 4spd tranny; completed July 2010
    3. Disk brakes (all four); completed Fall 2009
    4. OME 2.5" Lift; completed Fall 2009
    5. 33x9.5 BFG; completed Winter 2010
    6. Body work and paint; hmm...


    As of Sept 2011

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2013
  2. Source3

    Source3 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    650
    Location:
    Durango, CO
    OME 2.5" Deluxe Lift Kit Install

    Thanks to DanS HJ45 and Beno, who helped me install the OME Lift on Sept. 24, 2009. Per Dans HJ45 suggestion, OME heavy springs were installed in front; medium springs in the rear. Below are the changes in height from top of rim to bottom of fender:
    increase, in inches:

    • left front: 0.5
    • right front: 0.5
    • right rear: 2.5
    • left rear: 5.0
    Below are measurements from top of axle to bottom of bump stop:

    • Left and Right Front: 3 7/8 in
    • Left Rear: ................ 5.0 in
    • Right Rear: ............... 5 3/8 in
    The relative feel of the lift, just by having to climb into ol' jenny, is approximately 3 inches.

    Below is a picture of the lift.
    [​IMG]
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2013
  3. Source3

    Source3 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    650
    Location:
    Durango, CO
    Disk Brake Conversion Planning

    The purpose of this thread is to help me plan my disk brake conversion. I included a lot of questions. The thread is divided into three groups: 1) general assumptions, 2) front, and 3) rear.

    Current state of vehicle relevant to disk brake conversion: drum brakes on all four, brake booster, Selectro lockouts, 4 welded T15x5 1/2 JJDOT rims, one rivited rim with no identification marks.

    General Assumptions


    1. Current stock front axle has course splined birfields
    2. Rivited rim will not work with disk brakes. Rubs slightly on the caliper.
    3. Selectro lockouts will not work with fine splined birfield
    I may be able to buy a stock rim from the dealer. However, does anyone have an extra rim they want to sell?

    Front Disk Break Conversion:

    I am planning to use an axle from a 1977 FJ40 (from BionicCruiser) from the knuckle on out. Note, the 3rd member and birfields stay with BionicCruiser. Perhaps I can obtain fine splined birfields from another HDC member. Pappy, did you mention that you may have birfields you would like to sell? And if so, will they work with the lockouts on BionicCruiser's axle (assuming BionicCruiser no longer needs his lockouts). I do not know which type of lockouts are on BionicCruisers axle as the axle is still at his house. If Pappy does not have the birfs, Poser has two sets, one just being the birf (outer axle), and the other being the inner and outer axle.

    Once I obtain the new axle, I will have the rotors turned and purchase new pads for the calipers. However, what do I need to purchase, if anything, when putting on the knuckles, birs, etc. From CruiserOutfitters, here are my options:

    1. Knucle Rebuild Kit - disk axle
    2. Knucle Rebuild Kit with Bearings - disk axle
    3. Knuckle Wiper Kit
    4. Inner Axle Seal
    It would be great if I did not need #1 or #2 so I can save some money! I will figure out the brake lines once I see BionicCruisers axle.

    Rear Disk Brake Conversion:
    I ordered Poser's rear disk brake conversion kit. I also ordered the Tombstone Tabs as described in Poser's install thread. See Poser's post #5 and last image in #6.

    I will head down to the u-pull in a few weeks to pull some GM Metric Calipers off a Monte Carlo or other suitable vehicle to avoid the core fee when I buy new loaded calipers. I perfer to support Napa whenever possible. Therefore, I am planning to buy the calipers from Napa.

    I need to think a little on the brake lines. I have two options, either use Downey brake lines because Pappy has an extra set. Or have some built at PECO as suggested by Cruisergreg. I am leaning toward Poser's setup with the Tombstone Tabs and have PECO build me what I need.

    I will be installing a Brake Proportioning Valve from Summitt.
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2009
  4. pappy

    pappy photosynthesizing Moderator

    Messages:
    6,930
    Location:
    Palm trees and cool streams
    My dos centavos.

    Use the birfields from Shawn's axle with his hubs.

    Option #2 on the knuckle kit. Do it right.

    When you get the calipers get the flex line along with a little piece of hard line that will have the correct flare nut. Make your own rear lines. PECO is not needed here. Several companies sell the new lines. I bought mine from TSM. It had the banjo on one end for the caliper and the 10mm flare needed on the other.
  5. Source3

    Source3 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    650
    Location:
    Durango, CO
    Shawn is keeping his birfields.
  6. Bad Mojo

    Bad Mojo

    Messages:
    911
    Location:
    New Mexico
    I have a set of birfields from my 77 front axle that I am trying to get ride of. I got of ride them because I switched from Warn hubs to Aisan hubs. I would be willing to sell them or trade them for some mini truck or 60/62 birfields.
  7. BionicCruiser

    BionicCruiser

    Messages:
    2,493
    Location:
    Albuquerque, NM
    it has longfields that are going into project 16. but i do have trail spares around here somewhere. if they won't work in a aisin hub, i don't need them. my only use for spares will be in the 60 for the boys.
  8. BionicCruiser

    BionicCruiser

    Messages:
    2,493
    Location:
    Albuquerque, NM
    also Andrew looking at the lift measurements you got, it looks like the new suspension fixed the "cruiser lean".:lol:
  9. Source3

    Source3 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    650
    Location:
    Durango, CO
    Front Disk Brake Conversion

    Ok, we may have the birfields figured out. I can use Paul's birfs from his 77 axle and Shawns knuckles on out from his 77 axle. But,
    1. will Paul's birfs work with Shawn's lockouts (Shawn, which lockouts do you have)?
    2. will Paul's birfs connect to my 1973 inner axle?
  10. Bad Mojo

    Bad Mojo

    Messages:
    911
    Location:
    New Mexico
    If you still need lock outs I will also sell you my Warns. Trying to get ride of them as a package, but if we need to split them up it is fine. We should test fit my birfields because there was a discussion that my front axle may of been replaced at some point. This came up when rebuilding it and swapping on Aisans. So you may get lucky and they will work perfect.
  11. BionicCruiser

    BionicCruiser

    Messages:
    2,493
    Location:
    Albuquerque, NM
    Paul's should work fine. it has Warn hubs. the issue is that the Aisin hubs are shorter and the longer birf outer is too long. these are the long Warns, so no issue. if the birfs are the short ones, i have heard that there is still enough spline in the long hub to work fine. you should be good to go.

  12. BionicCruiser

    BionicCruiser

    Messages:
    2,493
    Location:
    Albuquerque, NM
    oh, and the inner axle to birf should be all the same, so no problem there either.
  13. Source3

    Source3 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    650
    Location:
    Durango, CO
    Ok...birfield problem solved. I will use Paul's birfs and Shawn's Warn hubs. I wonder if Paul's long birfs will work with my Selectro hubs? Just a thought.

    I will coordinate the swapping of parts in a few weeks. I am in and out of town until mid-October.
  14. BionicCruiser

    BionicCruiser

    Messages:
    2,493
    Location:
    Albuquerque, NM
    no, the splines on Paul's birf are fine and your selectros are coarse. the fine splines are MUCH stronger! you will see the difference when you get them apart. i may even have a good example of fine spline birf, course spline birf AND the even older ball and claw that Toyota used, all here in the garage. i'll see if i can scrounge them up for a pick.
  15. BionicCruiser

    BionicCruiser

    Messages:
    2,493
    Location:
    Albuquerque, NM
    here are 2 of the 3 (i'm sitting home bored, can anyone tell?:flipoff2:).

    your '73 birfs have the bell like the left one and the end splines like the right one.

    left is a '77 birf, right one is and old ball and claw. not sure what year they went to coarse spline birf, '65 maybe?

    Attached Files:

  16. Source3

    Source3 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    650
    Location:
    Durango, CO
    The Disk Brake Swap

    Ok, I have all the parts to do the brake swap from drums to disk. Below is a summary of the parts
    • Front knuckles on out from a 1977 FJ40
    • Birfields from a different 1977 FJ40 axle
    • 1977 FJ40 front calipers from Napa
    • 1981 Monte Carlo calipers for rear from Napa
    • Mounting braket and rotors for rear (from Poser)
    • Knuckle rebuilt kit from Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters (upgraded to the Marlin inner seal and ordered tie rod ends)
    • Proportioning valve from Summit Racing

    Below is a picture of the donor axle from BionicCruiser:
    [​IMG]

    Below is a picture of the tear down on Ol'Jenny
    [​IMG]

    And Dan S. helping me figure out what I am doing (thanks Dan, could not have done it without your help!):
    [​IMG]

    This is as far as we got on Nov. 22 2009.
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2013
  17. beno

    beno 33030-60450 Moderator Supporting Vendor

    Messages:
    12,599
    Location:
    Covington, GA
    :cheers:

    Nice job Andrew and Dan. Wish I could have stopped by yesterday but with parents visiting in town it would have ben tough to justify spending a few hours on a cruiser.
  18. DanS HJ-45

    DanS HJ-45 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    4,064
    Location:
    Idaho Springs, CO
    Those two knuckles look really good now. All clean and painted up pretty... And nice new bearings, seals, etc.... They really came out nicely.

    BTW--yesterday was the first time I had actually used my fancy pants knuckle centering SST. It is a pretty click setup! If anyone else wants to swap different knuckles to a different axle housing, then you're welcome to use it.

    Dan
  19. Cruisergreg

    Cruisergreg

    Messages:
    1,838
    Yeah I borrowed one from Dan (the other one) and it made life very easy during that part of the rebuild.
  20. Source3

    Source3 SILVER Star

    Messages:
    650
    Location:
    Durango, CO
    More brake conversion stuff

    Fast forward to Nov. 26th 2009 ---
    Repacked Warn hubs and installed the rotor and hub. I stopped at the tab washer and inner nut. Following the FSM, I hand tightened the inner nut, backed off 1/16" turn. According to Guppie's thread I am within specs at 11 lbs using the fish scale method. However, I am unsure if the bearing are set correctly and will wait to finish the job until I buy a torque wrench and do it like Guppie did.

    Nov. 27 2009
    While waiting until I buy a torque wrench to finish the front, I started on the rear disk brake conversion. Following Poser's write-up the first thing was to remove the backing plate (see below photo) for drum brakes.

    To remove the backing plate I can either cut it off using a torch or sawsall, or pull the axle out. I never opened up a differential and did not know the condition of the third member. So, I elected to pull the axle. Below is a summary of the steps followed by pictures:

    1. drain the fluid
    2. remove the axle housing cover
    3. remove the pinion shaft pin
    4. remove the pinion shaft
    5. remove the spacer
    6. Inside the differential case the side gear and side gear thrust washer will fall out as they are free floating
    7. push the axle in, this will free the clip that will fall out.
    8. pull out the axle
    9. remove backing plate
    10. replace the axle seal
    11. put axle back in
    12. install clip (it just slides in) and pull axle out a little to set
    13. install side gear, thrust washer, spacer, and pinion shaft. This is real fun as the parts free float and fall out until the pinion shaft is installed. Install shaft pin, and seal up the differential. Fill with fluid.
    14. then follow Poser's write-up (from Poser's kit). Had some issues though, see below photos and comments

    Now the photo documentation.

    Remove the pinion shaft pin:
    [​IMG]

    Remove the pinion shaft (slides out easily):
    [​IMG]

    Remove the spacer:
    [​IMG]

    Location of c-clip (loose fit, just slides in and out):
    [​IMG]

    Removed parts (from left to right then bottom; side gear, spacer, pinion shaft with pin, c-clip):
    [​IMG]

    Rear axle with backing plate and axle removed. The gold colored ring in the photo is the axle seal. Replace it.
    [​IMG]

    Installed Poser's bracket. But had a problem, the bottom bolt for the caliper cannot be installed with the bracket attached as a portion of my OME 2.5" lift is in the way.
    [​IMG]

    I tried many options from trying to remove the leaf spring holder, moving the bracket to the rear of the axle, flipping the bracket (placed the caliper 1/2 way below the leaf spring). All options had clearance issues. So, I returned the bracket to the position as shown in Poser's write-up. But I had to dry fit the rotor, bracket, and caliper (caliper pins/bolts in place) together and place on the hub. Then bolted everything. I also had to grind a potion of Poser's bracket as my calipers had a lip on the housing and did not set in all the way. The mounting holes were 3 mm off.

    And the mounted caliper:
    [​IMG]

    Nov. 28th 2009
    May take a break today. But here is a shot of my new braided brake lines from Peco. Peco made me all new soft brake lines. The photo is the rear brake line that goes from the frame to the axle. I had Peco make it two inches longer to accommodate my lift.
    [​IMG]

    What I have left to do for this series of modifications:

    • install proportioning vavle (cannot do until I get a flare kit)
    • install brake lines
    • install new tie rod ends
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2013

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