okay, asking for help with 24V charging problem, gotta get groceries (1 Viewer)

[candyhj61]

Japanese/ 1988 hj61 VX 12ht turbo 24V system.

Please pardon any of my kindergarten terminology. My first land cruiser and not a mechanic. Researched truck, fell in love and jumped right in. I have drove it daily for a year without any problems. Learning to maintenance and "fix stuff "with a 2 books, the internet and thread after thread posted here.

First problem was on the first chilly morning (in Texas, 70F, ya'll) truck would not start. Nothing when turn the key. Upon inspection, all battery post were corroded. This had been happening for awhile.

Dad came over said no problem. Took a hunk of lead, a blowtorch, a mold and rebuild all post. Replaced clamps. Drove fine for over a month.

New problem(maybe related to the first jerry rig fix?) started 3 weeks ago.

Symptoms:

Filter/Battery/Turbo lights started blinking intermittently while driving.
Got the book out. Removed alternator. Got bench tested. Guy says the alternator is good.
Put back on.
Problems persists, but seems to happen more often and now I am hearing a click click click, only when lights are blinking. And my head lights ,vent, and volts are surging slightly up to around 28.

Look under hood, the external voltage regulator is "clicking". I can hear it and feel it.
Ordered brand new one from 4x4auto wholesale out of Canada.
Replaced. Nothing changed.
Problems persists , and now my volts are at 32 when lights are blinking. While in park, the volts go up with the rpms when I push the gas pedal. I can't tell if it does this while driving because the
lights pretty much stay on constant now, and I have to drive a ten mile round trip twice a day.

I had considered just ordering a new alternator. But: 800.00 cost.( I can do it, but ouch)
And: I am not convinced it is the alternator, because it cranks up beautifully, one time, every time.
If it were a bad alternator, wouldn't my batteries drain?

I have searched the forum for 24v charging problem and people seem to find different fixes: diodes, solenoids, alternators, relays, ground cables batteries, belt tensions, bad connections.....

I'm not naive enough to think someone can diagnose my truck right here right now.
Just wondering if a big fat red flag pops up with someone. I like the chase and learning to work on this thing, but I gotta get the groceries. Daily.

Where I should start?

I know a diesel mechanic who looked over truck when I first got it. Said there is nothing wrong with this baby, when you want it to come alive, bring it in and I will tune it up.
yeah, but: Cha ching. And: it ran great up until now. I have sent a couple of my employees' vehicles (native gas burners) to him and I trust his advice and my cost is always fair.

I have composed a whole list of things to do/try from this forum, but I am doing everything out of a book and over the phone with my husband, who has no time. Terrible. Now I am almost out of time.
I mean, how long can i drive around at 32 blazing volts, without jacking more stuff up??

Any advise? Just bite the cost and take to someone who knows what they are doing? ie, Mechanic?
I am just frustrated and need direction, I guess.

Thanks!

 

[peteinjp]

I'd get it checks out if you have a good guy. Running around with high voltage is a recipe for further problems and it is your daily. I know how that is and nothing takes away from the enjoyment of having a cool old truck for your daily more than feeling like you aren't hacking it on the parental responsibility side of things.

Pete

 

[bj40green]

Here is a checklist from the FSM.

And a diagram for a 24V HJ61 with a 2H engine:

The fact that you have 32V means that the alternator is not "regulated" and follows the RPM's of the engine.
Or... the IC regulator is defective
Or... the connection inside the box (where the IC regulator is mounted) are bad/corroded
Or... the IC regulator doesn't get the S (Sensing) voltage from the fusible link / B terminal.
This is a diagram and not the real situation under the hood. Under the hood you'll find wires and connectors.
Check the connector with the S wire for corrosion or bad contact.

EDIT: Here is a check procedure (for your mechanic).

Hope this helps you, or your mechanic, to figure it out.

Rudi

 

[candyhj61]

Hey thanks for the replies and diagrams. I have parked it for now.
Went through the checklist, can't find anything causing the alternator to read at 32V. External Voltage regulator is brand new. fuses, cables and grounds all check out okay.
I followed instructions on checking the drive belt tension with a ruler and it seems to be okay. Would be closer to loose rather than too tight, which would cause undercharging (?), I think.
My husband is nervous about me taking my ride to a regular mechanic and suggest sending the whole alternator to Dan at 4wheel Auto in Canada, to have him rebuild it.
So as much as I was hoping for a quick little fix...I am shipping the alternator north and hoping this resolves the issue.

Man, I love learning about this truck. I'm hooked. Everytime I think I know a little something, I realize just how much I don't know. But, I know more today than yesterday. As with most things, experience takes time.

Will update when fixed.

 

[bj40green]

Okay, so you have an external Voltage Regulator.
The alternator is charging (32V) but is not "regulated".
Easy check..... disconnect the Voltage Regulator and check voltage.
Voltage should go down to 24V.

Rudi

 

[absalom]

Eagerly following this one. Bj40green sounds like they've found the answer.

 

[candyhj61]

Okay, ya'll, I'm back on the road.
Short story: adjusted the external voltage regulator. Problem resolved and performance of truck improved.
Rudi, seriously, thank you for steering me in the right direction.

Before finally deciding to test the brand new external voltage regulator(i.e. long story):
-We went back through the checklist this morning. Meticulously, this time. We disconnected everything from the battery terminals and chased all wiring. There was a rat's nest of aftermarket wiring running into dead toggles for non existent fog lights, into my console under the carpet, etc...wiring just tucked in the grill, under reserves, etc. Crazy. Hooked right up to the battery. Removed this disaster. Problem persisted.

-We also tested for continuity of the fusible link and between batteries, etc. Found nothing wrong.

-Took batteries up to NAPA to have tested, even though they tested fine for us. Right battery tested dead. Left tested okay. Purchased two brand new batteries. Cleaned up the clamps with sandpaper. Installed. Problem persisted.

Decided again, it must be the alternator.

I said, Husband, just test the brand new VR with that meter thing you have there. Followed instructions and it tested exactly how it was supposed to. Tested the old VR. Yep, read perfect, too.

Started reading a lot of literature and diagrams and a video posted by bj40green, above.
Husband took the OLD VR, hooked it back up to vehicle and told me to crank it up. He made adjustments with needle nose pliers with truck running, and me at the helm observing and reporting back with lights, volts, etc. as he made the adjustments.
I believe it was the relay arm that he adjusted. When everything looked right inside, he put top back on VR and bolted back up.

Interesting thing occurred-
The red turbo light that has been on for a year...went off.
The green turbo light now comes on only when I get on the pedal.
The truck climbs hills better and GOES when I push the pedal and generally performs better, I think.

I am happy to have really dug in on this. I have a general understanding of the charging system now and
feel like I have commandeered my vehicle's wiring from 26 years worth of Jerry riggers.
I am hoping this problem is solved.

 

[candyhj61]

 

[candyhj61]

Wires that went nowhere^^^

 

[peteinjp]

Nice! That's teamwork! Glad you went thru it all and got it worked out.

P