Oil drip into woodstove thread (1 Viewer)

[bigndn]

Well, instead of continuing to hijack the antifreeze thread, here's one dedicated to the woodstove with oil drip. Pics here. Any questions or requests.......I'll try to answer them.

When I got my shop stove, the dude that made it had already welded in a threaded bung just for oil drip. I picked 3/8" flexible copper tube and used compression fittings, bushings, and couplers to make it all fit together. Use whatever sized you want, but remember that if it's cold, oil will take a while to get there in a smaller tube. I drilled a hole in the bucket and used nut-seal-bucket-seal-nut to make it leak proof. Any kind of valve will work, faucet type, 1/4 turn, etc, but you see what I used.

I dump another 5 gal bucket of used oil in when it gets low. No screen , but I would filter out pine needles and other coarse debris.

I have to clean the bung at the drip site once in a while, I just stab a screwdriver up from the inside while the stove is cool.

 

[RavenTai]

I like that stove, especially the heat exchanger in the flu,

does the guy make em regulatory or was it a one off?

 

[bigndn]

He has a welding shop and just does these on the side. That's the small size one. It weighed somewhere around 450#.

 

[splitshot]

Great idea. But is there any chance the burn may work itself back to the supply bucket?

 

[bigndn]

Great idea. But is there any chance the burn may work itself back to the supply bucket?

I can honestly say that it hasn't so far. I've tried and have worried about that myself. I think the oil has to be heated to a critical temp to burn, and can't do that in the copper tube. Anyone know what temp oil ignites at?

 

[sirenmoses]

I can honestly say that it hasn't so far. I've tried and have worried about that myself. I think the oil has to be heated to a critical temp to burn, and can't do that in the copper tube. Anyone know what temp oil ignites at?

My pops has used those before, kept the shop toasty!

da google brings this interesting website: Used / Waste Oil Burners, Heaters and Boilers from BurnsAll but doesn't answer the ignition temperature question.

 

[Joe_E]

If that's pine stacked there next to your stove, the combination of that and drain oil must look like a locomotive when burning.

I gotta say that is not something I have come across out east here. I have a couple friends who have the big drain oil heaters in their shops but have never seen an oil drip woodstove.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Great idea. But is there any chance the burn may work itself back to the supply bucket?

No, because the burn would require oxygen, which is only available inside the woodstove, and in limited quantity there.

Thanks for the pics, Big!

 

[bigndn]

If that's pine stacked there next to your stove, the combination of that and drain oil must look like a locomotive when burning.

I gotta say that is not something I have come across out east here. I have a couple friends who have the big drain oil heaters in their shops but have never seen an oil drip woodstove.

Some lodgepole pine, mostly western larch. Yup, she puts a bunch of smoke up when she's getting going. After as short while, you can't see it at all. But you can detect the sweet smell of motor oil in the air outside.

 

[bigndn]

Oh yeah, I can go thru 5 gallons in a weekend if it's really cold outside. I'm good friends with the owner of the local Jiffy Lube type shop and I can pull in and get 10 gallons any time I want it. They have to pay someone to take it away, so it's a win-win. Check out your local shops if you want an endless supply.

 

[RavenTai]

The flash point of a recent oil change of mine was 380°F, that is the minimum temperature the oil would have to be heated to release just enough vapors to be ignited by an exterior ignition source, oil from carberated engines would have a lower flash pont due to higher feul content, so for fire safety you would want to make sure that the oil tank stayed well below that temperature by keeping it far enough away from the stove. the temperature at witch any major portion of the oil would boil and vaporize and therefore be highly flammable is much higher,

along with the tank it would be a good idea it keep the valve and pipe upstream of it below the flash point also, any vapors generated after the valve will just harmlessly flow into the stove and be burned. the coking at the bung is likely the solids that get left behind as the oil vaporizes and it apparently in Bigndns case only happens at the bung, looks like a good setup.

 

[CruisinGA]

This is pretty sweet.

Can't wait till I have a garage/shop big enough for a wood/oil stove. That's when I'll know I've made it.

 

[bigndn]

This is pretty sweet.

Can't wait till I have a garage/shop big enough for a wood/oil stove. That's when I'll know I've made it.

Wow........if that's all it takes to 'make it', then I'm set.

 

[sirenmoses]

do want, along w/the shop/garage space needing heat.