FJBen
SILVER Star
Well if you were lucky enough to have an 80 series with that magic rotary dial then things are good....unless that is when you turn it...it keeps flashing... then they aren't as good....but still better than those "less fortunate" 
Here were the symptoms that I was having, turn dial to lock rear, just continual flashing. No "relay click" from the passenger kick panel (where the locker ECU is) No matter how many small figure 8's and circles I drove for how long, it wouldn't lock. Cleaned the connectors, still nothing. Tried the 9 volt battery directly on the connector...NADA.
So I decided to take the locker partially apart to see what was up.
(pic courtesy of Slee Offroad)
I started to pull the part marked (cover with stops) and red fine dust just started pouring out. *IF YOU PULL THIS COVER THE SPRING TENSION/ALIGMENT WILL BE OFF MOST LIKELY, JUST FYI WHEN YOU GO TO PUT IT BACK TOGETHER"
So after getting it all out, everything was completely rusted/bound/stuck/falling apart. There is a bleeder tube that can let water in...and apparently it did. So after much talking with some of the experts...I decided I had 3 options. You can't fix/replace any parts...just the whole unit.
A. Buy new OEM locker from toyota/C-dan ~$600
B. Buy used one, junkyard/aftermarket resale ~$200
C. Downey Cable Locker, $180 infinitely backorder, few other issues...
I decided to buy used and you prolly understand why I didn't choose new...$$$ and the downey prolly wasn't coming available anytime soon. Plus I like the factory way the best. So after getting my used E-locker I went to work on the beasty.
Drive up on a car ramp to give yourself some more room under the vehicle. As usual make sure your brake is on, and that you blocked the wheels…You don’t want this falling on you. Get your safety glasses also cause debris is going to fall in your eyes…always falls in mine.
You only need a few tools: ratchet, 10mm, 12mm and I belive 14mm, flathead screwdriver, small flathead, rubber mallet, gasketmaker. Crescent Wrench.
Start out by removing the metal shield(rock guard) around the locker, 3 bolts 14mm,
You’ll see the unit now. Disconnect the two wire harness connections. One controls the locker and the other is the indicator on whether it’s locked or not. You may need to use the small flathead to release the locking clip if you have big hands like me ( the ladies like that)
I had to use a crescent wrench to remove the “indicator sensor” don’t break it!!!
On the main housing, there will be 4 12mm bolts, 2 bottom, two top to take out.
Then you’ll need to take the cover off, where the “indicator sensor” was at. 3 10mm bolts are holding that one. You’ll need to “pry” this off carefully with the screwdriver/mallet as it is sealed. Should come off rather easily. Inside you’ll see a 10mm bolt. This is the bolt that attaches the actuator rod to the shift fork (which moves the locker) Take that bolt out and you should be able to slide the whole assembly out. May need to pry a little as well as it will be sealed also.
***Measure the distance that the actuator rod is out from the assembly. Make sure that your new one matches that distance. If it doesn’t you’ll have to move the arm by using an alternate method…aka 9 volt or car battery. The 9 volt wouldn’t work for me but the battery did. Here is a pic that "photoman" has posted on the board.
Once you have that distance correct, use some orange Toyota gasket maker and seal the the assembly and cover plates after you have cleaned them nicely.
Slide the locker back into place, bolt the shift fork to the output rod and put that cover back on. Put the sensor back in. Tighten all the bolts back down and connect the two harnesses. Put the shield back on and you are now ready for a test drive!!!
Go to a dirt spot, put her in low and lock her in! My first try took about a minute and I was a little nervous, but by the end of the alley she was locking in about 3 seconds.
Pic from MUD...
Here were the symptoms that I was having, turn dial to lock rear, just continual flashing. No "relay click" from the passenger kick panel (where the locker ECU is) No matter how many small figure 8's and circles I drove for how long, it wouldn't lock. Cleaned the connectors, still nothing. Tried the 9 volt battery directly on the connector...NADA.
So I decided to take the locker partially apart to see what was up.
(pic courtesy of Slee Offroad)
I started to pull the part marked (cover with stops) and red fine dust just started pouring out. *IF YOU PULL THIS COVER THE SPRING TENSION/ALIGMENT WILL BE OFF MOST LIKELY, JUST FYI WHEN YOU GO TO PUT IT BACK TOGETHER"
So after getting it all out, everything was completely rusted/bound/stuck/falling apart. There is a bleeder tube that can let water in...and apparently it did. So after much talking with some of the experts...I decided I had 3 options. You can't fix/replace any parts...just the whole unit.
A. Buy new OEM locker from toyota/C-dan ~$600
B. Buy used one, junkyard/aftermarket resale ~$200
C. Downey Cable Locker, $180 infinitely backorder, few other issues...
I decided to buy used and you prolly understand why I didn't choose new...$$$ and the downey prolly wasn't coming available anytime soon. Plus I like the factory way the best. So after getting my used E-locker I went to work on the beasty.
Drive up on a car ramp to give yourself some more room under the vehicle. As usual make sure your brake is on, and that you blocked the wheels…You don’t want this falling on you. Get your safety glasses also cause debris is going to fall in your eyes…always falls in mine.
You only need a few tools: ratchet, 10mm, 12mm and I belive 14mm, flathead screwdriver, small flathead, rubber mallet, gasketmaker. Crescent Wrench.
Start out by removing the metal shield(rock guard) around the locker, 3 bolts 14mm,
You’ll see the unit now. Disconnect the two wire harness connections. One controls the locker and the other is the indicator on whether it’s locked or not. You may need to use the small flathead to release the locking clip if you have big hands like me ( the ladies like that)
I had to use a crescent wrench to remove the “indicator sensor” don’t break it!!!
On the main housing, there will be 4 12mm bolts, 2 bottom, two top to take out.
Then you’ll need to take the cover off, where the “indicator sensor” was at. 3 10mm bolts are holding that one. You’ll need to “pry” this off carefully with the screwdriver/mallet as it is sealed. Should come off rather easily. Inside you’ll see a 10mm bolt. This is the bolt that attaches the actuator rod to the shift fork (which moves the locker) Take that bolt out and you should be able to slide the whole assembly out. May need to pry a little as well as it will be sealed also.
***Measure the distance that the actuator rod is out from the assembly. Make sure that your new one matches that distance. If it doesn’t you’ll have to move the arm by using an alternate method…aka 9 volt or car battery. The 9 volt wouldn’t work for me but the battery did. Here is a pic that "photoman" has posted on the board.
Once you have that distance correct, use some orange Toyota gasket maker and seal the the assembly and cover plates after you have cleaned them nicely.
Slide the locker back into place, bolt the shift fork to the output rod and put that cover back on. Put the sensor back in. Tighten all the bolts back down and connect the two harnesses. Put the shield back on and you are now ready for a test drive!!!
Go to a dirt spot, put her in low and lock her in! My first try took about a minute and I was a little nervous, but by the end of the alley she was locking in about 3 seconds.
Pic from MUD...
