OBA System Installed & Working (1 Viewer)

[LandCrusher'70]

On Board Air System Installed & Working

I'll try to make this short and sweet without leaving anything out (hopefully).

It started with a simple sketch:

Then I just started collecting parts.

YORK 210 Compressor - eBay
Compressor Bracket, Pulley, and Air Manifold - Slee
50' 3/8" Air Line & Fittings - McMaster-Carr
150 psi Pop-off (safety) Valve & Check Valve - McMaster-Carr
Pressure Gauge, Pressure Regulator w/ Gauge, & Air/Moisture Filter - Lowes
YORK 8-AN fitting - NAPA
Hi-Temp Leader Hose - Amazon
Adjustable Pressure Switch (Square 'D') - eBay
2.5 gal Air Tank - eBay
Quick Release Air Fittings - Sears
Rubber Air Fitting Covers - Kilby
Toyota Hazard Switch (for power) - eBay
Various Adapter Fittings - Industrial Liquidators (Kearny Mesa)
Misc. Hardware - Lowes

Then came the assembly:
The fresh air line and fittings were left over from an old VW I used to have when I was 18. It routes under the air filter and attached to a bulkhead fitting centered on the housing. The Square 'D' pressure switch is set to turn off @ 130 psi. It has about a 15 psi range from stop to start. When the system hits 115 psi, it turns the compressor back on.

90° Bulkhead fitting inside air filter:

[EDIT]
Air/moisture filter:

[/EDIT]

Because the Slee Manifold is tapped for ARB switches (British threads), I had to re-tap to accept 1/8 pipe threads for the 150 psi pop-off valve. The valve is behind the system pressure gauge.

Air lines to tank and rear quick connect:
I used the existing running board mounting holes and hardware to mount the lines.

2.5 gal Air Tank:

The air tank mount is the OEM spare tire carrier, flipped over, spaced down and trimmed to fit around the Slee hitch. You can see the spacers in the photo above (middle right). The pressure release for the tank is cable actuated, so I don't have to crawl under the truck to release pressure.

For the Quick Release air fittings, I went to Sears. Their fittings allow for one handed connections (you don't have to pull back on the collar to connect).

And finally, the power. I picked up a Tercel Hazard switch on eBay for 99¢, mapped out the pins and connected power. My wife made the "cute" button icon.

A few rigs (Bluetribal, KightOwl, and myself) took a trip to Anza-Borrego last weekend (note the mud in pictures) and had a chance to test the system. It worked flawlessly. We aired down and up at will.

BTW: I have a hand throttle, so when airing up, I locked the RPM's in around 1,000.

Enjoy.

 

[womacje]

Nice set up! How much did that set you back for the full OBA and what kind of compressor?

 

[SR.GRINGO]

Nice work

I am in the middle of this right now--currently have the manifold, tank, pop off valve, pressure switch, etc installed. I have been pretesting it before I put the york in--I have a leak.

"Because the Slee Manifold is tapped for ARB switches (British threads), I had to re-tap to accept 1/8 pipe threads for the 150 psi pop-off valve. The valve is behind the system pressure gauge"

Is Slees whole manifold British threads? I retapped the 1/8 but what about the 1/4--is it NPT? I have a leak in the 1/4 where my gauge sits....

 

[LandCrusher'70]

Nice set up! How much did that set you back for the full OBA and what kind of compressor?

I believe it was around $550 - $560. Comparable to a good Co2 tank. The compressor is a belt driven YORK 210.

Nice work

I am in the middle of this right now--currently have the manifold, tank, pop off valve, pressure switch, etc installed. I have been pretesting it before I put the york in--I have a leak.

"Because the Slee Manifold is tapped for ARB switches (British threads), I had to re-tap to accept 1/8 pipe threads for the 150 psi pop-off valve. The valve is behind the system pressure gauge"

Is Slees whole manifold British threads? I retapped the 1/8 but what about the 1/4--is it NPT? I have a leak in the 1/4 where my gauge sits....

Only the 1/8" threads are British (2 ports). The 1/4" is standard NPT. I also have a small leak somewhere, but it really doesn't affect the system too much. I'll find it one day.

The only other items I want to address are an ignition switched (regulated) power source and the internal oil mod found here. I had some oil coming out of the reserve tank when releasing pressure.

HTH.

Reid

 

[Skillet]

That flat out rocks.

Nice job.





(mental note to self...OBA is next on list)

 

[jonheld]

I see no coalescing filter or filters of any kind. Even with doing the York mod of plugging the crank hole I still get copius amounts of oil and water into my tank when the system's been running for a while.

You may want to add this. Have a look at my setup on my site.

 

[LandCrusher'70]

That flat out rocks.

Nice job.





(mental note to self...OBA is next on list)

Thanks!

I see no coalescing filter or filters of any kind. Even with doing the York mod of plugging the crank hole I still get copius amounts of oil and water into my tank when the system's been running for a while.

You may want to add this. Have a look at my setup on my site.

Really?!
Now, the coalescing filter is the one that re-circulates the oil back into the compressor, correct? Or am I thinking of something different?

I'll take a look at yours.

I've seen YORK rebuild 'kits' on eBay occasionally w/ new seals and valves. This may help.

 

[concretejungle]

that's very slick and just how i had envisioned doing my own system. I like the large tank under the rig.

 

[SR.GRINGO]

I just verified with a tap that the 1/4 is npt. Your leak may be your check valve--I lose a little here. Also I assume you used telfon on every connection? The horn rocks

 

[LandCrusher'70]

I just verified with a tap that the 1/4 is npt. Your leak may be your check valve--I lose a little here. Also I assume you used telfon on every connection? The horn rocks

Yep, Teflon on all unions. You're right, it could be the check valve. My system pressurizes to about 130psi. If I don't use it, it will eventually drop to about 120psi and hold (for a while anyway).

 

[jonheld]

Now, the coalescing filter is the one that re-circulates the oil back into the compressor, correct? Or am I thinking of something different?

I've seen YORK rebuild 'kits' on eBay occasionally w/ new seals and valves. This may help.

A coalescing filter separates oil and water from the air. Once it collects in the bowl of the filter I just blow it out. All air compressors will produce water vapor. Since the York runs an oil bath there is some oil blow by as well. This was the primary reason I put my tank first in line. Water and oil collects in the tank and can be blown out easily. This also puts less of a load on the coalescing filter which is before any regulator or gauge. This makes sure that the air hitting the regulator is free of poop. Everything downstream of that is clean air.

You also don't want watery oily air in your tires as certain oil can attack the rubber.

 

[LandCrusher'70]

A coalescing filter separates oil and water from the air. Once it collects in the bowl of the filter I just blow it out. All air compressors will produce water vapor. Since the York runs an oil bath there is some oil blow by as well. This was the primary reason I put my tank first in line. Water and oil collects in the tank and can be blown out easily. This also puts less of a load on the coalescing filter which is before any regulator or gauge. This makes sure that the air hitting the regulator is free of poop. Everything downstream of that is clean air.

You also don't want watery oily air in your tires as certain oil can attack the rubber.

That brings up another question: Some guys are plumbing the filter back into the compressor. This would now introduce water into the compressor, correct? This obviously can't be good.

There are many on-line diagrams showing OBA setups. Some use filters, some don't. Some say "not necessary", some are obviously concerned about it. It's confusing. Plumbing in a filter would not be that difficult. That, in conjunction with a 'rebuild' kit, should get me where I want to be.

BTW: I'm using Polyesther Oil for the compressor. It was had to find "which oil was best". I just read somewhere, someone was using regular motor oil.

 

[jonheld]

I've seen those descriptions of OBA setups with the blow by plumbed back to the compressor. I've been around enough air compressors to know that's a bad practice. A good filter will remove oil, water, and other particles. Decent setups will have multiple filters. Everything washes down into the bowl. While the water will separate from the oil over time the particles will remain and that will be the first thing blown back the the compressor's sump. Even if you are fast enough to shut the valve before the water goes, you will still need to periodically empty the bowl. It's a waste of time, effort, and plumbing supplies IMO.

OBA setups with an oil bath compressor should have a filter IMO. An electric unit that is oil-less will not spew oil, but there will be water vapor in the air. While some water won't be a problem for airing up tires I wouldn't do this for shop air.

Again, I have the tank right off the compressor and this does allow for some separation and settling of the large stuff. The coalescing filter takes care of the rest. I blow out the tank drain after each wheeling trip and empty the filter bowl twice a season.

I rebuilt my York with a rebuild kit before I mounted it. Still blows oil. Sure does fill the tank quickly though.

As far as oil goes, if you open up the crank case it looks just like a 2 cylinder motor. I use motor oil, sometimes gear oil. Usually I top it off with whatever is handy before a trip. Remember the duty cycle and rpm range is far lower than an AC compressor would be.

 

[nakman]

Hey, where did you get those rubber "boots" that go over the quick disconnects? I went to Sears today but they did not have them.

nice install though, working on something very similar..

 

[LandCrusher'70]

Hey, where did you get those rubber "boots" that go over the quick disconnects? I went to Sears today but they did not have them.

nice install though, working on something very similar..

The boots came from Kilby. They can be had for way less than Kilby charges. The Google search for Parker H4-66M.

 

[robmir]

I'll try to make this short and sweet without leaving anything out (hopefully).

Sweet installation, I am speechless

Just not to try to steal your thread but the way you hold the compressor is very similar to the bracket used to hold the second alternator on the dual setups I seen here.

Could you show us a closer picture of the compressor bracket, main pulley, belts and how you adjust belt tension, please

 

[LandCrusher'70]

Sweet installation, I am speechless

Just not to try to steal your thread but the way you hold the compressor is very similar to the bracket used to hold the second alternator on the dual setups I seen here.

Could you show us a closer picture of the compressor bracket, main pulley, belts and how you adjust belt tension, please

Glad you like it.

The compressor bracket and pulley were designed by GreatLakesWaterjet and sold by Slee Off Road. Slee sells the pulley, bracket and mounting hardware. Slee used to offer the belt along with the 'kit', but it looks like this is no longer available. The quality of the bracket and pulley are top-notch. Could not ask for better fit & finish.

See these links for details:
http://www.sleeoffroad.com/technical/tz_york.htm
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=104579&highlight=oba+bracket vbmenu_register("postmenu_1312708", true);

 

[LandCrusher'70]

Added an Air/Moisture filter to remove excess oil and water from the system. (see original post).

That is all.

 

[adventr]

Looks very nice!

Now if i could only find a York compressor mount for my 3FE.....

-Tim