fyton2v
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Let's pretend that you drained the oil from from your transfer case, with good intentions, and then stripped the fill bolt beyond all hope of a simple removal. How would you refill the transfer case with oil?
No gear oil in the transfer case (1 Viewer)
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Remove the breather and fill it though their.Let's pretend that you drained the oil from from your transfer case, with good intentions, and then stripped the fill bolt beyond all hope of a simple removal. How would you refill the transfer case with oil?
Are you sure it's "beyond all hope of a simple removal"? PO had mine really stripped and I managed to finally get it off with a small, quality pipe wrench - CAREFULLY placed and a cheater pipe.
fyton2v
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Found the breather. Really don't want to take off the tranny hump if I don't have to.
I've tried a pipe wrench + hammer. No joy. It really is seized bad. I want to try and heat it up by running the truck around town and see if it helps loosen things a bit. But I was looking for a cheater way of putting some oil back inside the case first.
I've tried a pipe wrench + hammer. No joy. It really is seized bad. I want to try and heat it up by running the truck around town and see if it helps loosen things a bit. But I was looking for a cheater way of putting some oil back inside the case first.
Don't drive it with out oil in the case- very bad for the gears and bearings. Use a oil pump hose to put the oil in from under the truck. I found one at the blue box store that screws onto the top of the gallon oil bottle... works great for filling the trans as well.
HTH,
Will
HTH,
Will
fyton2v
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I have a oil pump, but pump it in from where? I don't think I can get that breather cap off without removing the tranny hump. There's a plate on the the driver's side of the transfer case that looks like it'll come off pretty easily. And the bottom of that plate is not too far below the fill line where the fill plug sits. Perhaps I can get a good amount of oil with that plate off? Looking at the FSM, it doesn't look like it'd create problem taking it off. Just don't know if it's a bad idea.
You can remove the center mounting bolt, it goes through the case into the transmission. Remove it and add fluid.
You should be able to remove the vent plug with a wrench from below and insert the hose in the hole. You may need to remove the low range shift linkage to get better access to the vent plug. The plate on the drivers side is the pto cover and is easily removed. But there will not be enough oil inside if you fill to the bottom of the pto cover.
Tap it a few times with a hammer to try to shake it loose and then use a coal chisel to drive it to loosen. If that fails, alternate torch and ice till it will turn. Heat till the metal around starts to get hot and then ice till cold... As it expands and contracts it'll free up.
some big vise grips and a butane torch should get it off.
keep a fire extinguisher close by
keep a fire extinguisher close by
Or arc weld a 1/2" nut to it.
Don't forget you're below a gas tank, and also have a fire extinguisher within reach.
Don't forget you're below a gas tank, and also have a fire extinguisher within reach.
When I worked at an oil change shop in high school, this is exactly how the guys would get rounded off plugs out. Never saw one that they could not get out. Best of luck.
I had the same problem last week with the fill plug on the rear diff. I had to drill a 1/2" hole thru the center of the plug, then used a cold chisel & hammer on it (as advised here on MUD). The hole slightly weakened the structural integrity of the plug, allowing some slight flex. Bingo!
don't worry about the marshmallows just keep the fire extinguisher handy, I've been through the same thing and removed them successfully with heat, now I've learnt to always check the filler plug can be removed before draining all the oil, good luck mate you'll get it sorted ok
If heat and force don't work, weld a big nut on it and it'll spin right off with the appropriate sized wrench for the welded on nut.
Oh, and uh, next time use a 6-point socket
Oh, and uh, next time use a 6-point socket
you can grind the 6 point socket flat also to get "full" grip
in the future, make sure the fill plug is loose first before draining.
worst case is remove the PTO cover and fill that way, it'll be a little low, but you can drive it somewhere if you need assistance
in the future, make sure the fill plug is loose first before draining.
worst case is remove the PTO cover and fill that way, it'll be a little low, but you can drive it somewhere if you need assistance
X3 for welding a nut to the plug. After you weld it on remove the plug while it is still hot from welding. It should zip right out.
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