New to me FZJ80 help and intro (1 Viewer)

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Joined
May 26, 2016
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Location
Myrtle Beach, SC
Greetings,
I recently purchased a '93 FZJ80 with e-locks after hunting for a year and a half.

I finally today had a chance to start going through it see what all is wrong.
I was most concerned about the engine as it was clearly down a cylinder on the test drive. I comp tested it today and it was good 150 for 1-5 and 170 on 6. PO had just changed plugs and 6 had fuel deposits on it. Its getting spark but the new plug looked straight out the box clean. I'm thinking I have either a clogged or fail injector on #6. It doesn't change if I pull the plug wire on it.

The next issue is a substantial oil leak up front. With it running you can see the oil coming out from between the oil pump cover and timing cover. I saw in the fsm that you must pull the crank pulley to access the screws, it also looked like you had to pull the timing cover possibly as well. Is this the case? I'm debating on whether to just go ahead and f'it and get a new timing cover/pump, water pump and timing kit if I have to do all that. To do that It shows pulling the head off in the FSM. Is it necessary to pop the head, or can it be done with out?

Next up the front pas knuckle has been flushed by gear oil. The shaft seal has clearly failed. Its defiantly getting a full knuckle kit. However when the CDL is locked in low with the front diff unlocked I'm hearing some rather unnerving crunching and popping from what sounds like that side. I need to get someone else to drive so I can stick my head out and listen for sure. I'm not sure if its coming from there or the tcase VC. The CDL is also being very cantankerous about unlocking. Suggestions?

Rear dif is also not want to lock consistently, but both actuator motors are going to get pulled, cleaned, lubed and a new seal kit installed.

Thanks in advance for your input, I'm happy to finally have a Landy, I've wanted one since I was a kid. Gona be another project. My intention is to build it up overland capable and in 2-5 years take a month or more off from work and head west, hopefully hook up with some others out in Utah/Idaho Arizona area and overland.

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Welp... I just found a new twist in the whole engine thing... I went out to check if it had 1 idler or 2 and though to pull the oil fill cap and look in the head at the timing chain ... and guess what... I saw a nice long piece of chain guide plastic sitting loose in the timing chain area... This just go more expensive and more time consuming. From everything I've read so far since I have a hoist and stand my best course of action is to go a head and pull it at this point, correct?
 
It's a considerable amount of work to pull the head in place, nearly as much work as pulling the engine and trans. If you pull it all out, it's quite a bit nicer to work on it.

Yes, the crank pulley has to come off to replace the oil pump cover gasket. It's pretty serious removing the crank pulley and reinstalling as it's torqued to about 305 lb/ft.

If you're gonna go in there, of course replace the head gasket. It's likely your valve seals need replacement.

Feel free to check out my build thread or engine build thread. I'm right in the middle of it.

Congrats and Welcome!
 
Well, decisions decisions decisions....Quick cheapest refresh, full rebuild or F'it LS swap...
 
rebuild
 
Well, decisions decisions decisions....Quick cheapest refresh, full rebuild or F'it LS swap...
Full rebuild. Full. Full. Don't hold back, its a lot easier to do everything when its out.

DO NOT BUY YOUR NEW ENGINE MOUNTS FROM RAINFOREST/RIVER SITE
 

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