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new owner issues

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by mmedlin, Jun 10, 2003.

  1. mmedlin

    mmedlin

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    After having purchased my first cruiser (love it!) about two months ago (94 FZ80), I'm having two problems. Most annoying is the fan that blows air in the cabin is incredibly loud. Once you crank it up two speeds 3 or 4, it literally sounds like a jet engine is in the dash. It also doesn't seem to blow much harder between speeds 2 and 4. Any ideas? Secondly, over this past weekend the front passenger side window began to only go up intermittently. It goes down great but it acts like it's shorting out on the upside. What's the best way to troubleshoot this?
     
  2. upcruiser

    upcruiser

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    Not sure about the fan deal, but with the window, sounds like it might need to have the assembly lubed. I think it was B a long while back gave some pointers on how to do this. &nbsp:Do you speak Beonese though? ;) :D 8)
     
  3. Keep

    Keep

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    Does the window slow then stop or does it just not respond at all? I've had both problems on mine. My front windows, particularly in the cold, had real issues going up. Cleaning and lubricating the tracks helped that problem. One of my rear windows had a bad switch at the drivers door that worked intermittently. A quick way to test that would be to verifiy the window (assuming its not driver side) will go up and down with its own switch.
     
  4. Hltoppr

    Hltoppr SILVER Star

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    Welcome!

    As for the fan, mine is that way too. I just turn up the radio. :dunno:

    As for your window switch, this is a pretty easy fix (Just did this last week). There is probably some corrosion on the switch terminals. Pop the switch cover off the armrest, disconnect the switch leads at the connectors, and remove the switch.

    The window switch is two pieces. Mark the same side of both pieces so that you know which side is which when you put it back together. Take a couple small screwdrivers and pop the two pieces apart. Be careful to do this slowly, as there are two W shaped rocker contacts inside the switch that can come out. Once you've done this remove the W contacts, noting how they fit into the switch, to reveal the main contacts. I'm willing to bet there will be some corrosion on these. It'll look like black carbon or the like. Scrape the nasty stuff off of the main contacts with a knife or other implement of your choosing, so as the bright brass/copper color is once again apparent.

    Reassemble the switch and plug it back into the pigtails. Test up/down operation.

    Hope that works. If not, new switches are about $50 each, drop Cruiserdan here a note and I'm sure he can set you up with exactly what you need.

    -H-
     
  5. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Up,
    There was no prior Beonese lecture on lubricating windows. The electric windows are out of my knowledge sphere for now.

    I'll always be happy to give a lecture on reading and understanding Beonese. :G
    -B-
     
  6. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    -B-

     Wouldn't that be window "lifts"?................ ::)
     
  7. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Yes! That's correct. FYI, my 1958 XK150 DHC didn't have electric lifts for the windows so there was no mention in the manual. However, I have heard that vernacular used with current British automobiles.
    -B-
     
  8. TLCgrappler

    TLCgrappler

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    Not to hijack the thread, but on the topic of windows, my 96 has a chewed up rubber liner that the ds rear window fits up into, a result of it "sticking" to the window and getting pulled out of the track, and then getting out of line on the return trip.

    Anybody ever replaced that piece??? Costs?? Its a squared off upsidedown "u" shape and you'd think it could be pulled right out and a new one slipped in, but I wonder if you have to take the door apart to do it correctly.
     
  9. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    RUN, REAR DOOR GLASS, LH: 68152-60011 list $64.99

    I think you could snake it in there without pulling the glass, I haven't tried it myself.



    Dan :beer:
     
  10. Rogue

    Rogue

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    With some soapy water this is quite an easy thing to do. I have never performed it on the Cruiser, but I did it to both reardoors and the PS front of a 91 Honda Civic.

    All you gotta do is roll down the window, yank the stuff out, get the new one wet, and slide it in. Easy...with some slight manhandling. :G
     
  11. Seminole

    Seminole

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    ??? I had/have the same problem with mine on the ps rear. The rubber piece came loose from the run and glass and would allow the run to flop arond enough to pop off the motor arm. FSM has a brief section about it. The rubber piece was orignally attached to the window(w/adhesive) and according to FSM has an exact measurement(don't have it handy)from the edge of the glass to proper placement. I can't tell if the rubber piece was glued to the run though? Anybody know? You can manipulate the pieces without glass removal but I don't think you can get set properly without removing the glass. Any thoughts/corrections. This is on my list for this weekend. I'll try to remember to take notes and photos.