New F & 2F carbs (1 Viewer)

[cuencanolenny]

My carb will work. Couple mods you will need to make. Cut the primary shaft on my carb so it doesn't interfere with yout PVC tube. Gently bend your fuel line so it connects to the front. I do it all the time. Mount the air cleaner. You will need to use a stud to hold the carb down. I drill a hole in the top of the air cleaner and then use a stud. Your cable will fit my cable carb I sell for 315.

Marshall: The new motor is in, great improvement. I had a few details to attend to with regards to air cleaner and header to exhaust pipe and a hose from air cleaner to valve cover. All taken care of it was time to "address" the issue that was observed at the shop as well as the 50 miles of use so far. It requires full choke to start hot or cold. When warm it must be immediately pushed back in. And it has a stumble off idle. The mechanic said it was the accelerator pump. I'm not convinced but I found that the ignition dwell was not correct. I adjusted that, timing, idle speed. Once running it is just smooth as silk. Any suggestions?

 

[cuencanolenny]

Somehow I managed to "fix" the carburetor today. I needed to replace the mounting studs as I only had a few threads after needing to use the thicker isolator, so off came the carburetor. Since it works fine, other than the starting and off idle bog I focused only on the accelerator plunger circuit. I could see nothing wrong, no debris. I did squirt carb cleaner in the hole below the plunger as well as the feed port at the "weight." I applied some heavy oil to the plunger and rubbed it in well. I reassembled and while I only drove about five miles round trip it definitely starts better and pulls better with no off idle bog.

 

[Trollhole]

Very good. Maybe something got in it during shipping. They are flow tested at the factory and set there.

Yours has the cable linkages?

 

[cuencanolenny]

Yes Marshall, and while I thought your cable connection piece was top notch, the mechanic installed with a more conventional barrel in slot arrangement. I like your adaptor better and will probably retrofit that as it provides a second slack adjustment. Cold start this morning and run the wife up to the bus stop and it is much improved, I think the "issue" is resolved. Really happy with the performance of the carburetor and the new engine. Did those rebuild kits ever come in/get sent out? I see that Washington State farmers dumped a million dollars worth of apples onto the ground due to the port delays that I think your carburetors were subjected to as well.

 

[FJCrewsin]

Good Morning,

My son and I are working on a 76 fj40 that currently has a Pinto carburetor stuck on it. I have no air cleaner. Do you have a source for air cleaners that would fit your carb? I see stock ones will. Any others that could be obtained if I cant find a stock air cleaner?

Thanks!

Adam

 

[cuencanolenny]

I needed to use the thicker spacer under the carburetor, but it fit fine. I would think Cruiserparts.net should be able to fix you up with a complete air cleaner assembly, including the bracket that attaches to the cylinder head. There would of course be other options as there are a number of Land Cruiser junk yards listed on the internet.

 

[onemanarmy]

I need this piece (plunger) or at least the gasket for my Trollhole carb on my 83 FJ60. I'd like some other rebuild parts as well.

I purchased a rebuild kit for a 1883 FJ60 stock Aisin carb, but the rubber piece supplied was not the same profile and the OD was slightly too big.

Can anyone help me out?

 

[Trollhole]

PM me your address and I'll ship you out some parts.

 

[ginmtb]

So in finally getting around to installing my new carb! I've had it for awhile but now am starting the process of desmogging. I need to cap my fuel return line and tweak the hard line from my fuel pump to the carb. Hopefully those will go okay. I understand how to do those for the most part. I am a car newb so all of this is new to me.

However I'm struggling with the connection to the mechanical linkage. I have an F engine btw 1974. I see the little "knob" on the carb - I was able to connect the linkage to it, however it seems like the linkage is in a different position than it was when it was connected to the stock carb. It is much more "closed" basically. See photos:

I'm sure I've done something wrong as everything I've read in this thread is that it is pretty much plug and play. I had to tweak the mechanical linkage some to make it get to this point. Something doesn't seem right...

Any help is appreciated. Also, are all the carbs coming with the cable connector too? Mine has that little dongle hanging down which obviously I need to take off since I don't have the cable actuated setup.

Thanks!

 

[Trollhole]

Your missing the plate that mounts to the carb that holds the other piece of the throttle rod end.

Look at this pic and you will see.

Yes take the cable connector off.

 

[cuencanolenny]

Hey Marshall, what year is this green FJ40 picture you posted? I have the same straight "blade" on the firewall which inhibits putting a power brake booster on, but this master cylinder is dual reservoir as opposed to my single.

 

[ginmtb]

Your missing the plate that mounts to the carb that holds the other piece of the throttle rod end.

Look at this pic and you will see.

Yes take the cable connector off.

Oh that's what that piece is lol.

Thank you!

 

[Trollhole]

Hey Marshall, what year is this green FJ40 picture you posted? I have the same straight "blade" on the firewall which inhibits putting a power brake booster on, but this master cylinder is dual reservoir as opposed to my single.

I don't know. It's a 60's model for sure. I just copied it from the internet to show the bracket. Most likely that's a corvette master.

You're carb was a little dirty.

 

[ginmtb]

Your missing the plate that mounts to the carb that holds the other piece of the throttle rod end.

Look at this pic and you will see.

Yes take the cable connector off.

Okay success!

Of course I can't seem to figure out probably the easiest part - connecting the choke cable. I have the cable end in the stop, however I can't seem to figure out how the cable itself gets secured. I see the screw that has to be involved I just don't see how the cable routes there and is secured in place. I know...

 

[ginmtb]

Marshall please help a newb!!! Why can't I figure out how to connect the choke cable? I've taken the screw out is this where it goes? That screw bottoms out before any clamping takes place so I don't know... I have spent way too much time on trying to get this figured out. Thanks!

 

[cuencanolenny]

It is a little bit of a bugger, mostly because it is a bit crowded back there. Work from the right side over the fender. Rotate the arm so that you can insert the cable through the screw hole. Make sure you push enough cable through so that when you release the arm it is still sticking through. Then move to the left hand side and, making sure the choke knob is pushed in, the choke plate fully open, tighten the screw. What makes it so awkward is that the barrel wants to keep moving towards the carburetor while you try and get all your fingers working together. And don't forget to hold your tongue right. Do you need me to take a picture for you?

 

[ginmtb]

It is a little bit of a bugger, mostly because it is a bit crowded back there. Work from the right side over the fender. Rotate the arm so that you can insert the cable through the screw hole. Make sure you push enough cable through so that when you release the arm it is still sticking through. Then move to the left hand side and, making sure the choke knob is pushed in, the choke plate fully open, tighten the screw. What makes it so awkward is that the barrel wants to keep moving towards the carburetor while you try and get all your fingers working together. And don't forget to hold your tongue right. Do you need me to take a picture for you?

There's a screw hole? Is it in the "hat" shaped nut? I will have to look more closely. I clearly see the screw hole on my original but not on this carb. Perhaps the nut has a hole but is rotated so I can't see it?

Photo would be awesome thanks!!!

 

[cuencanolenny]

In your #1495 post you can see the U shaped piece next to the linkage. There should be a barrel with a screw in the end of it there. You rotate that U shaped piece so that you can feed the cable through the barrel. It is dark now but I will take a picture tomorrow morning and post it for you to see what I am talking about. It is really crowded back there.

 

[ginmtb]

In your #1495 post you can see the U shaped piece next to the linkage. There should be a barrel with a screw in the end of it there. You rotate that U shaped piece so that you can feed the cable through the barrel. It is dark now but I will take a picture tomorrow morning and post it for you to see what I am talking about. It is really crowded back there.

Thanks cuencanolenny! I took the barrel out and saw the little hole in it and it all made sense then. Rotated it enough to feed the cable through and I'm good to go!

Choke knob in:

Choke knob out:

 

[cuencanolenny]

I knew you could do it!