New Arb Fridge Freezer Setting: What do you set yours at? (2 Viewers)

[ForealBoreal]

I have my new fridge freezer coming in next week and I am curious on a few things with it.

I have been told the thermostat is a bit inaccurate.
How do you go about packing yours up and what do you set the temperature to?

 

[Clint79]

Any reason you went the Arb fridge over the Engel or other brands

 

[ForealBoreal]

Price mainly and I haven't really heard anything bad about it.
I have done a bunch of research on them in the past few months.

 

[Enigma]

I have my new fridge freezer coming in next week and I am curious on a few things with it.

I have been told the thermostat is a bit inaccurate.
How do you go about packing yours up and what do you set the temperature to?

I keep mine at -2 seems to work well for keeping food/beer cold.

 

[ForealBoreal]

what battery saving setting do you put it on and how long does it last before you can't start?

 

[roscoFJ73]

I have my new fridge freezer coming in next week and I am curious on a few things with it.

I have been told the thermostat is a bit inaccurate.
How do you go about packing yours up and what do you set the temperature to?

You might find this varies in how the fridge is wired. They can get up to 20% colder if they have a good strong power supply.
Those cig lighter type plugs are next to useless. In many vehicles that are getting old ,the cig lighter wont even run the fridge.
When the fridge runs it needs about 4 amps but when it starts up,it needs about 8 amps to get the compressor moving(with the exception of the Engal with the swing motor.)
Both my Landcruisers needed needed some extra wiring to the cig light to start the fridge.
Wasnt I pissed off when I bought my new fridge home and none of my 3 vehcles would start the fridge.

So back to your question.You may have to work it out for yourself

Loading the fridge up is best done with cold food placed into a cold fridge.Dont cram stuff in there.
If you have to put warm food or drinks in there,do it as you drive off and use the extra power from the alternator to cool the warm food down.
I use a mixture of resealable bags and square plastic containers to store food in. If I have room ,I leave empty containers in there so the fridge doesnt have to replace the cold air each time I open it.
I sometimes put a large plastic bottle of frozen water in the fridge when I pack food in there.Its like borrowing some energy from the house fridge.

 

[Enigma]

what battery saving setting do you put it on and how long does it last before you can't start?

Since I do not have an extra battery solely for accessories, I have my fridge set to "LO", which is supposed to leave enough juice for the truck to start and shut the fridge off when power gets that low.
I do have some power drain issues somewhere, so my mileage varies. For extended trips, I plug in my solar set up to keep things topped up, in good sun I can keep it going for a week.
I do plan on adding a 3rd battery in my rear cargo storage area one day, dedicated to accessories. I really hate having sleepless nights worrying about whether or not the rig will start in the morning.

 

[Enigma]

Good wiring and connections are extremely important. I want to change out the extra 12V cigarette plug I have for an Andersen Power Pole, or something similar. I believe a lot of my fridge issues are from that plug, as I have noticed just by wiggling and turning it in it's socket seems to make some difference at times.
ARB rates their fridges at a max 2.7 amps (edit: claimed rating, see post below)

47 litre model:

Current Draw: 0.87 amps/hour*
*Power consumption tested at 3°C cabinet temperature, 26°C-31°C ambient temperature range, test duration of 66 hours and supply voltage of 12V DC

And some reference material:

Fridge Power Draw - Expedition Portal

You might find this varies in how the fridge is wired. They can get up to 20% colder if they have a good strong power supply.
Those cig lighter type plugs are next to useless. In many vehicles that are getting old ,the cig lighter wont even run the fridge.
When the fridge runs it needs about 4 amps but when it starts up,it needs about 8 amps to get the compressor moving(with the exception of the Engal with the swing motor.)
Both my Landcruisers needed needed some extra wiring to the cig light to start the fridge.
Wasnt I pissed off when I bought my new fridge home and none of my 3 vehcles would start the fridge.

So back to your question.You may have to work it out for yourself

Loading the fridge up is best done with cold food placed into a cold fridge.Dont cram stuff in there.
If you have to put warm food or drinks in there,do it as you drive off and use the extra power from the alternator to cool the warm food down.
I use a mixture of resealable bags and square plastic containers to store food in. If I have room ,I leave empty containers in there so the fridge doesnt have to replace the cold air each time I open it.
I sometimes put a large plastic bottle of frozen water in the fridge when I pack food in there.Its like borrowing some energy from the house fridge.

 

[Enigma]

Manufacturers current draw ratings explained:

Which 12V Freezer is the best? The 4×4 Info-Tainment Channel (scroll down the page a bit)

And I just read Roscoe's post of the fridge shoot out excellent article. Not sure how I didn't see it before, perhaps time for glasses

 

[ForealBoreal]

I managed to get the free arb wiring harness. Right now i think I am just going to plug the thing into my factory aux outlet until I get the third battery tray sorted out. Hopefully I can get that done somewhat soon.

 

[ForealBoreal]

Since I do not have an extra battery solely for accessories, I have my fridge set to "LO", which is supposed to leave enough juice for the truck to start and shut the fridge off when power gets that low.
I do have some power drain issues somewhere, so my mileage varies. For extended trips, I plug in my solar set up to keep things topped up, in good sun I can keep it going for a week.
I do plan on adding a 3rd battery in my rear cargo storage area one day, dedicated to accessories. I really hate having sleepless nights worrying about whether or not the rig will start in the morning.

Here is another idea for you J.
Why don't you just convert your truck to a 12v starting system?
Sell your series parallel solenoid and buy the dodge starter motor to convert your truck. You would need to pick up glowplugs from rock auto for cheap which isn't a big deal.
Less batteries and have an overall simplistic system. If I had the choice my truck would be aus spec.

 

[Enigma]

I managed to get the free arb wiring harness.

Free harness? Please elaborate

Here is another idea for you J.
Why don't you just convert your truck to a 12v starting system?
Sell your series parallel solenoid and buy the dodge starter motor to convert your truck. You would need to pick up glowplugs from rock auto for cheap which isn't a big deal.
Less batteries and have an overall simplistic system. If I had the choice my truck would be aus spec.

That's not a bad idea. I have really no need for cold climate starting power. The Oz 1HDT's are 12v starting stock?

 

[ForealBoreal]

Free harness? Please elaborate
That's not a bad idea. I have really no need for cold climate starting power. The Oz 1HDT's are 12v starting stock?

ARB Fridge Freezer Wiring Loom
Here is an example of the wiring harness. I got mine for free with buying the fridge.

No I don't think they are but I think it wouldn't be a bad thing if you kept maintaining your truck. Put in an isolator so it will charge the second battery properly.

I have heard that sheldon and greg do this with their 1hd-t conversions. A fellow did a thread on replacement motors.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/70-series-tech/566807-my-fellow-americans-hzj75-pzj75-starter.html

I know its for the 75 series but they share the same style of starter.
The mines all run 12v and all of the 70 series in aus run 12v on the 1hz. I don't see it being a big deal honestly. Something to look into.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I set mine to -1c it keeps all my frozen food frozen and the drinks cold. If I go to -3 c I start popping cans as they freeze. I will usually load the frozen food on the bottom in 1/2 the tray then cans in the other 1/2 (pre cooled at home). As I drink the pop or beer I replace it with non cooled pop/beer and with in 45min its cold as the rest. Produce I leave in the small area above the compressor area as its a few deg warmer there (egg's too). I try and keep free air space in the fridge to a minimum to so its not spending energy to cool air (wasted energy). I do not over stuff the fridge though.

I have a 4ga wire run from the 2nd (deep cycle battery) to a Blue sea 6 gang fuse box. From there I have a 6ga wire run straight to a Powerlet 12V receptical. Standard Powerlet Socket - Powerlet Products

Then I took the ARB 12V plug off and put a Powerlet male plug in its place. Deluxe Plug - Powerlet Products

I have lots of issues with the West Marine 12V socket and ARB 12V coming lose or moving slightly on bumpy roads causing the fridge to flip into to battery cut. Since installing the Power let plug I have not had any issues, its a very very positive engagement now. Only thing I plan to change in the future is the harness plug to a 90* one like this. Right Angle Plug - Powerlet Products

I have the battery setting to Med, I have a deep cycle battery that its hooked to but before that used the same setting and had no issues starting after a night in the 60's.

 

[ForealBoreal]

I set mine to -1c it keeps all my frozen food frozen and the drinks cold. If I go to -3 c I start popping cans as they freeze. I will usually load the frozen food on the bottom in 1/2 the tray then cans in the other 1/2 (pre cooled at home). As I drink the pop or beer I replace it with non cooled pop/beer and with in 45min its cold as the rest. Produce I leave in the small area above the compressor area as its a few deg warmer there (egg's too). I try and keep free air space in the fridge to a minimum to so its not spending energy to cool air (wasted energy). I do not over stuff the fridge though.

I have a 4ga wire run from the 2nd (deep cycle battery) to a Blue sea 6 gang fuse box. From there I have a 6ga wire run straight to a Powerlet 12V receptical. Standard Powerlet Socket - Powerlet Products

Then I took the ARB 12V plug off and put a Powerlet male plug in its place. Deluxe Plug - Powerlet Products

I have lots of issues with the West Marine 12V socket and ARB 12V coming lose or moving slightly on bumpy roads causing the fridge to flip into to battery cut. Since installing the Power let plug I have not had any issues, its a very very positive engagement now. Only thing I plan to change in the future is the harness plug to a 90* one like this. Right Angle Plug - Powerlet Products

I have the battery setting to Med, I have a deep cycle battery that its hooked to but before that used the same setting and had no issues starting after a night in the 60's.

I have more than enough space with this unit from what I can see. I like that its low profile. The fridge wiring harness female plug fits the cord nice. Almost is a bit magnetic or something but I don't see how this will come out of place for logging road use.

 

[ontopofm]

Has anyone set their fridge at 20F to see how much power it draws? Mine has constantly been drawn ~4A when it run. It can deplete my group 31 battery overnight. I bought the ARB for its low power draw but have been experiencing otherwise. I wonder if I got a lemon.

 

[Ed B]

I have found that 29 degrees works best for me. I keep frozen items or things I want to keep the coldest, at the bottom. I have a dedicated battery for the Fridge and keep the battery cut off on the low setting.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Beer starts to slush at 29°

Just say'n

 

[Ed B]

Best to drink it right away then!

 

[gsdog2]

Its not in the manual but if you press the temp + and - buttons at the same time until the readout flashes in adjustment mode, you can calibrate what the actual inside temp is (using a thermometer) to what the digital readout says. It adjusts up and down in 2 degree increments.