Neutral Safety Switch and Starter Problems (1 Viewer)

[adalnay]

After a month of reading a gazillion threads on starter issues on my 95 LC, I finally was able to narrow down my problem to a corroded wire end (black with white stripe) at the neutral safety switch (NSS) connector located on the transmission housing. Keep in mind that I am not even considered a 1/4 of a when it comes to being a mechanic. Anyhow, the first pic shows the location of the NSS connector and black with white stripe wire in question. I have read several threads to check the black with red stripe and black with white stripe for corrosion. In my case the black with white stripe wire end is corroded to a point where there is no metal connector that would attach to the plastic connector as depicted on the second pic.

Which brings me to my question, how have others repaired the corroded wire? Should I just put another end on the wire and connect back to the plastic harness? I've read that some people have solder the wire but I'm not too sure how that would be done. Should I also replace the plastic wire harness? Does anybody have the part number? I think I'm over thinking the issue. It must be from the lack of driving my LC. Anyways, any suggestions would be appreciated

 

[96r50]

I'm guessing you've already read through this thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/233993-starter-neutral-safety-switch.html (I recognize the photos!), but did you follow the second link posted by Romer for this thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/172212-intermittant-starter.html? Post 36 in there has the part numbers for the two splices (82998-12480) and the plastic connector (90980-11332), posted by yours truly

To repair the harness, peel back the plastic loom, cut out the old wire at the same length as the replacement splice, solder/crimp them in place, use some good quality waterproof heat-shrink to seal the joint and reassemble the harness. I'd also recommend replacing the plastic connector body if the gasket inside it (the little ribbed orange thing in the second photo) is torn or mangled.

 

[adalnay]

Thanks for the reply 96r50. Props to corsair23 for the photos. I'll look at the thread you pointed out. I'm sure I've read it before.

By the way, is there a special way to remove the wires from the plastic connector. I want to inspect the black w/red stripe wire but it seems to be locked in somehow. The black w/white stripe came right out since the end corroded off.

 

[corsair23]

By the way, is there a special way to remove the wires from the plastic connector. I want to inspect the black w/red stripe wire but it seems to be locked in somehow. The black w/white stripe came right out since the end corroded off.

Read posts #54 & #55 of the thread Adam linked to above. At the bottom of post #54 I mention the process for getting the wires out of the connector and post #55 has a picture showing the locking tab in the unlocked/down position. It is hard to tell with the white goop on the connector in my photo but if you compare that picture with the picture Romer posted in post #21 you can see the center section of the connector is pulled down somewhat.

With the locking tab pulled down then you can get to the individual locking tabs/prongs on the individual connectors with a pick or small flat screwdriver and press those in while pushing or pulling the wire out. The picture in post #54 doesn't show the locking prongs on the connectors/wires as they are on the other side of the connector. I should have flipped one wire over when taking the picture

The biggest challenge is the limited amount of space to work in but IIRC Romer offered some good tips on what he did when splicing in the new sections of wire.

HTH and good luck!

 

[96r50]

You can also play with the connector and the two splices when you get them. The Electrical Wiring Diagram (EWD) for your truck will also have instructions in it.

 

[adalnay]

Thanks for the replies. I'm ordering the parts today. Hopefully I'll have running by this weekend.