Builds Scraps, My Slow 45/80 Build (1 Viewer)

[Tank5]

I have been collecting parts for this build for a little while and am just about ready to start working on it. Not a new idea to this forum but it will be a little different than some of the other builds of this type. My plan is to build an fj45 on an fzj80 chassis. I changed directions several times during the parts gathering phase of this project but have finally settled on a direction. I just need a few more things to fall into place to get started.

To start with I have purchased and gone through 4 different fj45 cabs and for different reasons sold 2 two of them before settling on the one I will build. I picked up a decent bobbed lwb bed for it that I am still back and forth on because I would prefer the short wheel base style bed but have not been able to find one.

I originally purchased a 93 fzj80 to use as a platform for the build. I started researching motor options and originally planned to use a 2uz but the wiring side of it I felt was above my skill level at this time and did not want to spend three years trying to figure it out. I started looking at other options.

Some friends of mine Charles and Ivan had a 93 1fz (carbureted version) with a manual h151 5 speed, with selectable hubs, arb lockers, and a 6 inch lift. I thought it would make a great drive train to put under my build no computers or excess wiring to deal with made it very appealing. They were willing to part with it and after a lot of work we made a deal. I have a picture of it below. The full armor package on it is for sale if anyone is interested.

The purpose of my build is for fun weekend driving and moderate trail driving/exploring. I am planning to run 35” tires and maybe eventually tailor it to an expedition type build.

So before I actually started wrenching on anything I thought I would share the plan to see what you all would point out that I may have missed or ideas I could use. I do not have a picture of the 45 yet but below is a picture of the donor drive train truck. It is waiting to get parted as soon as it gives up it’s protective shell.

This is going to be a slow build by the way.

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Edit: 12/30/16
I have decided to give the project a name, SCRAPS. Since I started this build, I have been piecing it together with parts from a lot of different vehicles. I have not bought hardly any of my parts as new which makes me feel like I am just waiting for someone else to sell their old scraps at a price that fits my budget. It is a patchwork of scraps from various series of Landcruisers and a Tundra so far. I am buying nice scraps by my standards but all the same, SCRAPS seems appropriate.

 

[Cruisersean]

Welcome to the 40/80 swap club! I'm interested on the build of this one

 

[Tapage]

you imported it ..

 

[Tank5]

Not me but one of the previous owners imported it.

 

[cruisedeisel]

That is one ugly ass roll cage. But the body looks decent, at least its doing its job.

 

[Tank5]

The cage is not my style but as you said it worked. I am looking forward to getting rid of the cage and parting the rest so I can get my project started.

 

[Tank5]

So I have changed my mind again or rather have circled back to my original plan. I am going to put the carburated 1fz in the shed and try to install a 2uzfe. I do not have the engine yet but I came across a decent deal on a Supercharger for it. So I am committed and on the hunt for a decent lower mileage 2uz.

One of the reasons for the change was that I read that the H151F 5 speed have will bolt up to the 2uz. So I can still have a 5 speed but do not have to worry about the wiring for the transmission now. So If I can just make the 2uz run I think I am good. I am going to try anyway.

I have been doing a lot of reading to figure out what I am getting into. What I think I know so far is that I want an early 2uz pre VVTI, sounds like they all have the same connecting rods so I am not going to worry about that. Does anyone know for sure weather there is a big difference between the US and JD built 2uz? Just trying to figure out weather I should buy a tundra motor or a landcruiser motor.

If anyone has an experience with a similar set up please share.

 

[Tank5]

The price was good so picked up a 2wd 2002 Tundra with a 2uzfe. I have decided to use the 2uzfe engine from it to make sure I can make it all work. I have already pulled the harness, ecu, engine, and a number of other parts that I though might come in handy to make it work. I am looking for an oil pan and oil pick up from a landcruiser model 2uzfe. If anyone knows where I can get one please let me know.

Next I plan to pull the h151f and t-case from the donor 80 and see if it will bolt up to the 2uzfe.

 

[Tank5]

I have made some progress and learned a lot. I sold the tundra 2uz and replaced it with a 2000 LC100 series 2uz. It had less miles, the correct oil pan, and came with headers which was nice since I would have been looking for a set when I install the supercharger.

I pulled the h151f and hf1a combo out of the 80 series and mounted it to the 2uz with a new two part bell housing. I still need to purchase all of the clutch guts and a new input shaft because the current shaft is not long enough. I bolted it together so I could start fitting it in the chassis. I had cut the chassis motor mounts off of the Tundra before I got rid of it and was able to use them with the motor mounts from the Tundra, and motor brackets from the 100 series 2uz to mount the engine on the 80 chassis. I was able to use the stock location and cross member for the transmission. The 2uz fits nicely. I am a little concerned about the lack of space between the hood and supercharger, I think it is going to be close but I will deal with it when I get to it.

I have started working on the tub placement with the engine in place. I test fit it the tub before I finalized the motor mounts to make sure it would work. I am just fine tuning it now before I place the body mounts. I am trying to use a 40 series cross member to mount the bib to and i think it might be a little more work then just building a cross member that fit the space need. I like the original look though so I am willing to give it a try. Everyone likes pictures so I have added some of the project

 

[TXFJ40]

Great start!

 

[78fj40mg]

Keep up the work!

 

[White Stripe]

I have made some progress and learned a lot. I sold the tundra 2uz and replaced it with a 2000 LC100 series 2uz. It had less miles, the correct oil pan, and came with headers which was nice since I would have been looking for a set when I install the supercharger.

I pulled the h151f and hf1a combo out of the 80 series and mounted it to the 2uz with a new two part bell housing. I still need to purchase all of the clutch guts and a new input shaft because the current shaft is not long enough. I bolted it together so I could start fitting it in the chassis. I had cut the chassis motor mounts off of the Tundra before I got rid of it and was able to use them with the motor mounts from the Tundra, and motor brackets from the 100 series 2uz to mount the engine on the 80 chassis. I was able to use the stock location and cross member for the transmission. The 2uz fits nicely. I am a little concerned about the lack of space between the hood and supercharger, I think it is going to be close but I will deal with it when I get to it.

I have started working on the tub placement with the engine in place. I test fit it the tub before I finalized the motor mounts to make sure it would work. I am just fine tuning it now before I place the body mounts. I am trying to use a 40 series cross member to mount the bib to and i think it might be a little more work then just building a cross member that fit the space need. I like the original look though so I am willing to give it a try. Everyone likes pictures so I have added some of the project

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It could be because your photo is at an angle, but it looks like your front axle sits too far back. If that's the case, when u bolt the fenders on it will be very noticeable. Redline's 4 door 40 on the 80 chassis have the front axle too far back and it looks funny. I would have just used the stock 45 chassis personally and just swapped the axles and suspension from the 80. It seems like a ton of work from other threads I've read through to squeeze the whole 80 frame in a 40 series body. Personally I think the front axle looks best 1 or 2 inches forward of the stock position. Going back from stock looks like it was in a wreck and never repaired right.

 

[Mieser]

It could be because your photo is at an angle, but it looks like your front axle sits too far back. If that's the case, when u bolt the fenders on it will be very noticeable. Redline's 4 door 40 on the 80 chassis have the front axle too far back and it looks funny. I would have just used the stock 45 chassis personally and just swapped the axles and suspension from the 80. It seems like a ton of work from other threads I've read through to squeeze the whole 80 frame in a 40 series body. Personally I think the front axle looks best 1 or 2 inches forward of the stock position. Going back from stock looks like it was in a wreck and never repaired right.

On mine, I ended up sticking the face of the 40 grill as close to the 80-series steering box as possible. That gave me enough room for a 40" tire to go lock to lock at full metal bump.

 

[Tank5]

Thanks for the supportive comments.

It could be because your photo is at an angle, but it looks like your front axle sits too far back. If that's the case, when u bolt the fenders on it will be very noticeable. Redline's 4 door 40 on the 80 chassis have the front axle too far back and it looks funny. I would have just used the stock 45 chassis personally and just swapped the axles and suspension from the 80. It seems like a ton of work from other threads I've read through to squeeze the whole 80 frame in a 40 series body. Personally I think the front axle looks best 1 or 2 inches forward of the stock position. Going back from stock looks like it was in a wreck and never repaired right.

In the picture the way it was mocked up I believe the axle was about 1 inch to the rear of the center of the apron. That was the first go at seeing where the body would set. I am planning to at least have the front axle centered or slightly forward in the wheel well. I will have to see how far that will be after I determine the best placement for the cab.

I chose to use a fj80 chassis for my build for a number of reasons but the first was because I didn't have a 45 chassis to start with. I have previously owned 40 series and 80 series landcruisers and I like the way the 80 series handled both on and off road. I like the factory suspension on the 80 series and the full boxed frame. The stock 80 is already very capable and the availability of after market parts is a plus. The 80 series chassis was also a lot more affordable and easier to find. Knowing my own skill set I feel like it is easier for me to fit the 45 body on the 80 frame rather than trying to transfer the 80 suspension to a narrower frame. I do wish I could keep the stock width look but that doesn't seem possible so I am planning to widen the front fenders and add aqualu fender flares to the rear.

On mine, I ended up sticking the face of the 40 grill as close to the 80-series steering box as possible. That gave me enough room for a 40" tire to go lock to lock at full metal bump.

The bib as pictured is around 3-4 inches forward of the steering box so I still have some room to move it but I am trying to keep enough room for the fan and radiator in front of the motor. I am looking to use a 40 series cross member in front to support the bib and try to give it a little more of the stock look.


I am sidetracked right now trying to get a new axle under my expo camper so I may not get back to it for a few weeks.

 

[Mieser]

The bib as pictured is around 3-4 inches forward of the steering box so I still have some room to move it but I am trying to keep enough room for the fan and radiator in front of the motor. I am looking to use a 40 series cross member in front to support the bib and try to give it a little more of the stock look.

I just put the engine where it needed to go. I didn't have any stock toyota stuff for that. Did you use the stock transfer case position?

 

[Tank5]

I just put the engine where it needed to go. I didn't have any stock toyota stuff for that. Did you use the stock transfer case position?

That "stock transmission/t-case cross member" is what I am using as my starting point as well. I just put the motor in and have been trying to fit everything else around it, so far it seems like it will all work pretty nicely. I found that the H151f is about 4" inches shorter than stock auto transmission and the rear output on the hf1a t-case is a little shorter than the hf2a t-case. The shorter transmission pulled the motor back more, not that it creates any issues. The 2uz leaves a lot of room to play with compared to the 1fz I started with.

 

[Tank5]

I have not made a lot of progress but I did tac on the tub mounts. I repurposed some fj40 mounts. The front and rear mounts sit over the control arm mounts so I had to notch the front mounts to fit the contour of the control arm bracket. The rear mounts I cut and formed to fit the contour of the control arm bracket also.

 

[Tank5]

I set the tub back on the new mounts and have started trying to figure out where the bib cross member will sit. I started working through it and realized the supercharger sits higher than the stock intake, so I decided I should test fit the supercharger to figure out if there was going to be any clearance issues with the hood.

The bullet supercharger was made to work with the drive by wire throttle body but I am planning to use a cable operated throttle body. I had to have an adapter made that would allow the throttle body to mount at an angle. This added some additional height to the SC setup and put the throttle body really close to the hood. I just installed the SC on the engine tonight and have not had a chance to put a hood on to see if it clears. The nose cone pulley might not clear either as the hood slopes down. I do not want to raise the tub any higher. I could lower the motor more but it would make servicing the alternator tougher. My hood is tough to get to I will not get a chance to get to it until Sunday maybe.

Anyone see anymore issues I might have missed?

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[Tank5]

I set the hood on it tonight and found the SC does not touch but it is very close. I would feel better with a little more clearance. I am think my best option will be to lower the motor an inch or so as long as I don't run into any clearance issues underneath. It is cold in the garage tonight so I will likely wait for a warm weather window before I get to it.

 

[Bripars40]

You could change the location of your hood drop down support and that might give you another inch or so.