My Saginaw Power Steering Swap (1 Viewer)

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Me too! Just need a damn welder!
 
great thread! i also wish this was around when i was doing mine. personally i love my 3 turn box though...i was advised against it by several people but decided that hey, it was free and i really didnt have the $$ to buy a new/different box so...i put it on and loved it. i find it drives fine and is not twitchy even on the highway with my 35's. anyways, each to its own i guess. great thread regardless
 
Hi All:

"JohnSmith," excellent thread! :beer:

When the junkyard parts I used in my Saginaw PS swap several years ago (2002 or so ) fail, now I know which thread to go to for the replacement part numbers!

Regards,

Alan
 
good wreite-up, especially since you took the time to post all the part #s and applications.

couple of things i'd like to add:

1) the ps box spacers are 1/4" and 3/4" poser and myself along with other vendors on here sell the box mounting plate kits.
2) yes, i did buy the ps pump mounting kit design from bill dorry and i have them in stock. they're now laser-cut and formed and a little cheaper
3) i'm not a big fan of the tube-and-fin style cooler you used. the hot ps fluid ( or atf depending on application since these commonly get used as trans coolers as well ) rushes thru the cooler too fast and barely has time to cool down. the twisted tube style low pressure drop coolers are a lot more efficient and they're about the same price. here's a link to one that'll do a much better job:
Derale 13501 - Derale 8000 Series Fin and Plate Transmission Coolers
they're sometimes referred to as fin-and-plate coolers as well

aside from that, i'm also a big fan of the sag style ps conversions. on stockers the minitruck ps conversion works well, but anything beyond that really needs the power of the sag style conversion. simpler system as well, and less chance for interferrance between tire and relay rod as well as parts failure.


nice work!!!!

georg valley hybrids
 
i was wondering.. with your set up have you completely eliminated any kind of steering stabilizer shock? i don't see one.

GREAT writeup!
 
If everything is tight and not worn, you should not need a steering stabilizer. I have not run one for the last couple of years since I did the SOA and Marlin hi-steer (already had sag steering and rebuilt the knuckles). Never had any issues with vibs or death wobble.
 
steering stabilizers ae band-aids.........
 
steering stabilizers ae band-aids.........

:rolleyes:well it's interesting that all 40's came from the factory with a fresh band-aide..

i asked because i just had my rig converted to saginaw power steering.. and the guy who did it adapted a steering stabilizer into the mix in a unique way i haven't seen before.. i was wondering how others have done this... or IF others even bother to put one in.. i had the knuckles rebuilt as well.. and everything is fresh and tight.. i'm sure the guy didn't put this in to "mask" anything.. he's a very experienced and knowledgable landcruiser mechanic.

sorry for the hijack.. but if anyones interested i can post a pic.
 
Sorry if this is a stupid question, but in all my readings about this conversion, I always hear that the relay arm from the pitman arm to the passanger side wheel is the big issue.

In reading you had the Heep pitman bored out, did that allow you to use the stock relay arm? If not can you let us know what you are running for that link?

Oh, awesome post ... soon to be in FAQ.... I too thank you from the bottom of my FJ heart for your parts list. I have my sag box installed, but have been looking for the right u-joints and wondering which one to buy -- now I have a shopping list.
 
Sorry if this is a stupid question, but in all my readings about this conversion, I always hear that the relay arm from the pitman arm to the passanger side wheel is the big issue.

In reading you had the Heep pitman bored out, did that allow you to use the stock relay arm? If not can you let us know what you are running for that link?

What do you mean a big issue? Downey and Advance Adapters both sell the correct pitman arm, relay rod and end for the relay rod to the pitman arm, so I fail to see what the big issue is.



... soon to be in FAQ....

Was in there yesterday.
 
Do you recall the OD of the crossmember sleeve? I bought a 3 1/4" holesaw and cut the hole and the darn thing wandered around so much I ended up with about a 3 3/8" hole. I picked up some 3" exhaust tubing hoping it would work for the sleeve but the hole is just too big.
 
okay, please help a 'tard out... I'm not fluent in steeringese, so I'm sure I won't get the nomenclatures correct, but here goes:

It looks like there's one connecting rod from the saginaw box to the passenger side knuckle (pitman arm??), then from the rear side of the passenger knuckle back over to the driver side knuckle (tie rod??). The steering arms attached to your knuckles don't look like mine, so I'm assuming you converted those when you did your mini truck setup.

Could you please take some pictures showing this portion of your conversion and perhaps list what you have for that portion of the conversion?

Thanks for the whole write up; it gives me hope that if I study long and hard enough I can do it too!
 
Search 4x4 labs, tons of pictures out there.
 
Thanks for the write-up John. I'm in the process of doing mine now.

You are correct. Napa now lists part number NSP88277080 for the 76 Jeep J20 application. I picked mine up yesterday. Took 2 weeks to get here. Close to the same price you listed ($151 + $55.60 Core) plus a $27 shipping charge. While mine has 4 mounting points, it is a 3-1/4 turn box. Guess I'll try it out. Mine will be more of a trail rig anyway.

Do you think my stock PS Pump will be to weak for a saginaw box? If so, I may go the route you did.

EWheeler
My crossmember sleeve is 3-3/16" and I got mine from the same place. So, the 3-1/4" holesaw will be just right.

Thanks again John!
 
EWheeler
My crossmember sleeve is 3-3/16" and I got mine from the same place. So, the 3-1/4" holesaw will be just right.

Thanks again John!

Yep, I ended up buying the crossmember sleeve from Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters and it fit perfectly into the 3 1/4" holesaw hole. It always seems when I try to be a cheap ass and figure things out on my own, I end up spending twice as much :doh:
 
Bump.

I now have two wheeling trips on this system and thought I would update this thread.

Wow!

That was my first reaction to the Saginaw setup on my first wheeling trip. I just got back from the CMCC and my reaction has not changed. I had no idea the change from the Toyota system to Saginaw would be so profound. As stated earlier, I have a Lockrite in my front axle and when wheeling with the Toyota system in rocks it most often felt like manual steering. On normal trails I would often have to steer with two hands to make sure the wheel would not get ripped from my grasp like wheeling with manual steering when hitting obstacles. When a tire would bind against a rock there was no turning the wheel.

With the Saginaw system I drive can drive with one hand on the wheel and it steers as if the locker is not even there. Serious. In rocks or going down the trail you can turn the wheel with your palm like you were on pavement. It has that much more power. I am sold!
 
John,

Thanks for the write up. Just finished mine. Liked the idea of grinding a DD into the steering column.
 
John,

Nice write up and thanks for the in-depth part number listings.

For those looking for a 4-1/4 turn box, I ordered the Cardone Part#27-6529 from Advance and it came as a 4-bolt, 3-1/4 turn. I took it back and told them I would roll the dice again on a 27-6529 and see what I got. I also told them to order me a Cardone Part#27-6537 (based on another thread I read). The 27-6537 happen to be a 4-bolt, 4-1/4 turn with the 5691676 casting number. Not sure if this part number increases the odds of getting a 4-1/4 turn, or if it was pure luck, but thought I would mention my experience.
 
what about us SBC guys? any brackets, pumps, steering columns you recommend?
 

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