My observation for doing quick phh (1 Viewer)

[ajax1]

So I changed out few these now and just thought I'd share my experiences doing so. I was draining the block and rad so did it for s*** and giggles.
1. Drain block and rad
2. I then pulled fhh off the phh tube
3. Pulled top tube bolt next
4. I have the 2 bolt in at the middle of the tube still, took 12mm gear wrench coming from underneath thru wheel well and loosened but left in.
5. Used a good size hook pick for the cotter pin clamp.
Then razor blade off old hose
6. Rotate pipe to the side insert new hose to the block, rotate pipe back to position and got hose somewhat started. I spit on those hoses to make them slide easier. Once hose is close l pushed the pipe putting the hose on.
7. Tighten up some clamps add coolant
Took me a hr for whole job and just left the 2 bolt loose in the head and tightened up the top bolt .

 

[greentruck]

It's been awhile, but sounds very similar to how I remember doing mine. People hate on the pipe, even pitch it, but I found working with it actually turned out well. It wasn't the easiest, but far from the worst project on the truck.

 

[GreyBeret]

Completed PHH replacement yesterday (started day before). Reviewed all the posts I could find on it. Probably overthought it. Had an issue because I couldn't get any tool whatsoever on the middle bolt holding the tube. After trip to Sears to buy a set of flexhead gear wrenches, recommended as the solution by one post, still couldn't get a tool on it. Worked on this line of inquiry for hours, convinced that the NEXT thing I tried was going to enable me to loosen that second bolt.
Some entries talked about taking out the middle bolt, some about leaving it out. Since I couldn't get a wrench on it, I cut the mounting tab with a hacksaw blade (over the course of about 45 minutes). Was then able to mobilize the tube, get the bloody PHH on in short order, then reinstall the top bolt to hold the tube. Seems rock solid. Then I could get on with the job of replacing the remaining hoses, which took most of an hour and a half.
Replaced main hoses and the PHH with high pressure silicone hoses.
Lessons learned:
1) There are several easy ways to change the PHH. Nobody knows what they are.
2) There is a special place in hell for the design team of the 1FZ plumbing system. I quickly ran out of swear words, so had to start making up new ones.
3) It will be easier next time (hopefully the silicone PHH will oulast the rest of the vehicle).

 

[120mm]

"Nobody knows what the easy ways to change the PHH are?"

Your research methods suck.

1. Pull driver's side wheel.
2. Remove tranny dipstick
3. Remove plug from knock sensor
4. Cut the PHH in two
5. Cut off the hose to the heater valve
6. Undo the top bolt
7. Twist the rigid line until the bottom tab breaks off
8. Remove the rigid line
9. Remove the remnants of the hose
10. Reinstall new hose to the rigid line
11. Put everthing back

The PHH is one of the easiest jobs on a Series 80, provided the mechanic doesn't overthink it.

 

[diamondsbuy]

I took out trans stick bolts out so stick would move out of my way...and here is the key point... using a flex head ratchet(one that moves increments to bend back or foward)and a 12mm socket made short work of removing the upper and lower bolts,both from the top of motor ! got a 6 by 14 inch cardboard,folded it in a "u shape"tucked in under the PHH,cut the phh, Put a clean bucket in the wheelwell under the cardboard to catch the coolant.(something about step six and a cold one I remember from other posts),Remove hardpipe from the top,replace phh and reassemble. Not to bad, Thank you to all of you fellow mudders for your help and guidance in keeping these on the road and saving us some money in the mix of it !! A Sincere THANK YOU ! If fixing the mpg was only so easy..lol..

 

[ewillis]

"Nobody knows what the easy ways to change the PHH are?"

Your research methods suck.

1. Pull driver's side wheel.
2. Remove tranny dipstick
3. Remove plug from knock sensor
4. Cut the PHH in two
5. Cut off the hose to the heater valve
6. Undo the top bolt
7. Twist the rigid line until the bottom tab breaks off
8. Remove the rigid line
9. Remove the remnants of the hose
10. Reinstall new hose to the rigid line
11. Put everthing back

The PHH is one of the easiest jobs on a Series 80, provided the mechanic doesn't overthink it.

Not trying to open but I have yet to complete this project and your method seems appropriate. I'm leaning towards OEM PHH, but could be swayed towards Gates or silicone. What did you use with this method?

 

[120mm]

Not trying to open but I have yet to complete this project and your method seems appropriate. I'm leaning towards OEM PHH, but could be swayed towards Gates or silicone. What did you use with this method?

I bought a silicone "kit" because I was afraid of the job. Knowing what I know now, I would've went OEM or Gates.

Then, I would inspect it every time you have the driver's wheel off and change it in 50,000 miles or so, just in case.

Too easy.

 

[ajax1]

This is really not a hard job, it took me literally a hr and most that was draining Fluid and taking off the wheel and then refilling. I listed out the way I did it which really doesn't get much simpler other then you can break the tab or loosen the bolt like I did, I do not pull tranny dip stick or any sensors, either way you do it though is not tough job

 

[bmw635]

Just remove the driver wheel to get both hand there to do the PHH. I used regular heater hose since it's easy to get to.

 

[slow95z]

Bypass the metal line imo. I have it out on 3 of my trucks, really no need for it.

 

[120mm]

Bypass the metal line imo. I have it out on 3 of my trucks, really no need for it.

Except it is more space efficient and it takes stress off the heater valve. The hard tube is better than the bypass.

 

[120mm]

This is really not a hard job, it took me literally a hr and most that was draining Fluid and taking off the wheel and then refilling. I listed out the way I did it which really doesn't get much simpler other then you can break the tab or loosen the bolt like I did, I do not pull tranny dip stick or any sensors, either way you do it though is not tough job

My entire reason for pulling the knock sensor line is that just about half the people on this board break the knock sensor when they do the PHH.

If I cared to take the time, I could retrieve all the threads of people who have done so.

Do yourself a favor; pull the knock sensor line. It reduces your chances of having to buy a new one.

 

[diamondsbuy]

I used gates green stripe, It was all the reading on the forum that made me do it. Mine has 222k and it was still original ! cotter clamp and all. Ps they only sell gates 5/8 id hose by the foot.....told the counter guy I only needed 3 inches,,,,,so he just gave it to me...sure is nice sometimes...try it. I 2nd the knock sensor...be careful !

 

[msapers]

If you really want a challenge, try doing it at night, on the side of the freeway in the rain. Ask me how I know.

 

[mypancreasbroke]

I bought a phh kit 2yrs ago with intent to get it done before any issues popped up. Well, kept putting it off, and today after running in to grab a drink at a gas station, returned to my truck to a nice little stream of coolant running under it... Luckily still had coolant in the rad and was less than two miles from home, but looks like I'll finally get to find out for myself the difficulty level of this job. Thanks to all you guys who have posted your method and experience, I look forward to hopefully knocking this out quick sometime soon.

 

[ewillis]

Whelp...I'm in there. Just triple checking that this IS the infamous PHH before I start cutting crap. This is actually the first time I have taken the fender skirts off to inspect.

What's the best way to get the clamps off and are you guys just cutting the hose in the center with a pocket knife or what?

 

[ajax1]

For the spring clamp long needle nose pilers, and for the one with a pin either grab the pin with good strong pick hook the eye and twist or use some snipes, then just razor blade the hose instead trying to pull it off

 

[DRACO 911]

Just ordered Wit's End's kit will be doing this and snaking out the EGR pipe, damn CEL came on again.

 

[jaymar]

Except it is more space efficient and it takes stress off the heater valve. The hard tube is better than the bypass.

Cut to 52" and route around MC, touching DS wall. It will hit the HCV horizontally. Or put a 1" pipe or hose hangar on the firewall like @woodsman 44 -- 2 holes already there.

 

[DRACO 911]

Well, what a freakin NIGHTMARE.

Definitely drain 1 gallon of Radiator Fluid or you will lose 1 gallon trying to fit that PHH on.

I used my long pivot ratchet with "T" to get to that ridiculous middle 12MM bolt. Once Loosened I left it there and disconnect upper angled hose from the Heater Valve. Loosen the mounts around it to help give it more play.

Went to the bottom and removed the screw clamp and OEM spring clamp.

Started to cut the hose on outer end but lucky it was replaced once before so it slipped out. THEN the GUSHER, Split Rad Fluid right into my waiting pans .

Tried to be cheap and swap asap, NOT. Too Darn Slippery. Once she stopped dripping. I managed to tweak the pipe back and slipped engine side on first then the pipe after tweaking it back to original position.

I have to say the Wits End Clamps are really nice and will not harm the New Gates GREEN Lined Hose.

Buttoned everything up and re-filled the Rad Fluid with Heater on at Maximum.

JOB DONE! Thanks to all Contributors

Issue I had was once you move the pipe out, you must move it back in position to fit the hose without bulging out the side. Oh yeah, that middle 12MM bolt was an extreme PITA.