My ARB Bumper "DRL" Modification (1 Viewer)

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Could you wire them like the Audi to function as drl and a signal light???
 
Could you wire them like the Audi to function as drl and a signal light???

I bet you could, but it would take some researching and figuring out or special module or something. I'm no electrician but I would assume it would be matter of reversing the polarity on the turn signal feed (somehow) so that the DRL gets the "blinking" feed from the negative (ground) side or something. :dunno Would be a good question! :)
 
Edit: The Phillips lights default to the high output and there is another wire that you are instructed to splice into one of the parking lights. When this wire gets power it dims the DRLs. Before I read my instructions and actually wired my lights I thought the parking input made the DRLs brighter. I didn't use the parking input and keep them full bright night and day.
 
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i'm looking at tackling this project. I have the lights sitting here on the bench.

Hate to ask this question and sound dumb, but what wiring are you guys wiring these into? I would like them to turn on when i switch the running lights on.
 
2nd that on the how to wire part

i'm looking at tackling this project. I have the lights sitting here on the bench.

Hate to ask this question and sound dumb, but what wiring are you guys wiring these into? I would like them to turn on when i switch the running lights on.

I just want mine to burn while ignition is on day/night. Any help is appreciated.
 
Me too... that' what i was trying to say.

I want to switch the running lights on and they come on, then stay on with the headlights, but not be on without switching on the lights..... clear as mud. haha
 
They only draw one amp when they are on full bright. You could probably tie them in with the running lights without an issue.
The third (orange IIRC) wire will dim them if it is tied to 12V supply. Floating or grounded will be full brightness of the DRLs.
There is no way I can see where they could be wired to be secondary turn signals. Both DRLs are driven by one module. There may be a hack there somewhere, but I didn't try to do it.
You should probably wire them up so they auto-dim or you can shut them off with a switch. Unless you like cops. They are damn bright at night. Especially if you're right behind someone.
Here's my thread where I put them in the grille:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/794430-blkprj-drls-grille.html
I wired them directly to the engine bay fuse box feed (big bolt in center) and used one of the headlight fuses with an adapter to drive the dimming feature.
 
OK, so it sounds like my best option will be to wire them up to a switch in the cab so i can turn them off and on when i want.
 
OK, so it sounds like my best option will be to wire them up to a switch in the cab so i can turn them off and on when i want.

Yep, and cap the orange wire and tie it back.

A nice feature you will probably like is that if you forget to turn them off, they will go off automatically. And turn on when you start the truck. It's magic! :grinpimp:

Beware, the black box does get pretty warm. The lights themselves stay very nice and cool.
 
Great! Thanks for the advice
 
Just curious WildYoats, any plans to make a bracket for the 4bulb version for those of us not keen on cutting up the bumper? Would they fit?
 
Just curious WildYoats, any plans to make a bracket for the 4bulb version for those of us not keen on cutting up the bumper? Would they fit?

Not at this time, no. Sorry. I felt the 4-unit models were a bit too small so I designed the brackets for the 8 unit leds.

Finished mine - Took a bit ore time to complete than expected.

Lookin great, Bolttripper! :cheers:
 
Agree that the 8 unit lights fill the space nicely -

While I appreciate the aesthetics of having the bolts placed mid-line with the bracket, moving them outboard just a bit might give us a bit more room to manipulate the drill bit to get things on metal.

Granted these things would stay in tight with just the two larger bolts , but having the rest make it look great... Just a bit unnerving even when you cut on the small side and still have to decide where you will get good drilling surface.

I would also like to see the mounting holes for the LED on the rear of the bracket a few sizes larger. Mine did not fit the LED's and I had to drill them out. Unfortunately I was not thinking and after drilling one size, lifted the bracket off the rag and got shavings under it. Drilled again only to find I scratched the power-coat and had to repaint.

No issue at all and a stupid mistake on my part.

I think this is one of the best looking mods you can do... Love them!



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Did you install the Phillips mounting bracket in the housing first? I had no problem with the rear mounting holes. I had to go through my hardware scratch bin to get a couple small bolts/nuts/washers but didn't have to drill out anything to mounting the Phillips bracket in the unit. Then the lights just snapped right in.
 
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Agree that the 8 unit lights fill the space nicely -

While I appreciate the aesthetics of having the bolts placed mid-line with the bracket, moving them outboard just a bit might give us a bit more room to manipulate the drill bit to get things on metal.

Granted these things would stay in tight with just the two larger bolts , but having the rest make it look great... Just a bit unnerving even when you cut on the small side and still have to decide where you will get good drilling surface.

I would also like to see the mounting holes for the LED on the rear of the bracket a few sizes larger. Mine did not fit the LED's and I had to drill them out. Unfortunately I was not thinking and after drilling one size, lifted the bracket off the rag and got shavings under it. Drilled again only to find I scratched the power-coat and had to repaint.

No issue at all and a stupid mistake on my part.

I think this is one of the best looking mods you can do... Love them!

I appreciate the feedback. I hear ya on the smaller bolts and I played around with the appearance of it all when I was making them. They just didn't look right without being centered in the middle of the housings. I even toyed with the idea of using "faux" smaller heads for the look and just rely on the two larger ones and I just thought it was getting too complicated way.

Wearsabrowncoat is right...while the light is a tad tight to mount to the two holes (someone noted this a few pages back too), they do fit without the bracket that you get with the lights. I went back and looked at my specific design and instructions I gave the laser cutter and he did indeed cut it slightly off of my plan (just about an 1/8 of an inch). It was marginal though.

Glad you like them!

Did you install the Phillips mounting bracket in the housing first? I had no problem with the rear mounting holes. I had to go through my hardware scratch been to get a couple small bolts/nuts/washers but didn't have to drill out anything to mounting the Phillips bracket in the unit. Then the lights just snapped right in.
 
I did not use the Phillips brackets. Just got the proper screws at the Home Depot, but they were just a tad off. I added an extra washer to it after drilling it out and it worked just fine.

Agree that centered looks best. Again just some feedback and I highly recommend getting the brackets and doing this mod.

Thanks for taking the time to bring something like this to market!

John
 
I have 2 issues with the Philips LED's. My battery keeps draining when I don't drive it for a while. When I plug my battery tender in it turns the lights on. I have to unplug them when I'm not driving it. I know the lights come on when it senses current. Looks like I need to install an on/off switch. Anyone else having this issue?
 
Doug, same tender issue for turning the lights on when connected to the tender. On off is in my future as well!

I have 2 issues with the Philips LED's. My battery keeps draining when I don't drive it for a while. When I plug my battery tender in it turns the lights on. I have to unplug them when I'm not driving it. I know the lights come on when it senses current. Looks like I need to install an on/off switch. Anyone else having this issue?
 

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