Mr. T TRE's vs GM (1 Viewer)

[SNLC]

Your setup looks very clean Johnny .. I'll take a look tomorrow with the 80 series pitman .. and see how it clears the frame .. if so.

BTW I want to replace ( well kinda need it ) the bracket attaching the ram assist to the rod ... if I can avoid the welding option, I've seen the ones that are adjusted by bolts .. are those up to the task ?

like this one ..



if Ruff Stuff have one still I didn't find it ..

Fox makes one, few others out there too. I couldn't find one that would work for me so I just made my own.

Cheers

 

[Tapage]

I don't think this one it's meant to hold with a ram piston ..

http://www.polyperformance.com/Synergy-Jeep-JK-Fox-Steering-Stabilizer-Tie-Rod-Clamp

 

[Tapage]

Couple a ruff days with the family under the weather .. but I'm getting back to this .. anyone here know if Marilin makes this for 1 Ton GM TRE's :?

https://www.marlincrawler.com/steering/high-steer/high-steer-kit-fj60

the upgraded 25mm bearing sounds tempting .. as many of you guys know .. while you are there.

 

[mcguirejohnson]

Couple a ruff days with the family under the weather .. but I'm getting back to this .. anyone here know if Marilin makes this for 1 Ton GM TRE's :?

https://www.marlincrawler.com/steering/high-steer/high-steer-kit-fj60

the upgraded 25mm bearing sounds tempting .. as many of you guys know .. while you are there.

I have marlins highsteer kit w/ the 25mm upgrade. It only comes with the FJ80 TREs.

I am upgrading to the 1-tons though and ruffstuff offers inserts for the knuckle arms and pittman arm that make it to where you only need a 7/8ths drill bit as opposed to a reamer to widen the holes.

 

[Tapage]

inserts for the knuckle arms and pittman arm that make it to where you only need a 7/8ths drill bit as opposed to a reamer to widen the holes.

you are going Y link or are you keeping your actual marlin setup .. ?

those inserts are suppose to be welded on the arm ?

Another option I'm paying atention it's the Luke from 4x4 Labs option ..

 

[mcguirejohnson]

you are going Y link or are you keeping your actual marlin setup .. ?

those inserts are suppose to be welded on the arm ?

Another option I'm paying atention it's the Luke from 4x4 Labs option ..

I am going to keep my marlin setup.

I think all you have to do is drill the arms, put the inserts in, and bolt up the TREs. I will let you know how it goes down when I do it!

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Are the inserts welded in or just a press fit? If they're welded, I'd be keen to ream out the tre tapers instead.

The reamer isn't that expensive.

 

[mcguirejohnson]

Are the inserts welded in or just a press fit? If they're welded, I'd be keen to ream out the tre tapers instead.

The reamer isn't that expensive.

I think they are pressed in, don't quote me on that though.

I might look into the reamer.

 

[White Stripe]

Keep in mind that if your are upgrading tie rods and steering arms you are moving the weak link. Personally I like having my steering arms as the weak link rather than the knuckles or the sector shaft. A snapped sector shaft or cracked knuckle on the trail is a tough field fix compared to a tweaked steering arm. With a tweaked steering arm you just reset the toe and replace the arm later. How did you bend your relay rod with ram assist? I would think the ram assist would take the pressure off of the relay rod.

 

[too tall]

GM 1 ton tie rods wear out much faster than toyota 80 series when you beat on them . I have both . I prefer 80 series ends . Toyota ones are the best but the 555 brand holds up pretty well . I only used the Moog 1 ton chevy ends but they wore out really quick . I have gone back to toyota ones .

 

[Tapage]

I have a lightly bend tie rod at the TRE end .. if you don't look closer you may never notice .. but I did and now the normal route seems to be upgrade the hole deal ..

 

[mcguirejohnson]

I have a lightly bend tie rod at the TRE end .. if you don't look closer you may never notice .. but I did and now the normal route seems to be upgrade the hole deal ..

I would upgrade if i were you. Makes sense to run 1-ton ends especially with the big tires that you have. I haven't heard any complaints from guys who have made the jump, just positive comments.

I am going to be installing mine once school is out, and will do a write-up on the process.

Do you already have the marlin crawler high-steer? or are you still running the stock setup?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

GM 1 ton tie rods wear out much faster than toyota 80 series when you beat on them . I have both . I prefer 80 series ends . Toyota ones are the best but the 555 brand holds up pretty well . I only used the Moog 1 ton chevy ends but they wore out really quick . I have gone back to toyota ones .

I've found the opposite is true, the 1 ton ends hold up better than the 80 series ends. I've been running the MOOG brand for a year and 12,000 road miles, in addition to beating the snot out of her off-road a half dozen or more times per year. Greasing them semi-regularly seems to help a bunch.

 

[Tapage]

Do you already have the marlin crawler high-steer? or are you still running the stock setup?

I have a home made redneck style hi steer right now .. at this point I'm fixed on GM 1 ton TRE's just need to make my mind in which hi steer I would like to run ..

And seems to be between just to options ..

or Marlin or 4x4 Labs ..

 

[Cruiserdrew]

4x4 Labs gets my vote of these 2. You can get custom bends to clear springs if needed

 

[Mace]

You guys know that they are not really "1 ton" ends right?

Also, I've seen the chevy ends last for a very long time.
Ream out the arms if you have the availability.
For hydro assist you really want the ram to attatch as close to an end of the Tie rod as you can get. Putting it in the middle of the Tie rod is a good way to bend the rod.
4x4 makes good stuff..
Don't worry about the sector shaft or knuckle breaking unless you are on fairly large tires. 40+" at which point you should be running a D60.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

You guys know that they are not really "1 ton" ends right?

Yup, that was a mis-use I didn't discover until I was putting my current steering setup together. The 2010R and 2010L ends that I used are really 3/4 ton ends. The actual one ton ends are significantly larger.

I believe that the 2027L and 2026R are actual one-ton ends:

To make sure everyone's clear, the 2010R/L ends are stronger IMHO than the 80 series TREs. As always, make sure whichever TREs you buy that they are greasable and that you grease them often.

 

[too tall]

The 2026 and the 2027 are the ones I used . I wonder if the operating range is less ? It seems to me the tie rod ones were okay just the drag link ones got really sloppy really quick .

 

[Tapage]

4x4 Labs gets my vote of these 2. You can get custom bends to clear springs if needed

I'm not sold in the tie rod behind the axle and then I would need to re do my ram mount .. nut a bid deal but additional work.

The real plus with Marlin setup are the 25mm bearings .. how many of you guys are running them ?

 

[Mace]

The 2026 and the 2027 are the ones I used . I wonder if the operating range is less ? It seems to me the tie rod ones were okay just the drag link ones got really sloppy really quick .

2026/2027 are high misalignment joints, but are very long.
The 2010 are much shorter (and stronger due to the shaft) but do not have as much misalignment.

So, general usage is to run the 2026/2027 on the Draglink and the 2010's (or ES2234) on the Tie rod.

BTW, those ends are 7/8x18 thread.